Matt306 Posted May 10, 2017 Share Posted May 10, 2017 I am trying to source 3/8 bolts for the flanges on my herald propshaft (i have larger flanges due to 3.89 diff and Overdrive). They are 7/8 in length and 3/8 in diameter. I am damned if i can find any online with a 5/16 shaft or any shaft. I know I can buy from Canley , Paddocks or Rimmers, but surely someone must supply these guys. Anyone have a good nut and bolt supplier they can give me? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted May 10, 2017 Share Posted May 10, 2017 I don't understand what you mean about the 5/16 shaft??But Namricks in Brighton have just about any bolt (as do most fasteber suppliers)However, in recent years I have bought off ebay, taking care to get the correct spec. In this case you want 8.8 or higher. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt306 Posted May 10, 2017 Author Share Posted May 10, 2017 Sorry shaft = length ... poor wording on my part. Looked at namrics earlier couldn't find any. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted May 11, 2017 Share Posted May 11, 2017 Ah, I think I understand now. All you are finding are setscrews? (fully threaded)The other issue I have had in the past is the nuts. Many of teh nylocs are thicker than the oe type on the prop fixings. Triumph suppliers do get them correct though.I had to get some bolts when I fitted my scooby diff. Amazingly they use 8mm bolts (5/16 near enough)so herald size. This worried me, and being tight and not wanting to fork out a fortune at a scoby g=dealer, I used cap-head bolts which are 12.9 rated. But to get a long enough unthreaded shank I had to buy oversize bolts, and cut some of the threads off. Luckily Namricks are literally down the road, so |I could go and measure up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny-Jimbo Posted May 11, 2017 Share Posted May 11, 2017 Surely if you use a harder bolt than standard (12.9 rather than 8., and do them to the same torque setting then they're more likely to come loose as the bolt will have a different elongation etc? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt306 Posted May 11, 2017 Author Share Posted May 11, 2017 Think I'll just go to paddocks and stop being tight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 M Posted May 12, 2017 Share Posted May 12, 2017 get yer sell to an agricultural engineers,or farmer mart spotthey always have loadsa unf stuff inand in oors, ive seen prop bolts tooM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nang Posted May 12, 2017 Share Posted May 12, 2017 Now I know why I don't throw any of my bolts away. Having dismantled quite a few Triumphs over the years. (eek) Tony. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted May 12, 2017 Share Posted May 12, 2017 Interesting points.I am intrigued about the ARP big end I bolts I recently fitted to a Zetec. The torque settings were only 25ft-lbs,really low (that is using the ARP lube)And the ARP bolts are a really high spec. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt306 Posted May 13, 2017 Author Share Posted May 13, 2017 Quoted from Spitfire6 Hi, If i fitted 12.9 instead of 8.8, I would torque them more. Fitting a 12.9 at the same torque as a 8.8 just don't make sense?Elongation points are different as you say. Nylok fastener/friction fastener will come loose? I used to teach about bolt tensioning for a few years and this is a question that was never asked or thought about. Just strength the bolt to its maximum torque.Cheers,Iain. Theres a lesson on bolt mentioning? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hogie Posted May 13, 2017 Share Posted May 13, 2017 Hi Folks, the torque loading is also determined by the materials being held together, type of bolt, locking mechanism etc.You wouldn't tighten down a decent steel bolt to a very high load if holding Aluminium plates together.You wouldn't necessarily need to use a high torque when using spring washersLots of permutations. Roger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny-Jimbo Posted May 15, 2017 Share Posted May 15, 2017 Spring washers don't help hold stuff together - in fact, the opposite. You're trying to clamp together a collapsible/flexible part of an assembly, so it's just going to give - essentially you'll get joint decompression and self loostening because of it.NOT in every case, but tests show it to be the case in some scenarios.http://www.boltscience.com/pages/vibloose.htmThere is a LOT of free information on that website. Well worth a read if you're thinking of home engineering anything.As Ian said too, if the threads are more lubricated then the bolt can turn more, giving greater elongation, but at a lower 'torque' setting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hogie Posted May 15, 2017 Share Posted May 15, 2017 Hi Iain & JJ, I did say that there were lots of permutations to locking/torquing etc.You misunderstand what I was getting at - so I'm wrong. Fair enough.Roger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny-Jimbo Posted May 15, 2017 Share Posted May 15, 2017 I wasn't saying you were specifically wrong, but maybe I did misunderstand what you were saying - Indeed, you may not need a high torque with a spring washer, BUT a spring washer is NOT a locking device. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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