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Hydraulic Clutch


Alex

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Alex wrote:
Tilton coaxial clutch?
What's that in english?


You throw away the actuating arm, clutch fork lever, bearing carrier etc and fit a modern hydraulic release which works directly on the clutch plate, so no friction, or lost motion in bearings and forks etc, and no breaking pin!

Transforms the clutch, makes it lighter and smoother, and they don't tend to break again - this is the second time I have had to attend to the stag clutch mechanism.

not again ever.

I have one on the 5, they are great.

mike





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Alex wrote:
How easy/expensive is that to do Mike?


If you buy the bits yourself, and get an adapter for the mounting made up, £200 - £250 or a lot more from the triumph suppliers. The mechanism comes out of modern cars, you just need the pipes, and a mounting block to fit to the input shaft housing.

mike

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a little Googling reveals http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/mondeo-clutch-slave-cylinder-99-to-05-genuine-ford_W0QQitemZ220502170959QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item3356f41d4f

and

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MONDEO-GALAXY-CLUTCH-SLAVE-CYLINDER_W0QQitemZ260412364217QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item3ca1c955b9

Both for the 5 speed so perhaps such things aren't as rare as I thought.

Ahh - found a 6 speed one http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ford-MONDEO-CLUTCH-release-bearing-SLAVE-CYLINDER-6SPD_W0QQitemZ370231061093QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item56337daa65

that said I know naff all about these other than as long as they are hydraulic and you can mount them then you're in with a chance of making it work - oh and you would have to match the master cylinder to it too :-) Other than that, it's a easy - well after you've taken the gearbox out.

I'll get me coat  :P

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Jason wrote:
a little Googling reveals http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/mondeo-clutch-slave-cylinder-99-to-05-genuine-ford_W0QQitemZ220502170959QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item3356f41d4f

and

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MONDEO-GALAXY-CLUTCH-SLAVE-CYLINDER_W0QQitemZ260412364217QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item3ca1c955b9

Both for the 5 speed so perhaps such things aren't as rare as I thought.

Ahh - found a 6 speed one http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ford-MONDEO-CLUTCH-release-bearing-SLAVE-CYLINDER-6SPD_W0QQitemZ370231061093QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item56337daa65

that said I know naff all about these other than as long as they are hydraulic and you can mount them then you're in with a chance of making it work - oh and you would have to match the master cylinder to it too :-) Other than that, it's a easy - well after you've taken the gearbox out.

I'll get me coat  :P


Bit of thread drift here, if there's enough interest in this subject can we move or restart it in the Stag or 2000 section?

mike

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You need to be a little careful in the choice of slave cylinder. The internal diameter needs to be large enough to fit over the input flange in the gearbox, and the cylinder needs an internal spring to pull the bearing back when the clutch is released.

I think I got my last unit from from Burton Engineering. You then need a mount machined up to allow 1mm clearance between the release bearing and the existing clutch cover plate.

The existing slave cylinder will be fine - there's a lot less pedal effort with this arrangement anyway because there is so much reduction in friction from the original triumph setup. However you do need to fit an adjustable pedal stop to the clutch pedal, because there is nothing to stop you pushing the pedal too far, and either damaging the clutch release plate, or poping the release cylinder apart past its maximum travel.

If there's enough interest I could ask the machine shop to make a few adapters, you could then buy the release mechanism and flexible pipes direct. The pipes and fittings are metric, so if you have an old saloon you may need to get the slave cylinder pipe changed or modified AF to metric.

I'll get prices for the pipes and clutch release next week and post them up here.

mike

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shenderson wrote:
Most moderns have a simalar arrangement, but if the hydraulics go (and they do) it's a gearbox out job.  Admittedly much easier on a Triumph than most wrong wheel drive moderns.

Steve H


I will say that I have had far more cross shaft pins fail in Triumphs, than I have ever had hydraulics fail in the my companies modern fleet of vauxhalls over the past 20 years.

Its 5 pin failures to 0 hydraulics to date, and the moderns average 50k per annum

Cost wise to replace all the actuating components in a Triumph is about £150, a tilton 400 series release with pipes is listed at £150 plus vat by Competition Supplies, so the additional cost  is mainly the adapter plate.

mike

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I am getting a number of pm's on this subject so to update everyone the current state of progress is this:-

A 400 series release bearing should land with me tomorrow.

I will then take this and a spare gearbox down to my local machine shop and see if I can get a price sorted out for the mounting.

The current plan, because the 400 mounts via bolt holes into the bell housing, is to have a thin flat plate made up, which locates behind the gearbox input shaft flange (so will require 2 gaskets), and this plate will have 4 studs onto which the 400 mounts. This will ensure concentric mounting of the release mechanism.

The release will need to be spaced away from the clutch pressure plate by 4 to 5 mm if you have a new clutch, less with a part worn one (as the plates wear the clutch release fingers move out away from the engine).  So its a question of measuring the distance from the clutch release plate to the engine mounting plate and (assuming a new clutch) adding 5mm to the measurement.

The release bearing then needs spacing in the bellhousing this distance back from the front of the bell housing. Washers or made up spacers can be used on the studs to mount the clutch release at the correct distance.

Note if the distance is too small, as the clutch plate wears, you may tend to get clutch slip, because the release bearing will not be able to move far enough back.

mike

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I got the tilton kit today, I need to cut the "nose" off the input shaft housing, and then have an adapter machined so that the adapter uses the 4 bolt holes, and the tilton unit can be bolted to the adapter.

Typically I cannot get the fork out of this gearbox as the pin is sheared !!

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  • 2 weeks later...

1158 wrote:
Did you ever get this amazing contraption to work? :-/


I have one working in my 5, and I know lots of TR owners with them.

I just need a little time to drop the gearbox in my Stag - a bit of dry weather as the garage is full!

I have sorted out how to mount these without a special plate, and was going to post all the details togetehr when I do the job

mike

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