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Finally cured oil leak - front sealing block


hyperhale

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Having suffered from severe oil leaks from my mk4 spit I just had to shout about it.

Sump was leaking badly due to over tightening and distortion around the bolt holes along with the old favourite stripped sealing block threads.

In addition a further major leak from the front engine plate as the alloy sealing block was in a bad state, wasn't even straight along the front edge and had a rough finish - really strange....

The sealing block was also an early type with just one fixing hole through the front engine plate, again thread stripped and the engine plate was bent on the bottom corners.

I can thoroughly recommend the upgraded steel replacement sealing block from Jigsaw Racing for £32 , postage £10 as they use UPS next day courier however the postage cost was no more for posting a gasket set, front engine plate plus sump/ timing cover bolts and washers along with the block.

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Piero_franchi wrote:
thats the same problem I have on the spitfire Mk4 i bought last year to get me to la mans and back as Mine Mk2 is still undergoing a restoration.


was you able to remove this block fairly easy???


The block is accesible with the engine in situ once you  have removed the sump and is held in place with two large cheese head screws. However you will probably end up damaging the front engine plate gasket that it is fixed against possibly then causing a leak on the front engine plate so in my opinion ideally removing the front plate and renewing the gasket would be best.

The alloy sealing block on my mk4 had obviously already been changed at some point but rather badly and the bottom of the front plate gasket was completely missing contributing to the problems.

This is only my opinion and other more experienced owners may be able to comment on this

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Only problem part of swapping the sealing block is fitting those bloody wooden wedges.  All seem to be way over-sized so need a lot of fettling to fit, then you can't get the best of angles to chisle them flush.  Doesn't end up looking the best but done mine twice in-situ (once to replace the block/once to rebuild the bottom end) and not had any leaks.

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Mj17 wrote:
Only problem part of swapping the sealing block is fitting those bloody wooden wedges.  All seem to be way over-sized so need a lot of fettling to fit, then you can't get the best of angles to chisle them flush.  Doesn't end up looking the best but done mine twice in-situ (once to replace the block/once to rebuild the bottom end) and not had any leaks.

The latest kits have butyl rubber seals instead of wood and are easy to fit with a bit of shim steel betwen seal and block

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