Straight Six Posted May 11, 2007 Share Posted May 11, 2007 On the rear trunnion of a rotoflex car, when the suspension moves, should the bolt turn in the metal sleeve or the metal sleeve turn in the bush?I only ask as I've always assumed the bolt turned in the sleeve, but I've got a new trunnion kit and the bolt is a very tight fit in the metal sleeve, but the metal sleeve turns freely in the plastic bush. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heraldcoupe Posted May 11, 2007 Share Posted May 11, 2007 The sleeve is clamped rigidly as the bolt is tightened. the entire assembly then pivots inside the bush,Cheers,Bill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straight Six Posted May 11, 2007 Author Share Posted May 11, 2007 Thanks!!The bush I'm removing from the car is rubber. I assme that the plastic item is just a modern replacement? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk2vitesses Posted May 15, 2007 Share Posted May 15, 2007 I've fitted poly bushes to the new setup, glad I put lots of copper grease on the bolts!!Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Bancroft Posted May 15, 2007 Share Posted May 15, 2007 I always thought that the nylon parts are what were specified as OE?Cannot see the point of poly bushes here, surely the joint should be solid? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted May 15, 2007 Share Posted May 15, 2007 I think its a very hard Polyurethane Tim.As hard as the nylon, but longer lasting! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk2vitesses Posted May 15, 2007 Share Posted May 15, 2007 The poly bush I think is incidental, the bushes I have fitted b4 were very hard. The overall benefit is it will not seize up, due to the stainless steel sleeve poly bush combination.I never understood why repro parts had to duplicate the errors / cost cuts made in manufacturing.Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Bancroft Posted May 15, 2007 Share Posted May 15, 2007 Surely regular maintenance nullifies the need for s/s sleeves. How much for a polybush set up- bet they are dear? Yep £41.00ish against £29.00ish. I cannot see the point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk2vitesses Posted May 15, 2007 Share Posted May 15, 2007 I'll let you know in time, the old setup would have been a lot better if the bits were stainless steel, the extra cost is minimal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk2vitesses Posted May 15, 2007 Share Posted May 15, 2007 How often do you take your rotoflex rear wishbone off to check the trunnions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Bancroft Posted May 15, 2007 Share Posted May 15, 2007 I was under the impression that you don't need to take the couplings off to check the joint. Must be worth taking it apart every couple of 1,000 miles to lube the joint. Copperslip? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heraldcoupe Posted May 15, 2007 Share Posted May 15, 2007 I've never struggled to part a suspension joint which I had assembled myself, even after many years. Copious use of copperslip is hardly a complex or expensive approach. Steel bolts running inside stainless bushes are still going to be vulnerable to bimetallic corrosion, so copperslip will still be necessary.Cheers,Bill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk2vitesses Posted May 15, 2007 Share Posted May 15, 2007 I built mine up with grease nipples on both bolt holes, it was assembled with a mix of copper slip and CV joint grease.I had not touched it since 1999, it all came apart no problem, however, the trunnion dust / water shields were rotten, the steel sleeve was rusty.Had those parts (which you can't paint) been stainless, I could have put it all back. Poly bushes are not cheap, the ones I fitted in 1999 are still good, so I thought what the hell sod the expense!Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted May 15, 2007 Share Posted May 15, 2007 I had the opposite problem last week, dismantling someoneelses handy work who hadn't used lube!Lets just say I'm keeping Comma in business putting it back together! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heraldcoupe Posted May 15, 2007 Share Posted May 15, 2007 [quote by=mk2vitesses link=Blah.pl?b=hervit,m=1178881475,s=12 date=1179266935]I built mine up with grease nipples on both bolt holes, [/quote]Pardon my ignorance, I have little to do with Rotoflex cars, but how does this get grease between the bolt and tube? Do you have additional cross drilling through the tube?Cheers,Bill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk2vitesses Posted May 15, 2007 Share Posted May 15, 2007 Aah I remember oxy torch, hammer, hacksaw, I got quite good at it in the end. Lets face it, until somebody who cares gets hold of one of our cars, the concept of maintenance is a swear word.I still think some of the bits that are subject to water, salt etc could be remade using better materials.If Triumph were making cars today, they would have evolved, corrosion protection, suspension durability, would all have had to be improved.I take the view, if I am going to work on part of the car, can I make it better, more reliable, safer! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk2vitesses Posted May 15, 2007 Share Posted May 15, 2007 There is always a slight gap, grease guns produce quite high pressure, the total lack of any corrosion to the bolt or vertical link would suggest it worked.I had heard so many stories about seized bolts, I thought it worth a go! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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