Dannyb Posted November 20, 2023 Share Posted November 20, 2023 I am rebuilding the original 1500 engine for my Spit. Last week i got the block and crankshaft back from the engineering shop. Block has now been painted and new core plugs fitted. I'm about to refit the crank. My first question is, should there be washers on the main bearing bolts. Rimmers and Haynes books show washers. But my workshop manual shows none. I would have thought when I took the engine out 16 years ago I would have kept the washers with the bolts when I refitted the mains caps back on the block before storing it. Maybe the only the pre 1500 engines had them. Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yorkshire_spam Posted November 20, 2023 Share Posted November 20, 2023 I didn't use any washers when I built my engine - you had me wondering, so I just checked the photos from my build - no washers on the mains. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparky_spit Posted November 21, 2023 Share Posted November 21, 2023 Agreed, no washers under the mains cap bolts. I just went and checked the half built 1500 on the stand in the shed. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannyb Posted November 21, 2023 Author Share Posted November 21, 2023 Crankshaft back in today. The 2 Thrust washers supplied by the machine shop were spot on. The new pistons next which have already been gapped and fitted to each piston by the shop. So much easier like this. It will then have to sit until after Christmas when I get time to remove the old engine. Danny 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannyb Posted January 31 Author Share Posted January 31 Just waiting now for my mate to bring over the engine hoist. I have removed everything so just needs lifting out. Meanwhile I've taken the unleaded head off to clean and regrind valves, but found a problem. The person that did the unleaded conversion fitted the valve guides too far into the Chamber's. According to the workshop manual they are about 1/4 inch too deep. This must have been causing a restriction to the inlet and exhaust ports. Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannyb Posted January 31 Author Share Posted January 31 I've now removed the old valve guides and waiting for new ones to arrive. I'm toying with the idea to get the head skimmed to raise compression. On the head calc guide on a standard engine and standard UK head it calculates 30.1 thou to get it to 9.5 .2.1. Am I waisting .y time or stick with 9.2.1 Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yorkshire_spam Posted January 31 Share Posted January 31 1 hour ago, Dannyb said: I've now removed the old valve guides and waiting for new ones to arrive. I'm toying with the idea to get the head skimmed to raise compression. On the head calc guide on a standard engine and standard UK head it calculates 30.1 thou to get it to 9.5 .2.1. Am I waisting .y time or stick with 9.2.1 Danny Unless the head needs a skim I wouldn't bother for that amount of difference. I measured the chamber volume on my head (it had some chamber work as well as porting/flowing) and took mine up to 10.2:1 which was as far as I wanted to go with that engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannyb Posted January 31 Author Share Posted January 31 I have ported the head to match the gasket and smoothed out the ports rough castings. I expect with the new valve stems fitted correctly this time and not restricting the ports , it will make a difference. Danny 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannyb Posted February 14 Author Share Posted February 14 Took delivery of a billet steel front sealing block as the old alloy one which I helicoiled the threads some years ago had failed. Hope to get the engine ready for fitting tomorrow. I have been waiting for a payen head gasket from Rimmers for nearly 4 weeks on back order. I'll probably buy a cheaper one especially with the rumours they aren't what they used to be. Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve P Posted February 17 Share Posted February 17 Info on another thread about modern (Belgian) Payen having the fire rings way too small and failing quickly. Canleys only sell good ones to the right spec. S 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannyb Posted February 20 Author Share Posted February 20 Original engine is now back in car minus the head. New Payen gasket ready for tomorrow thanks to yorshire_spam. What I have found out by using a dial test indicator on the piston top, is TDC is 2 degrees out with the timing cover marks. Danny 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannyb Posted February 20 Author Share Posted February 20 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannyb Posted March 9 Author Share Posted March 9 Been busy fitting my daughters new kitchen. But today I've been given the day off, so back on the spity engine. Its running and sounds good after a carb and timing adjustment. Need to get the bonnet and bumper on. I will hopefully get some millage on it and re-torq the head. Then book it in on a rolling road for a proper tune up. Danny 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannyb Posted Sunday at 13:48 Author Share Posted Sunday at 13:48 (edited) Nearly 500 miles clocked up on new engine. All seem to be good and quiet. Now need to find time to re torque head and change oil and filter. Will then book it in for a rolling road tune. Danny Edited Sunday at 13:49 by Dannyb 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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