Ben Hutchings Posted April 7, 2008 Share Posted April 7, 2008 Hi, I'm fed up with my alloy brake master cylinder cap bonding itself to the MC body so solidly that I end up denting the thing getting it off. Can anyone tell me if plastic caps are available, or would that require a change of MC?Right now thing thing is so stuck that I think I'll snap the MC off the pedestal trying to remove it. I plan to get one of those old ladies jamjar top removers from the kitchen shop tomorrow and try that. If it fails I think I'll take the angle grinder to it! :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wolf Posted April 7, 2008 Share Posted April 7, 2008 Try little vaseline on the threads when you put it back on (get rid of the oxide first) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Hutchings Posted April 7, 2008 Author Share Posted April 7, 2008 Cheers Wolf, yea I tried that a while ago, should have said so in my post. I thought that fluid was leaking down the thread and drying out, so I replaced the rubber seal, but this doesnt seem to have fixed it. I know this sounds like a small issue but right now I have spongy breaks and a totally welded on cap! I think I'll have to order a new one and hack the old one off with a drift and hammer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
valencia1 Posted April 7, 2008 Share Posted April 7, 2008 the plastic one's are about as i have on my cutch m/c Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wolf Posted April 8, 2008 Share Posted April 8, 2008 Just thinking off the top of my head, what about copper slip. Since you have had problems with Vaseline I will need to change, since now I have got things sorted I don't check as often as I used to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willcolumbine Posted April 8, 2008 Share Posted April 8, 2008 I thought it was just me that hated getting the stupid cap off! I used to struggle every time no matter what I tried. I even cut myself on it a couple of times! I solved it in the end by changing to a plastic reservoir to go with my new Wilwood master cylinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick B. Posted April 8, 2008 Share Posted April 8, 2008 I would be carefull with which things I used un the reservoir. Don't risk polluting the brakefluid. I usually grease the trhreads with the red stuff that comes with brake rebuild kits. Never had a problem. CheersNick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toomanyprojects Posted April 8, 2008 Share Posted April 8, 2008 My new master cylinder also came with a plastic reservior. Pretty sure it's Girling... I have the same problem on my Landrover. It's a real pain...Nick B's solution sounds like a good plan. I might even have some of that grease lying about!P.S. Sorry, poor picture you'll find it bigger here http://more-power.co.uk/photos/andys_spitfire/images/393/original.aspxYou can see that the clutch cylinder also came with a plastic top. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick B. Posted April 8, 2008 Share Posted April 8, 2008 Uh-oh - fancy. Antifreeze in the same colour as the car ;D ;DCheersNick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toomanyprojects Posted April 8, 2008 Share Posted April 8, 2008 He he, Same colour as the Land rover as well!!!!Things are pretty bad though when you've got to buy antifreeze in 25L drums and use 2/3rds of it when you change all your vehicles! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Hutchings Posted April 8, 2008 Author Share Posted April 8, 2008 Hah, bulk buying! I need to do that with oil at the moment. Anyone fancy going halves on a drum or 20/50? (jk) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toomanyprojects Posted April 8, 2008 Share Posted April 8, 2008 Hutch wrote:Hah, bulk buying! I need to do that with oil at the moment. Anyone fancy going halves on a drum or 20/50? (jk):PSorry, got mine already. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Cureton Posted April 8, 2008 Share Posted April 8, 2008 Pour boiling water over the cap and it will come off no problem, just be careful to mop up before removing the cap so it doesn't get in to the fluid. Never faied for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lordleonusa Posted April 11, 2008 Share Posted April 11, 2008 works well with lids stuck on jam jars.L Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Hutchings Posted April 12, 2008 Author Share Posted April 12, 2008 Thanks steve, I'm going to try this later on today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Hutchings Posted April 12, 2008 Author Share Posted April 12, 2008 Oh well it was worth a try but the thing didnt budge with boiling water, or when I put an oil filter removal strap on it. I'll order up an alloy one and cut/happer/drill the old one off.If anyone finds a plastic cap (for the large MC's, not like the one valencia1 posted, please PM me. Cheers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Baxter Posted April 12, 2008 Share Posted April 12, 2008 My brake cylinder (original Girling one) has a plastic reservoir screwed on to the top, which in turn has a plastic cap. Only issue is that the bloody reservoir has gone the way of your cap, having a metal thread ... : Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferny Posted April 12, 2008 Share Posted April 12, 2008 I believe that's a later Herald one. The earlier ones didn't have the plastic extension. Bill? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
valencia1 Posted April 12, 2008 Share Posted April 12, 2008 or was the extension an optional extra? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Moore Posted April 12, 2008 Share Posted April 12, 2008 I think the plastic extension was fitted to cars with disc brakes. When the pads wear the fluid level drops faster than on cars with drums all round. Unfortunately the plastic extension isn't all that well sealed to the alloy body, so fluid can seep out and eventually strip paint off the bulkhead. A larger capacity, all alloy master cylinder is a good upgrade.Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rotoflex Posted April 12, 2008 Share Posted April 12, 2008 It seems like you should be able to heat that monkey up enough to get it loose.Have you tried using a heat gun on the cap?http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200328563_200328563They're cheap, & useful to have around. I use mine mostly for various electrical jobs: splices, etc. are covered with heat shrink,able tubing which is shrunk into place with the heat gun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Cureton Posted April 13, 2008 Share Posted April 13, 2008 If boiling water and filter wrench don't work then I suspect it's a lost cause. May as well go the full hog and chisel/prise it off as you've got nothing to lose - once you've found a replacement cap or, more probable, a replacement cyclinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Hutchings Posted April 13, 2008 Author Share Posted April 13, 2008 Yea, I'll order up a cap tomorrow. I think I'll be able to puncture and kind of peel it off. I'd try not to gut/grind anything as dont want to contaminate the fluid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Hutchings Posted April 23, 2008 Author Share Posted April 23, 2008 Update, for future forum searchers etc. The plastic large reservoir caps are NOT a suitable replacement for the alloy ones. They are a gnats wotsit too big and slip when tightened - even if its very lightly done up.poo! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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