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Very near the end of full restoration


buckyjohn

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Very near the end of a full restoration, all parts fitted have been the best I could get hold of, now just a few things to sort out and would like some advice please. The car is 1968 Mk2 Vitesse.

What in your opinion is the best,   Brake fluid? Anti freeze? Petrol additive (if needed) and any advice on starting her up after such a long lay off,

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A branded brake fluid. And branded BLUE antifreeze (not red)
No additives, just use high octane.
Start up? Ideally take the dizzy out and spin the oil pump with a battery drill (reverse IIRC) And then plugs out, spin on starter motor. Then plugs in and off you go.
May be worth a squirt of oil down the bores a day beforehand, watch out when you spin the engine with plugs out, oil can get sprayed about. A thick old towel thrown over the engine sorts the issue.

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If you want to keep your bulkhead looking good then you will need to use silicone break fluid. The master cylinders will always leak around the cap and take the paint off.  Lots of past discussions on the pro's and con's of this but you will need to make your own decision.  IMHO it is fine, the brake pedal on my car is really firm but I would still change it every 2 years to avoid contamination.

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Yep.

Downside of silicone fluid (apart from possible softer pedal) is that it does not mix with normal fluid, and if you change from one type to the other you need to swap all the rubber seals, that means master cylinder, caliper and rear brake cylinder seals. Some people have got away with not changing seals, but not a chance I would be prepared to take. And try to find silicone fluid when you need it (ie local shop)

But yes, normal fluid will strip paint. But not had problems on my cars.

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Re silicone fluid - When I replaced my clutch master and slave cylinders I put in silicone fluid. It was a experiment to see whether reported problems such as leaks, aeration and compressibility would be a problem. If not, I would eventually have converted my brake system and avoided the paint-stripped bulkhead syndrome.

After a few weeks, the master cylinder seals went soft and fluid started trickling down the pedal. The silicone also made my pedal rubber and floor mat go gooey - strange stuff!

So, I replaced the seals in both cylinders and went back to normal fluid. I've now fitted a master cylinder with a plastic cap. It's not original but seals better than the tin one! On my GT6 I fitted wee alloy trays under the brake and clutch master cylinders to contain drips, and when I repaint my Herald, I'll fit a tray on that too.

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Brake fluid? - I don't want to touch silicon personally. Whichever fluid you use, make it a good one. I used to use Halfords own-brand stuff but I've not been happy with it for a while. I don't know if they've changed what's in there but it started to give me a soft pedal whereas before it was firm. I bought some Pagid branded fluid to put in my Herald but didn't get the chance and that's what is now in DollyRoo. I'll be buying some more for myself as it appears to be an all-round better product. Boiling point (when fresh) is 270°C as well. I was tempted by the ATE Super R Blue, but it doesn't appear to be better than Pagid on paper.


Anti freeze? - Anything blue and mixed to at least 30% anti-freeze to water. Much more is a waste and any less will reduce the performance you need. If you're filling the system for the first time either use water so you can check for leaks or mix it a touch thicker so when you top up it won't dilute it too far.


Petrol additive - If it's an old head, don't bother. If it's been converted, don't bother. If it's been refreshed, don't bother until valve seat recession appears (probably will in this circumstance) and then use Castrol branded stuff.


best spark plugs - NGK, as said.

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1218 wrote:
Yet my Herald runs DOT 5 Silicone fluid since its restoration with no compressibility issues at all.  

Mark


Ditto my Vitesse. The pedal is no softer than when it was on normal brake fluid, and the paint on my bulkhead has been saved several times by the fact I'm running silicone fluid. Of course if your master cylinders are in perfect condition and you have a steady hand when topping them up there ls no need for silicone fluid, but we don't live in a perfect world.

So from personal experience I don't understand the negative press silicone fluid gets, but each to their own, It is flippin expensive though...

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