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Replacing treadplate panels


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The 12/50 treadplates have been "repaired" (loose term!) before - new ones welded on top of the old. Messy! It is difficult to make out where they start and finish; and the front edges have been welded to the front tub. Should they be bolted here?
Before I cut them off (I have two new repair panels) how are they fitted properly? Are they just a single skin; welded to the door aperture seam and the 'B' post; screwed or bolted at the front end?  Or is there more to it? I've looked at all the manuals I have and I can't seem to find an answer.

Any help appreciated!!

Thanks,

Steve.

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Hi aswell as tread plates you will need two new body to frame mounts these sit about half way allong these will help set up the gap between the frame and the traed plate, also do it with the door attached so you can check gaps as to fix it later is soul destroying ;)
The tread plate only bolts to the front along the side where the sill panel fit's, the joint between the tread plate and the seal lip will depend what type of tread panels you have, if its the cheap one then it will have just a 'L' section the proper ones should have a joggle 1/2" before the meet the seal lip.
You can see the joggle below, l put mine under the floor panel and then puddle welded through, l also had to make a new seal lip as mine was badly rusted :(

Good luck with your project 8)

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I thought mine had been bodged when I found two treadplates, one on top of the other, but closer examination of the factory workshop book shows this to be how they were built, as a double skinned panel. They're welded to the B post and floorpan edge, but at the A post end they're just supposed to sit over the top of the bulkhead part of the floorpan with a bit of sealant, although you may find they've been welded at some point in the past. Mine had which was a right nuisance as that appears to have caused more corrosion than would have been there if they'd been left alone.  

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bxbodger wrote:
but at the A post end they're just supposed to sit over the top of the bulkhead part of the floorpan with a bit of sealant, although you may find they've been welded at some point in the past.  


So what's better? I think I'd rather weld mine once the panel gaps are sorted out as the body is refitted. After all, I have no intention of taking it off again.....  ;D
Any problems with that?

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Phantom's picture of the front edge is better than I could manage because of the odd lighting where my parts are stored.
Here are views of where it meets the B-post though:

First from above and inboard





This one's taken from the underside, note the spot welds at the end of the treadplate



Hope that helps,

Cheers,
Bill.

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Thanks very much for that; don't feel quite as bad as I did when I first found it. If I replace the treadplate, is it necessary to double skin it on reassembly as I can't find a panel listed for underneath. Or is the new panel just thicker and therefore suitable on its own?
Also as a side issue the bottom of the 'B' post is open; I'm assuming that it should be closed with a panel. Is this structural / MOT concern? If so, can this and the body mounting brackets be repaired or replaced without removing the rear tub?

Thanks again for the replies!!

Steve.

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Hi, yes you are right the bottom of the B pillar is meant to be closed, this often rots out as it didn't get any kind or anti-rust treatment on the inside :-/
l think you can not have holled corroision within 12 inches of a seatbelt anchorage not sure if the same applies to chassis to body mounting, but other may be able to clarify.
A lot of people leave the tread plate single skin, l used single thickness one 1.6mm and made the tread plate myself ;) at the end of the day they are not expensive so you could easily double them up.

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