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New acquisition


Shynsy

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Just acquired a new member of my garage. A 72 spit to match my 72 TR6 and 72 Stag. After sorting a fuel mixture issue. Was running weak on AAN needles with a free flow airfilter. Changed to AAQ and mixture looks a lit better. I am thinking of a few gentle upgrades. The aim of the purchase is to get my 20yo son into classics and the dream is for him to do the RBRR sometime in the future. Thinking of some gentle upgrades to help performance a tad. Thinking free flow manifold and suspension rebush. But am also wondering about replacing the 3 rail gearbox with a single rail with overdrive. Good move? Or should I go 3 rail with overdrive? Any other thoughts on gentle upgrades?

Car is very original so nothing outrageous or irreversible. 

Cheers

Tim

20231111_171515.jpg

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Tim,

Depends how far you wish to go with it?

J type Overdrive gearbox would be the first job.

Then suspension and brakes:

Suspension: Superflex bushes,Konis,Slightly shorter front springs,Uprated ARB links

Brakes: Rebuild them and fit a good pad material.

Power increase last!

This site is good: https://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/

A Spitty that handles is a marvellous car and as you have stated a great way to get into old cars.

Good luck.

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As far as overdrive gearboxes go the single rail is more robust having both the larger synchro rings and bigger mainshaft tip arrangement plus a gear change mechanism that is less prone to wear. However they are an inch longer than the 3 rail OD and some dont like the operation of the gear change as much as the earlier design...

In the end it probably comes down to whatever you can get at a reasonable price (dont forget to factor in all the ancilliary components) and then the cost of it checking/overhauling it. With this last point maybe getting the overdrive version of your current unit would be sensible as then there might be components you can use if needed...

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I had a chat with MIke Papworth at the NEC last weekend, he is still making conversion units. I am amazed that there is still a market for them.

Must say, I rather the three rail change, in a Spittie I found the change to be very good. Single rail I used in the 1500 an ex had, always felt clumsy in comparison.

2 supplers are either Mike P or Paul Hughes of 2Spec near Solihul. Dave Pearson may have some core though.

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On 19/11/2023 at 12:42, Tim Bancroft said:

I had a chat with MIke Papworth at the NEC last weekend, he is still making conversion units. I am amazed that there is still a market for them.

Must say, I rather the three rail change, in a Spittie I found the change to be very good. Single rail I used in the 1500 an ex had, always felt clumsy in comparison.

2 supplers are either Mike P or Paul Hughes of 2Spec near Solihul. Dave Pearson may have some core though.

I had a single rail on my first spit and it seems a lot less waggly than my 3 rail. Perhaps it needs new bushes?

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Ok good to know. I have bought the Canley classics rebush kit.. people have advised me it is the best. A project for the winter months. Another thing I have uncovered is the main beam warning light not appearing when main beam is on. Deeper investigation showed that the the bulb is working but it is not illuminating the jewel on the speedo. Guess something is in the way in the guage. Anyone had this before?

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One thing with spares is that nowadays for many items, due to lack of demand, only one manufacturer makes them (probably in the far east) and so all the stockist are selling the same thing although of course at different prices!

Just changed all my indicator lights (except ign) to LED and far better in daylight but havent checked at night yet. For your main beam indicator looks like youll have to get the speedo out of the dash and have a look inside from the back...

 

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1 hour ago, glang said:

One thing with spares is that nowadays for many items, due to lack of demand, only one manufacturer makes them (probably in the far east) and so all the stockist are selling the same thing although of course at different prices!

Just changed all my indicator lights (except ign) to LED and far better in daylight but havent checked at night yet. For your main beam indicator looks like youll have to get the speedo out of the dash and have a look inside from the back...

 

Last I heard Canleys made their own kits up as they were not happy with the quality of the available kits. The nylon ball seems to be the main issue these days. ( so don't ever throw a decent one away)

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Its where to get the bits from as its so expensive to get them produced in such limited numbers and then convince customers theyre worth the extra. Wonder if Canley just 'fettle' the parts that are already available which would be more economically viable....

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2 hours ago, glang said:

Its where to get the bits from as its so expensive to get them produced in such limited numbers and then convince customers theyre worth the extra. Wonder if Canley just 'fettle' the parts that are already available which would be more economically viable....

No its not like that at all!

We regularly buy in the tat kits sold elsewhere, made down to a price abroad, to check to see if things have improved. Meanwhile we soldier on having everything in our kits made individually within a 30 odd mile radius of here. That way if issues arise we can sort it usually face to face with the manufacturer.

Also believe it or not, our kits are still cheaper than some of the competition.

No need to guess on here regarding product knowledge on this sort of thing, just ask.

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Ok so still not 100% happy with the way the car is running. AFR says it is running too rich at wide open throttle and it feels a bit "fluffy" at full throttle. So decided to change the plugs which were really sooty and are not a make I have come across. New set of NGKs fitted and needles swapped back to AAN. Used the AFR to set idle mixture and went for a drive. Feels much crisper. Mixture at full throttle is now a little lean. I adjusted idle a little richer to help a little. Still not perfect mixture at full throttle. But much better. Going to leave it as is for now. (Famous last words. )  Might see if there is a needle between the 2..

Tim 

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1 hour ago, Clive said:

http://www.mintylamb.co.uk/suneedle/

ABT maybe? Or take a file to the needles.

The trouble is that the needles move down under acceleration, so you are working with a number of variables. The spring and damper oil will affect mixture under acceleration. 

Thanks have been playing with the minty lamb site. Very helpful.  Will check out ABT. 

Tim

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35 minutes ago, Shynsy said:

Looks like it would work (see below).

I am going to drive the car this weekend to see how it feels and do some logging of some acceleration runs before shelling out cash 🙂

Tim

needle comparison.jpg

ABT are std 1500 needles, so somebody may have some they can lend you to try? 

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