Rust Restorer Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 Someone on here was having trouble with excessive halfshaft end play. Did they cure it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beans Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 Does this mean you still haven't solved your problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rust Restorer Posted January 28, 2012 Author Share Posted January 28, 2012 It's doing bearings at the rate every 1500 miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raider Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 It was Burnerboy - I am not sure if it was cured or not :-/I'll check at the Pendle and Pennine meeting on Friday if I remember Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Flexney Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 Yes it was Burnerboy and no he did not fix it.Which back axle do you have in? I am presuming the 5 speed one as the old 4 speed axle is easier to adjust.AndyF Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rust Restorer Posted January 29, 2012 Author Share Posted January 29, 2012 Thanks, I remember a phone call from a p&p member. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rust Restorer Posted January 29, 2012 Author Share Posted January 29, 2012 AndyF wrote:Yes it was Burnerboy and no he did not fix it.Which back axle do you have in? I am presuming the 5 speed one as the old 4 speed axle is easier to adjust.AndyF5 speed, no adjustment possible as far as I know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beans Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 Rust_Restorer wrote:It's doing bearings at the rate every 1500 miles.mmm ... makes me wonder as I do have two spare bearing kits (from Robsport) which I planned to put in somewhere this year :-/Maybe better to use some original and hardly used second hand halfshafts that have been lying around fro ages. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burnerboy Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 I have only just come across this thread, and as Andy rightly says it was me and I (we) have not found a cure. I have a further set of bearings to mess about with and we were going to faff about with the old set (various shims etc.) before committing the new ones to the shaft.As memory serves we were getting as much as 1.4mm float which no amount of shimming removed. This is what prompted much discussion of WHERE the shims should be placed and that is what we shall be looking at in future. We had been shimming up the bearing outer race in the axle to move it outward (away from the diff) in an attempt to take up the float but no matter how much we shimmed it the play remained, it really is very strange.I have thought that the next step will be (as hinted at above), to pull the bearing off the half shaft and shim behind it, effectively moving it towards the diff and seeing how that goes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beans Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 Can anyone give me the dimensions/numbers/manufacturer of the bearings asupplied in the kits?That way I can check them against the originals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rust Restorer Posted January 30, 2012 Author Share Posted January 30, 2012 Burnerboy, you shimmed behind the outer bearing race, exactly as I did on Sunday with no effect. I had previously discussed this with suppliers, who took a new set of halfshaft, fitted the bearings and tried it in axles on their premises and found no excessive end float. They where then sent to me and I fitted into axle, with perhaps similar endfloat to yours. Now though the end float is approx 3mm after approx 1500 miles. I presume with this much end float the needle rollers run down in the outer race, with not all rollers in contact with outer race causing uneven wear. I cant see much sign of wear in the rollers or race, however there was trace of very fine metallic particles in the grease.To answer Beans question: As part of the above transaction I seemed to aquire a spare set of bearings from supplier. The box for these shows no sign of origin or maker exept for Kit 028 and a label stuck on saying GHK1028. This is a Rimmers part number, I suspect all Triumph suppliers buy their stock from Rimmers at cost price.The only sign of any markings on the bearings is on the outer race - U281L - The collars contained in this kit do not have the original rebate for the circlip.When I originally bought bearings way back from Robsport, and both cars had these, they where by County bearings and lasted a long while.I suspected at the time that those sold today where remanufactured somewhere, I also thought the outer seal was at fault, it certainly looks different to the original ones. If smaller in depth this would affect endfloat.I will bring my verniers home tommorow and take some measurements. