Wont idle, only runs with choke - help

[danmull]

Hi, very new here with my first Acclaim, very cool car.

The car starts fine with lots of choke, but then wont settle to any kind of idle even after warming up.

I can juggle the choke so it 'idles' at about 2k but is a bit lumpy, you can hear from the exhaust that its missing a bit but not too much. If I put the choke in a bit and keep blipping the throttle I can bounce it around 1- 2k rpm.

I sprayed a bit of wd40 round the inlet manifold and it appeared to rev a bit higher, but I cant be 100%

I've had the carbs off and cleaned them, but they looked ok, and Ive fitted them back on, making doubly sure that everything is well sealed.

And it behaves exactly the same.

Does anyone have any advice as to what to look at next? Could it be related to ignition somehow?

[Toledo Man]

The ignition timing is 5 degrees BTDC for manual car and 12 degrees BTC for Trio-matic cars. There are 3 timing marks on the crankshaft pulley. From left to right they are 11 degrees BTDC, 5 degrees BTDC and TDC. It is best to check the ignition first and there's not much you can do apart from replacing all the parts (plugs, HT leads, dizzy cap & rotor arm) and the ignition timing. If you are local to me then I'd give you a hand. The condition of the spark plugs will tell you what the mixture is like. If the mixture is fine then the plugs should have a biscuit coloured deposit on them.

[danmull]

Thanks toledo man, plugs mainly tan, perhaps a bit pale, my car is the manual HLS, so I'll check timing tomorrow.

Don't suppose theres any set up instructions for these twin Keihin carbs anywhere  :)

Out of interest what should a typical fast idle be for a cold Acclaim and would you normally use full choke etc. Then roughly how long until it is fully warmed up? It would be really useful to know what to expect.

[ferny]

http://blueyed.explorationing.com/?p=362

[danmull]

Great thanks ferny, really useful.

Had a quick look with the timing strobe tonight, couldn't see any timing marks on the pully at all! Will give it a clean and a proper look tomorrow.

[danmull]

Well what do you know! I was testing the carbs - drove it on the road about 350m and it run out of petrol, so parked it up on a private business estate.

Went home to get petrol, and watch the rugby, go back to the car 6 hours later and its gone! Police took it :(

So its only worth £500, it doesn't idle very well, so i'm thinking give it up ? itl probably write the fucker off

Dan

[PhilT]

It was a  good game, great result - now bring on Italy!

The Acclaim is worth it. I'm assuming it was a private parking company. You weren't parked - you'd broken down - which you can prove

[Goody]

If you get your car back and still have the problem, check for a vacum leak.  If you don't have a guage you can try spraying a little cab cleaner around anywhere a leak could be.  If engine speeds up you found it.

[danmull]

Cheers Goody, I think I will go for recovery - most expensive game of rugby ever! Almost worth it :/ I should get it back tomorrow.

Tried that, also blocked any vacuum tubes with the filter off, and that helped a bit.

After it warmed up a bit and I blocked the hoses it would idle at 1200 rpm, I then detached the fuel cut out solenoid, and it made no difference what so ever, eve though you can hear it click.

So Im right in thinking, the solenoid could still be stuck, or more likely I didn't clean the carbs properly and the slow jet is blocked?

[danmull]

Recovered the car this morning, what a hassle :/ and £200!! So the business estate is categorised as public access. makes sense I suppose, very expensive mistake though. Bit of catch 22, wanted to see if I could fix the idle issue before deciding to keep the car, oh well fair cop i suppose.

Anyway I've stripped the carbs again and given the idle and bypass jets a proper going over, carb cleaner and air blow freely throught them - and confirmed the solenoid is clean and operating.

So I'll see how that goes once fitted tomorrow.

Quick question though does the vacuum advance tube come from the top of the float bowl?

[danmull]

All stripped and cleaned and refitted - runs almost perfectly, idles a bit fast and lumpy still.

Im not sure the vacuum hoses are routed right.

Also the crank pulley does not appear to have any timing marks, and has alloy style corrosion - white and powdery, did the Acclaim have an allow pulley, or is this an after market one?

[Goody]

I think you need to find where the vacuum advance should connect to the carb.  Normally it will be a tube that goes into the venturi of the carb.  

[danmull]

Thanks Goody, yes I would be very grateful if anyone could confirm that the vacuum advance tube should come from the top of the float bowl? I didn't check when the carbs were off if this external pipe was routed to the venturi or if it was perhaps a vent from the bowl to atmosphere?

EDIT - just thought - that should be easy to check by detecting any change in pressure on the end of the tube.

[ferny]

9054 wrote:

All stripped and cleaned and refitted - runs almost perfectly, idles a bit fast and lumpy still.

Im not sure the vacuum hoses are routed right.

Also the crank pulley does not appear to have any timing marks, and has alloy style corrosion - white and powdery, did the Acclaim have an allow pulley, or is this an after market one?

If I can I'll have a look later. I've never fiddled with the Acclaim carbs (luckily) but I know there are three hoses going up to the air box...

Pulley is cast alloy or some type. It should have three timing marks which are small grooves in the front edge of the pulley. Going clockwise, the first is yellow, (automatic 12 BTDC) the second red (manual 5 BTDC) and the thirds white (TDC).

[logicaluk]

hi there
have you got a Haynes manual? ive always used the carb set up from there. but it doesn't mention the vac pipes.
So;
there's a mk 1 or 2  variance  mk 1's had the vac take off from the passenger side carb instead of the manifold,
all have 3 vac pipes on the center, back of the manifold labeled 1,2,3 from the passenger carb ll have to check the car to be sure what goes where but
theres 2 pipes that go to the air cleaner 1 to the crank case vent/oil separator and 1 to the vacume valve for the air diverter. and the car runs like crap when you get them the wrong way round.
the other is ether to the vac advance or blocked off. the pipes are a pain in the but to get on and off with the air filter in place most acclaims ive seen are still running on )albeit slightly shortened) original pipes.
always give the vac pipes a twist with some pliers griped over the vac pipe on the manifold to unstick them if the have been undisturbed for a long while before you attempt to remove them, then, you can check for splits in the ends cut off the perished bit and pop it back on.
Dan

[logicaluk]

the crank pulley is made from sintered steel.ive got one with a trigger wheel bolted to it.
have you checked the vac advance isnt leaking gingers is shot so im microsquirting her.