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Herald steering column UJ query


oldbury863

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My Herald has noticeable play in the flexible joint where the column connects to the rack. 'Proper' UJ's are now sold as an upgrade to the original FAM1718 joint but I read that a 'forged' type is even better, under the number 145377. Suppliers however, only seem to list the 145377 for fitment to 2000's and TR's. Does the forged type actually fit a Herald or do I need to use the cheaper pressed steel version? 

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1 hour ago, oldbury863 said:

'Proper' UJ's are now sold as an upgrade to the original FAM1718 joint

They're not necessarily an actual upgrade. The original coupling, in good nick, is very good - better than a cheap UJ.

What is the actual problem with yours? Where is the play? They are serviceable (I did the one on my Spitfire, which was quite tired) and the only bit that normally needs replacing are the rubber grommets on the four bolts that attach the two clamps to the disc. I believe poly bush ones are available.

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Thanks for the reply Rob, but you've made my decision harder now! Its been many many years since I had my previous Herald as a daily driver and I suppose we've all got used to modern cars with their power steering and servo brakes etc but driving my current Herald has disappointed me in that there is quite noticeable free play in the steering. Although I'm well aware that the design dates back to 1959, the Herald has aways been praised for it's precise steering and I think it was also used on the Lotus Elan but I may be wrong. In my quest to get my Herald as good as it can be, I have been right through the suspension, checked the wheel bearings, and fitted solid rack mounts etc, but visible play can be seen in the column joint where those bushes are. I was of the opinion that the Triumph's original choice of joint was purely down to cost and that even a cheap UJ would be an improvement on anything that relies on small rubber bushes? Unfortunately, like many others I have been victim to some of the extremely poor quality rubber components that are being sold these days, some only lasting a matter of months before starting to decompose! I would consider polybushes as an alternative to a UJ but I don't actually know of any suppliers however.

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The rubber bushes in that coupling really are too small to allow significant ("visible") play. The only time I've had bad steering play from one was on my Toledo, when one of the bolts fell out! It's all too easy to blame everything on cost cutting but in this case, the standard coupling provides a robust solution with better NVH characteristics than a cheap UJ. It does need decent rubber or poly bits, though.

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1 hour ago, oldbury863 said:

Thanks for the reply Rob, but you've made my decision harder now! Its been many many years since I had my previous Herald as a daily driver and I suppose we've all got used to modern cars with their power steering and servo brakes etc but driving my current Herald has disappointed me in that there is quite noticeable free play in the steering. Although I'm well aware that the design dates back to 1959, the Herald has aways been praised for it's precise steering and I think it was also used on the Lotus Elan but I may be wrong. In my quest to get my Herald as good as it can be, I have been right through the suspension, checked the wheel bearings, and fitted solid rack mounts etc, but visible play can be seen in the column joint where those bushes are. I was of the opinion that the Triumph's original choice of joint was purely down to cost and that even a cheap UJ would be an improvement on anything that relies on small rubber bushes? Unfortunately, like many others I have been victim to some of the extremely poor quality rubber components that are being sold these days, some only lasting a matter of months before starting to decompose! I would consider polybushes as an alternative to a UJ but I don't actually know of any suppliers however.

I could write a page or 2 on this....

1. New std type couplings fail quickly.

2. Some of teh forged, and probably pressed, UJ cpuplings are also poor. I had a brand new one that was worse than the one I was going to replace.

3. Chris Witor sells a quality forged coupling. It will fit, but be careful of bolt lengths and rack alignement as it is very close.

4. If your coupling is wired, or NOT got crimped ends on the bolts, you can successfully recondition it with a set of polybush from Mr Witor. That is what I currently have on my spitfire, and previously ran a Herald everyday for 10? years with one, that was fine when I sold the car. Can happily recommend. 

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I can tell you that the coupling for the RS type competition Escorts fit perfectly and should obviously be more than capable. I was given one by a friend who builds Ford based hot rod things with stupidly overpowered engines and very chunky running gear. They are not that expensive either. Mine has been in use in my Spitfire for years now and is as new.

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12 hours ago, sparky_spit said:

I can tell you that the coupling for the RS type competition Escorts fit perfectly and should obviously be more than capable. I was given one by a friend who builds Ford based hot rod things with stupidly overpowered engines and very chunky running gear. They are not that expensive either. Mine has been in use in my Spitfire for years now and is as new.

I also fitted the same. Easy to fit and made a big difference to the staring. 

Danny

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On 12/09/2022 at 08:31, Dannyb said:

I also fitted the same. Easy to fit and made a big difference to the staring. 

Danny

That's a thumbs up for the Group 4 rally Escort item from me as well. Very happy to have replaced the lower rubber coupling on my 4A column with one of these years ago. No play at all and no transmission of road shock to the steering wheel. I retained the upper rubber coupling, which probably assists in this regards or ]. Try www.burtonpower.com , www.carbuilder.com or www.rallydesign.co.uk

Tim

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