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mpbarrett

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Everything posted by mpbarrett

  1. I see someone is selling a Supercharger for a 1500 on the adverts. SO what sort of performance increase do you get by fitting a supercharger to a standard engine? Anyone used one on a 4 pot? Just intrigued... Mike
  2. 3546 wrote:...... As a point of interest, you can also get an MX-5 wind deflector that slips over the seats and is quite effective for not a huge amount of money although not, perhaps, the most stylish.   Re the wind deflector. That's interesting where did you get it from? Does it just fit over the heat rests? I have MX5 seats in my Herald and TR6 very comfortable and quite cheap. There is a place just north of Peterborough (they are on Ebay) that breaks MX5 and often has good seats for sale. cheers mike
  3. Spent the last couple of weeks with my TR6 in the garage. Done lots of stuff on it (new drive shafts, throttle linkage service etc). Next job is to start on the front suspension, this is all new to me but seems very (triumph) familiar. It has trunnions but I notice they have been greased. Do TR6 trunnions need to be greased or oiled? Are they as susceptible to breaking as the small chassis cars? My car is interesting, very original and has been looked after, but all the original throttle linkage all carefully oiled but very worn! Same with the rear UJ, carefully greased but worn out! No nasty surprises yet. Have fitted new linkage and serviced the car and it now goes much better, beginning to enjoy it! Mike
  4. mpbarrett

    fuel filters?

    I have started to play with my TR6 (1972 150bhp). It has had a, I think a Bosch pump fitted under the NS rear wing and has a "Mahle MK 14 filter" fitted between the tank and the pump. The filter I dated 01 09 2010 so want to change it. So what is the best filter to use, its on the low pressure side, should I try to find a direct replacement or should I use something else. Looking at various websites and forums some people recommend filters on both sides of the pump but I don't understand why you need 2 filters..... Any way all suggestion welcome :). cheers mike
  5. Alex wrote:It's on 10mm cable I've now been told to change from a type B 20A fuse to a type C 20A......apparently a B copes with 3-5 times full load current and a type C is 5-10 times. Does this all make sense to anyone  ;D yes. It wont be a fuse but a MCB (miniature circuit breaker) you can buy different types for different surge currents. For example a motor starting will draw a lot of current for a short period of time, with the right MCB it wont trip until the current has stayed high for a longer period. A C or D type should sort out your problem. Nice explanation here http://www.neweysonline.co.uk/MCBs/Static.raction Mike
  6. mpbarrett

    Seats for Herald

    ferny wrote: Can you send me their contact details? I may need a new alternator but don't plan to spend the £200 needed! ;D have a look for "prestige_spares_uk"  on ebay. cheers mike
  7. mpbarrett

