yogi Posted October 17, 2009 Posted October 17, 2009 I keep destroying the lower steering coupling that sits between the column and the rack. I've been through three now since the car has been back on the road, about 18 months, the last one got considerably worse during the trip to the Lake District. The rubber bushes just disintegrate leaving me with an awful lot of free play between column and rack. Okay so I have Sprint wheels which must put more load through the steering as I do tend to use the extra grip to its full advantage. I also have poly bushes on the rack which might transfer more of the load through the coupling but I would still expect them to last longer than this, after all I'm not the only one who drives their Triumph hard am I?Anyway I found this modification from Wins International, which arrived today. I fitted it this afternoon but I've not taken the car out yet, that'll be tomorrow. I'm hoping this will be a bit more hardwearing.
yogi Posted October 17, 2009 Author Posted October 17, 2009 Some people seem to get lots of pictures in one reply but I run out space and have to list them separately for some reason. Anyway here's a picture of it fitted. The wire is an earth for the horn, obviously not needed for a Dolomite as they don't have the horn on the wheel.
yogi Posted October 17, 2009 Author Posted October 17, 2009 Some people seem to get lots of pictures in one reply but I run out space and have to list them separately for some reason. Anyway here's a picture of it fitted. The wire is an earth for the horn, obviously not needed for a Dolomite as they don't have the horn on the wheel.
Mad Mart Posted October 18, 2009 Posted October 18, 2009 Yes, that is a well known mod for the Dolly, I usually get mine from Demon Tweaks, from the Group 4 Escorts.What is that wire doing there?
thescrapman Posted October 18, 2009 Posted October 18, 2009 Mad_Mart wrote:What is that wire doing there? It's for the horn!!!!:-)
Keith Posted October 18, 2009 Posted October 18, 2009 I've got one of those on mine from Canleys, I think it's from a big saloon. Make sure that the top bolt doesn't foul on the bodywork before you drive it on the road, it was very close on mine and would only clear it with a nyloc and no washer.Keith
yogi Posted October 18, 2009 Author Posted October 18, 2009 Hello Mad Mart, yes it's for the horn. That one of yours looks a lot slimmer and lightweight.Hello Keith, yes it is very close but it doesn't quite touch.Well I've been out in it today and it's fine. It's nice to have responsive steering back, it is a pleasure to drive again now. The idea of the rubber coupling is supposedley to reduce shocks and vibration through the wheel I assume but it really doesn't feel any different so this has to be the way forward I think. Poly bush the rest of the front suspension next I reckon.
ferny Posted October 19, 2009 Posted October 19, 2009 The joint isn't solid metal then? Still has rubber parts? The type Bill (rarebits) and Rally Design, etc sell don't have rubber parts so last longer (my standard Herald one last less than 6k miles) and have no need for a horn wire. :)
yogi Posted October 19, 2009 Author Posted October 19, 2009 I think the actual UJ is some sort of nylon, though the centre of the cross is metal (see pictures above). It doesn't conduct electricity anyway. This came from Wins and I was assured it would outlast the car. I think I shall take that as a challenge! Only time will tell.
partsaver Posted October 19, 2009 Posted October 19, 2009 So thats one more shiney bit on your car, slowly getting there.
DaveKent Posted October 21, 2009 Posted October 21, 2009 Mad_Mart wrote:Yes, that is a well known mod for the Dolly, I usually get mine from Demon Tweaks, from the Group 4 Escorts.martin, do you have prt numbers from demon tweeks? is the one on the left the top joint and the one on the right the bottom joint?
Mad Mart Posted October 21, 2009 Posted October 21, 2009 Dave, they are both bottom couplings. The one on the left is the original type, the other one is the group 4 Escort part. I've had a look on DT website but could only find the forged one. I'll have a look at my old receipts tonight.NB. You will probably need to cut about ½" off the bottom of the top coupling as the Escort bottom coupling is slightly longer than the standard one. You may have to take a few mm. off the lip on the inner wing near the coupling as well for clearance (sometimes you do, sometimes you don't).EDIT: No wonder I can't find the part no. on the DT site, I get them from Rally Design. ;Dhttp://www.rallydesign.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=7333
DaveKent Posted October 21, 2009 Posted October 21, 2009 cheers Martin, I found one on Demon Tweeks under escort steering couplings, but wasn't sure if it woould fit shafts... have you done away with the top coupling too, that's where my play is, and it's a crap design !
DaveKent Posted October 21, 2009 Posted October 21, 2009 ahh, that explains my confusion Martin, looks like the garage that replaced the coupling last time has got it on upside down. According to the manual, the uj is at the top, the disc with the insert bushes is at the rack end, ie the bottom!mine has the coupling near the bulkhead, and a uj near the rack
DaveKent Posted October 21, 2009 Posted October 21, 2009 yep, that's what my book says too!! that's why I never take my cars to garages to be repaired!!!!!!
trackerjack Posted October 22, 2009 Posted October 22, 2009 I modified mine in the last century! and have done many many eyeball out laps of circuits with no problems and mine comes from a Maestro :P
partsaver Posted October 24, 2009 Posted October 24, 2009 may i point out that the dolomite lower joint is longer than the 1300fwd lower joint and therefore as far as i am aware the tow are not interchangable.Or have i been misinformed?
yogi Posted October 25, 2009 Author Posted October 25, 2009 No, it's actually the upper joint that is longer on the Dolly, though I'm not sure why. It's not like the bulkhead can be further away from the rack as the subframe mounting points are exactly the same. I know this as I have a 1500 subframe in my 1300. I may have to look into this tomorrow.
partsaver Posted October 28, 2009 Posted October 28, 2009 I bow to your superior knowledge oh great one.The rack could be further away as the subframe is a differnt shape on the cross members, although i dont not know how different, if only i know someone who had a couple of subframes laying around to compare.
yogi Posted October 28, 2009 Author Posted October 28, 2009 Had a quick look at Sarah's car when I was up the yard yesterday but the view of the joint is obscured by a brake servo and air filter box and as I had rather more pressing things to worry about I decided to leave it for another day.
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