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Flexney Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 I had also thought about the oil seal being too small but dismissed it as being too soft to stop movement. But any packing would have to be in the same position as the oil seal.AndyF Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beans Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 Looking at the cross section of the half shaft you can see that the retaining collar keeps the bearing's inner track in the correct position on the half shaft.The (strengthened) outer oil seal with the retaining plate is there to keep everything in place in the axle casing.So there are three possible causes I can come up with;1. The retaining collar, the manual states that you need a force of at least 3 Tons to slide it in place. If the quality of these is poor they might move, resulting in more play.2. The outer oil seal is incorrect, giving th esame result;3. The bearing is fitted the wrong way 'round (so with the taper pointing outwards) ... :oI have a few kits I got from RobSport, and are from Automotive Bearings Ltd They all have Timken bearings, and the correct (looking) retaining collar (with groove for circlip) and oil seal.But will make a mental note to check them against the originals once I need to replace them ::) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rust Restorer Posted January 31, 2012 Author Share Posted January 31, 2012 Brought the digital verniers home, but battery dead. Special batteries not sold in local garage. Try to get some tommorow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rust Restorer Posted February 1, 2012 Author Share Posted February 1, 2012 Theo, Would be nice if you could compare these sizes against original bearings when you have a few spare minutes.Thanks in advance.See attached Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Flexney Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 1) Retaining collar was difficult to get on and off. Over 10 tons had to be used. So that was okay. Also it is held in place by the circlip so cannot really move anywhere. Interesting is that the replacement Burnerboy used did not have a recess for the circle[p and it butted up to a ‘flat’ retaining collar.2) I did not realise the outer oil seal is “strengthened” but if it is and according to the diagram from Rust Restorer it is an important component. 3) Might happen MMy suggestion would be the bearings supplied are not deep enough to stop the movement i.e. take up the end play. It will be interesting to see what the comparison tells us.AndyF Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beans Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 Have measured one of the bearing kits I have in stock;• Retaining collar overal 17.0mm (including groove which is 3.9mm deep);• Bearings outer track measures 17,05mm;• Bearings inner track measures 20,57mm;• Outer oil seal measures 10,1mm over the steel outside;(No spacer supplied and never seen one)Will see if I can get at one of the halfshafts in the not to distant future to check th eabove measurements. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Flexney Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 looks like the bearing size is okay but the oil seal seems to be too small.Anyone got the inside measurement for the axle tube and the diameter of the halfshft where the oil seal sits so we can start searching for thicker oil seals.AndyF Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rust Restorer Posted February 2, 2012 Author Share Posted February 2, 2012 Thanks Theo, Measurements seem to tie up, is your outer race in one piece or made up of two pieces, ie:- the main outer race and what I have called the spacer, which easily comes adrift from the bearing? These add up to 17.5mm.Metal to metal on the oil seal is 9.47mm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beans Posted February 3, 2012 Share Posted February 3, 2012 Rust_Restorer wrote: ... is your outer race in one piece or made up of two pieces, ie:- the main outer race and what I have called the spacer ... Outer race feels like one but looks like two pieces, I took the total measurement Pictures of the kit I have used for measurement below (inner seal not shown) ...Have to admit that it's been a very long time since I last renewed these bearings.Hopefully will be able to have a look at a set of spare half shafts next week,but at the moment it is to cold to work on the cars ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rust Restorer Posted February 3, 2012 Author Share Posted February 3, 2012 Thanks for pics Theo, looking pretty much like mine, exept for retainer which has not the recess and should not affect endplay as it is driven right home. I think the only way to cure endplay is to shim between oil seal and retainer plate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beans Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 Rust_Restorer wrote: ... Must be Chinese or Indian crap! gotta keep my eye on Ebay for NOS bearings ... I source my bearings straight through an SKF dealer (added bonus is that they were able to supply the correct oil seals too).Not the cheapest route but you get what you pay for :) SKF numbers are;• Inner bearing (GHB101): L44649/610/Q;• Outer bearing (GHB 107): LM11749/710/Q.And make sure you tighten the bearings up properly.After fitting new bearings tighten up the nut till the hub is locked.Than back off the nut till the hub moves freely and without play. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rust Restorer Posted April 15, 2012 Author Share Posted April 15, 2012 Thanks Theo, will try to source some skf bearings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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