    Seats for Herald

    2729 wrote:Early XJS seats have a proper tip forward mech and look pukka. http://moddedherald.blogspot.co.uk/2006/08/jaguar-xjs-seats.html I tried these in my Herald but they would not recline as they hit the B post, but they are very very comfortable! Might work ok in a  Saloon. I have the usual MX5 seats in my herald, they recline and are very comfortable. There is a place near Peterborough who are breaking MX5's and are selling the seats on Ebay. I have just brought a pair for the TR6 for about £50. mike
  8. do you have electronic ignition? If so and its a RetroRocket system then you must make sure it has an earth connection between the dist body and the plate holding the sensor. Otherwise you will get probelms very similar to fuel vapourisation... regards mike
  9. I have found that if you fit electroinc points you must reset the timing as the trigger point is very different from the mechanical points. Its not a straight change over. You need to do a static TDC check to get them somewhere close to the right setting. Also check that you have an earth connection to the plate that the electronic points are fixed to. I had problem with this on the GT6 and had to fit a seperate earth lead. mike
  10. thescrapman wrote:I had heard that the GT6 had a new home. Depending on how quickly you want/need a TR6, I know of 2or3 for sale. He has 5 at the moment, a few too many. Just started to look, surprised at how much the pirces have gone up since I last looked. But have found some funds and have started to look. I would be interested in the ones you know about (send me a PM). cheers mike
  11. 4058 wrote:Do the bearings feel sloppy and worn? Because the wine is usually a sign of incorrect back lash, so if for example the pinion bearing was failing, then it would create too much back,lash and whine! Therefore setting the teeth in the wrong place and placing too much stress on them, causing it to overheat! Always a good idea to place a filler plug while the diff is out! No sign of any backlash, all feels tight. I am afraid the GT6 has gone to a new home (with 12 other cars), mixed feeling but I dont think it liked me :) Libby is not happy but I have started to look for a new Triumph to keep the Herald company... anyone selling a good TR6 let me know. cheers mike
  12. I know this sounds stupid but you have undone the leaf spring from above? usually they wait until you are under them before they drop..... Mike
  13. michael_charlton wrote:Mike When you dismantled was there still a considerable amount of oil left in the casing? Just wondered if you had somehow `dumped` some before the whining started When filling, I generally tilt the car over to allow more to go in If there is any excess and it blows back through the split pin breather then I know its well full.................and it protects the underside of the car ( :) ) yes plenty of oil but not in good condition. No sign of any leaking, dont know if any had been pumped out of the breather, will have a look. Will remember to tilt the car next time I fill it :) cheers mike
  14. lagerzok wrote: http://www.triumphexperience.com/phorum/read.php?8,918474,page=1 Worth reading this from over the pond Excellent discussion about diffs. Its good as I want to understand why it failed. One of the interesting parts is that the oil is critical and the diff has a tendency to overheat (not enough volume of oil in the housing). Looking at mine the oil is very discoloured  and doesnt feel very slippery. Also the remains of the teeth show signs of over heating. You can see clearly how the teeth have fractured and failed. In my case the diff started to make a noise late on the thursday (whinning) and got worse thru the night and next day. It was a long days driving with little time for things to cool down. So I think that the oil was starting to fail and then the diff overheated, oil got worse and the teeth broke. End of diff. The lesson is probably to change the oil in the diff at least every year. Mine was full with EP80 GL4 oil but in future I think I will suck it out and change it yearly. Or add a drain plug to the casing. regards mike
  15. timbancroft61 wrote:Blimey, Mike you do have rotten luck with that car. Presume you have had a chat with the usual diff suspects? Just pleased that you have the car back. Tim, yes its good to have it back but I don't think it likes me... Really not sure what to do with it. I am tempted to sell it but will put in a  spare diff I have (3.63) and get it back on the road and then decide. if I do sell it I might go after a TR6 (I still want something with a 6 cylinder engine) but am a bit surprised how much they have gone up in value in the last few years since I last looked at them! Nic Will probably strip it down just out if interest. I would love to work out what the failure mechanism is. It started making a noise (whine) that gradually got worse over 24 hours and then it suddenly failed. Will keep the pinion and mount it as a work of Art.... Cheers mike
  16. Got the diff out today and this is what it looked like, ate least 3 teeth broken from the pinion and lots of bits in the oil. The crown wheel is damaged as well. Soooo how difficult is it to replace the crown and pinion (will have a look at the workshop manual later) and where can you buy new pinions and crown wheels? Mike
  17. uksnatcher wrote:WOW.........! 580 Euro's I assume (its showing dollars) for hire/taxi expenses.....just wow.....that's a blow to the old pocket...... :o (NOTE TO SELF: check insurance/recovery before journey) sorry $ should be Euros..... still lots of dosh.... But I did save money on petrol in the hire car. mike
