mazfg Posted November 17, 2011 Share Posted November 17, 2011 Wanting to give the engine a good oil clear out and would like to take the sump off and remove any old crud and generally check the condition of the sump internals.How easy is it to get the sump off, the engine is staying put, so any pointers would be appreciated. I am aware of someof the front end bolts being shorter than the others, so will watch out for those.Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pimp my vit Posted November 17, 2011 Share Posted November 17, 2011 Not so easy I think as you have to lift the engine a bit, I can post definitive answer after 4.30pm if no one else answers in meantime............. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mazfg Posted November 17, 2011 Author Share Posted November 17, 2011 Ideally I would like to get the sump off as I'd imagine there maybe a lot of sludge in there. Never moved the engine before, so any pointers on that would be good....Unfortunately I have no engine hoist, so jacking it would be my option...if that's possible? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pimp my vit Posted November 17, 2011 Share Posted November 17, 2011 Right this is how the manual tell's it..............Disconnect the battery. Drain the radiator and engine sump. Disconnect the hoses from thermostat housing. Support the engine using the two lifting eyes. Slacken the right hand engine mounting bolts and remove the left hand mounting bolts. remove sump bolts and raise the engine, lever the sump rearwards to clear cross member and remove.I would say best to remove the sump as the sludge will not be removed by a engine oil flush, I did and could not believe the amount of crud in there!!If you haven't got a hoist then get a jack under some point other than the sump.Good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted November 17, 2011 Share Posted November 17, 2011 just to add we have done this twice... can be exiting.you have to lift pretty high , watch for fan/radiator contact.we used a hard wood support cut to fit under/in the front pulleythe rack will need removing (best ) or at least unclamped and slid well forwards.the type of pump and type of sump strainer are the bits to get in the way of getting enough rearward tarvel to get the pan to drop off.easier with the early pump.if these stop removal, get enough gap to remove (with thin fingers) the 3 oil pump bolts and let the pump drop into the sumpits off easy with that out the way.but you may have to cut /remove some of the splash gauze to enable the refittingyes there's a fair bit of lift drop,wiggle struggle involved in 'On Car removal' but its possible, its also worth resealing the bearing cap bridge wooden sealer blocks while you are getting dripped on .and make sure only short bolts have been used in the sump and timing cover , if any of these have bottomed out they will be stripped and need tapping metric M8 or going up a size, there is a steel bridge made which does make a serious repair for life , just dont have the supplier to hand .Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mazfg Posted November 18, 2011 Author Share Posted November 18, 2011 MMmmm, I can see myself talking me out of this...... I'm sure it does need doing though.... 47 years of sludge build up...??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jordon T Posted November 18, 2011 Share Posted November 18, 2011 Hi Mazfg,When i restroed my Vitesse 2-litre Mk1 the sludge and crud that had built up over the past 43 years was unbelievable ??), must have had at least 1/2 a litre of sludge and slurry in the bottom f the sump! :BI would do it as a matter of cause! :-/, Because the new oil that will be put into it at service time will only my tarnished and ruined by all the sludge! :'(RegardsJordan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mazfg Posted November 18, 2011 Author Share Posted November 18, 2011 Hehe, easy said than done :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted November 20, 2011 Share Posted November 20, 2011 dont be put off , it will either be a doddle......... or a lot of faffing about but it does come off....we even replaced the crank in ours ..in the car.. needs a load of shreaded wheat... it gets pretty heavy (the oil pump drive shaft was fouled by a lump of block casting snot, and the side load worn pump particles were ingested in the two centre mains , thank heavens for a dremel.. but it had been rubbing hard for 40 years ) dont you just love these little cars Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Einar Posted November 20, 2011 Share Posted November 20, 2011 Take a look here: http://vitesse.no/Garage%202008-2009.html - ended up to be pretty simple :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mazfg Posted November 20, 2011 Author Share Posted November 20, 2011 Wow, thankyou Einar, that has inspired much confidence in me now. Great to see your photos. Did you have much trouble with the oil pump getting in the way of the sump, or did the 1/2" lift make it easier?Many thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mazfg Posted November 20, 2011 Author Share Posted November 20, 2011 Did you just remove the engine mount bolts from the left hand side of the car and just loosen the others as was mentioned earlier? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Einar Posted November 20, 2011 Share Posted November 20, 2011 No problem at all with the oil pump getting in the way of the sump – went all very smooth! I do not remember whether just the left or both engine mounts were loosened – probably both….. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mazfg Posted November 21, 2011 Author Share Posted November 21, 2011 How long did you have the engine lifted up to remove the sump? and you say it was a piece of wood at the bottom of the timing cover? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mazfg Posted November 21, 2011 Author Share Posted November 21, 2011 Is it also worth removing the oil pump for inspection? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted November 24, 2011 Share Posted November 24, 2011 while the sumps of its worth a quick look at the pump for any scoring and drop a couple of the main caps off for a look , just make sure you put the caps back the same way round, should be marked , but a dab with a paint stick or a centre pop mark to be sure , there's plenty od tee shirts out there for fitting caps back to front and wonder why it wont turn now !!Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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