  18. bobyspit wrote:Glad the car is home Mike, I have  a pic of the altitude that you broke down at! Ill find and post. On the insurance theme, companies have changed things in recent years!! I broke down on the 2009 event, the hire car was included as was the car recovery to the U,K. My friend also using the same insurance company this year broke down in Germany, what a different story! His car was recovered to the UK but he had to pay for the hire car for the remainder of his trip. That changed in 4 years. It would be interesting to ring around the classic insurance companies and check who offers what cover. It may make a difference between getting your car home and not and paying for a hire car which in my friends case added up to $600 . Rob yes we had to pay for the hire car ($450 + taxi to pick up hire car, $130). Glad its back but next time will check the insurance wording very carefully.... My insurance is with Peter Taylor in Hove, they were ther only ones to insure Libby on the GT6 (2.5l) and the Stag when we had it, so have stuck with them. They use DAS who I believe are part of the AA or at least AA European recovery returned the car. In the end it look like they got a UK company to drive down and get it. They lost my phone number so couldnt phone me so just put the car on the drive and and gave the keys to a neighbour.... Real surprise to find in on the drive last night! Actually Peter Taylor have been ok and have pushed DAS to get the car back..... cheers mike
  19. SHE IS HOME! came back from work and the GT6 was parked under the car port as if she had never been away... No phone call, no keys (found they had been left with a neighbour ...). But she is back, broke down on the 6 Sept 2013 returned 8 Oct 2013. Maybe the highest breakdown and longest recovery! BTW when did the Stag get home? mike
  20. nice looking Dolly! used to have a 1500Hl same mud brown colour, very under rated. Libby used it to learn to drive in and we fitted rear seat belts into it.. Hope you enjoy it. Mike
  21. mpbarrett wrote:I am insured for breakdown thru DAS (via my insurance company) and the GT6 is still not back. We broke down on the 6 Sept.. Was promised (5 phone calls over the last week...) for delivery tomorrow but now wont be picked up from the garage in southern France until Monday or Tuesday next week. Then it will only be taken to Calais to be picked up by another transporter. ETA anytime next week. And I am responsible for the 'storage charges' while I have to wait for the insurance company to sort out the transport. Not impressed. Am beginning to think about driving down to the garage with a spare diff, replace it and drive it back home again.... If we do the next 10CR will have to look very carefully at European breakdown insurance and the small print :(. Mike Unbelievable yet more delays, car still not picked up, and still sitting outside the garage in  Saint-Pons, nr Barcelonnette,  France! DAS have passed on the job to AA European recovery and they are now promising end of next week. There excuse is a major backlog of breakdowns in Europe..... I think we might be going for a record highest breakdown and longest recovery time...... BTW has the Stag got back yet? Mike
  22. Nick_Jones wrote: Blimey, that was quick!  I wonder if Mike has his GT6 back yet?  Or Andrew & Sarah their Stag? What's happened to the other team Torpedo vehicles? Nick NO Mikes GT6 is still in France and I don't expect to see it now until the end of next week... Not very happy. I am planning some contingency plans everything from taking a new diff and fixing it at the garage to hiring a transporter and going to get it... I used DAS they have been ok, but its taking sooo long to get the car back and has cost me a lot of money so far.. The lesson learnt is to read the small print of the insurance policy! Mike
  23. I am insured for breakdown thru DAS (via my insurance company) and the GT6 is still not back. We broke down on the 6 Sept.. Was promised (5 phone calls over the last week...) for delivery tomorrow but now wont be picked up from the garage in southern France until Monday or Tuesday next week. Then it will only be taken to Calais to be picked up by another transporter. ETA anytime next week. And I am responsible for the 'storage charges' while I have to wait for the insurance company to sort out the transport. Not impressed. Am beginning to think about driving down to the garage with a spare diff, replace it and drive it back home again.... If we do the next 10CR will have to look very carefully at European breakdown insurance and the small print :(. Mike
  24. Gt6s wrote: Fit a Quaife to a 3.63 unit. I have just bought another one for my old 2.5 carb car. Allready have one in the EFI motor it has had dogs abuse. Tip. Do not buy one off evilbay go direct to Quaife. Laurence that changes the diff cogs but do you keep the same pinion and crown wheel? It will be interesting to see whats broken in mine when I get it back. regards mike
  25. cliftyhanger wrote:All very simple. The engines are almost identical. Only things are you have to use a gt6 sump. But that requires denting to clear the extra throw of the 2.5 crank, all very simple. Second part is the carbs.  Needs hs6 carbs with the short ( dolly sprint) tops. In fact the sprint needles are about correct the OK. These need fitting to a gt6 inlet manifold. Not too tricky at all. Other things to consider are the diff ratio. Ideally 3.27 but rather weak. I ended up with 3.63 in my 2.5 vitesse as I kept breaking 3.27's. Overdrive obviously a must. My 2.5L OD GT6 (mk3) had a 3.89 originally and got very very noisy, changed to a secondhand 3.63 and it broke, brought  a new reconditioned 3.63 and that broke after 2 years.... not sure what to do next. I think the torque from a 2.5L is at the limit of the diffs or I have been unlucky? Or maybe you accept that the diff is a consumable and after every second oil change you should change the diff :) cheers mike mike
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