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mpbarrett

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Everything posted by mpbarrett

  1. mpbarrett
    Tried XJS seats in my herald convertible, very comfortable but there is not enough room for them to recline. Sold them on and got the usual MX5 seats... mike
  2. mpbarrett
    Might be worth trying to import it into TYRE and then exporting it out again. TYRE seems to handle most formats. mike
  3. mpbarrett
    Team 58 booked 12:00 and 14:00. Thanks for sorting this out its a very good deal. cheers mike
  4. mpbarrett
    that's very good. If you designed it would you be willing to share the design? Then anyone anywhere could get it printed, 3D printing is a bit like sharing a PDF file.... Maybe CT need a new group on the forum for 3D print designs, we are "the club that does things".... or some thing like that.. mike
  5. mpbarrett
    the LED bulbs I got from Moss were part number 170-972 "bulb dash led white screw". Probably cheaper else where but very good quality and work very well in aTR6. This does assume your car is neg earth, cant remember if all Vittesse's were neg earth? LED lights are polarity sensitive will only work the correct way round. cheers mike
  6. mpbarrett
    you can buy replacement LED lights that fit in place of the screw in filament bulbs. Lots of sellers on Ebay or good quality ones from Moss. The are very good, bright and low power. Just fitted some to the TR6 so I can see the speedo at night. mike  
  7. mpbarrett
    ferny wrote:Can I have the data sheet, please? I can't get it to work at the moment. No matter what I do all I'm getting is a 1v drop. I'm wondering if the LM317 is buggered as I've tested the resistors and they're fine. I bought two LM317's but haven't used the second one yet. I've checked and double checked online to see how others have soldered the bits together and I can't see what's going wrong. your cct should work. Data sheet is https://www.fairchildsemi.com/datasheets/LM/LM317.pdf LM317 are pretty well bullet proof. Check you have the pin connections correct that's the usual reason for them not to work! Does the cct really draw 0.37A? If so you will dissipating 3.88W ((12-1.5)*0.38A) across the regulator, it will get very hot and go into a thermal shut down unless you put it onto a heatsink. Take a picture of your cct and post it. cheers mike
  8. mpbarrett
    Fixed! one of the new engine mounts had come unbonded, it looked slightly lower than it should be but when i took it off it came competely apart. looking at the metal part you can see that it was only bonded over about 30% of the area so I guess it was weak and came apart. Not sure where it came from (had it in my stock of parts) otherwise I would sent it back to the supplier. thanks for all the helpful suggestion. mike
  9. mpbarrett
    Richard_B wrote:The exhaust should have a clamp from the enging/gearbox joint. Does sound to me like it could be touching the chassis somewhere. Make sue you have 1/2" clearance on the whole exhaust run. Worn mounts allowing the engine & exhaust to move? It's not a wheel barrow exhaust is it?  :X not a wheel barrow had one on my gt6 horrid thing... The herald has a tubular exhaust manifold in to a large pipe to a single read box that might be from a vittesse. The exhaust is only supported at the rear box (rubber mountings at both ends of the rear box. Will try putting a fixing between the exhaust and the engine/gearbox. Think it is clear of the chassis but will check. It has new engine mounts but looking yesterday they do seem to deformed a lot. I think I have a pair of nos so might fit those instead. cheers mike
  10. mpbarrett
    Great, thanks for all the suggestions. I did disconnect the fan belt but it made no difference to the vibration. It has a new clutch (plate and pressure plate). Operating the clutch makes no difference to the vibration. The exhaust is essentially the same but I have put in a new short section with a boss for a wide band sensor, which is in the pipe. I finally have everything to inject it... once I get rid of the vibration... I think it is to do with the exhaust I am going to try clamping the exhaust half way down the pipe (change the pipe resonance ) and see if it effects the vibration. Will try it over the weekend, was going to do tomorrow but have decided to go down to London Model Engineering and drawl over the models and toys instead of playing cars :) cheers mike
  11. mpbarrett
    Richard_B wrote:Find a clear road, get up to speed and put the car in neutral. while coasting does the vibration stay? Yes its not the drive train, if I put it into neutral and drop the revs the vibration geos away, comes  back when the rev get to 1700. thanks for the suggestions, keep them coming! cheers mike
  12. mpbarrett
    I have recently changed the engine in my Herald from a 1500 to a less oil leaky 1500 but with a stage 2 head (think its been gas flowed a bit but have never understood what stage 2 actually means..). It has a tubular manifold into a straight pipe with a back box. This is the same as the previous engine. Its running twin SU's. The engine is fine nice smooth tick over with no nasty noises. But I am getting  lots of vibration thru the car from about 1700 to 2300 rpm, bad enough to make the car uncomfortable to drive. Don't think its anything in the engine but am not sure if its coming from the exhaust, maybe it just hitting a natural resonance or whether something else is going on? Did start to wonder if the fly wheel was loose but nothing changes if the I use the clutch. Any suggestion welcome. BTW the exhaust is very noisy and I probably need to fit a centre box to the exhaust but am unsure whats best for a 1500 Herald. cheers mike
  13. mpbarrett
    Sat navs are great when you partner is asleep. But you have to realise the limitations and you do need good maps (marked up) as well. Also  don't rely on someone else way points you really need to check them before setting off other wise the sat nav will take you somewhere strange and you wont know where you are. I recommend the PC software Tyre it will import and export lots of different formats, and let you zoom in and let and then you can add edit the waypoints very easily. cheers mike
  14. mpbarrett
    JohnD wrote:The problem is the original "Swing axle" arrangement that Triumph used, until they went Rotoflex and then Swing Spring. And the Swing axle problem is that the wheel is rigidly attached to the end of the half shaft. Vigorous cornering will cause the body to lift, so that the wheel on the outside (and inside but that doesn't matter) is in positive camber.   This exaggerates further body lift, and the feedback pushes the wheel down and under the car - "jack-up", losing adhesion on the way. The importance in real life road motoring was exaggerated by the Press at the time, and by rivals ever since, but except in extreme use, competition and as you say, braking on bends (TUT!  NEVER brake on bends!! Do it befoe you get there! Slow in=fast out! ) it doesn't happen. ...... Always worth deliberately making the rear wheel do this at least once so you know what to expect if happens by mistake. It can all go pear shaped very quickly.... mike
  15. mpbarrett
    Lots of Spitfires, usual mix of big saloons and TR's but no Heralds. mike
  16. mpbarrett
    Slightly confused if we have had a direct email does that mean we are in? Would be nice to see a list of all the entrants. cheers mike
  17. mpbarrett
    michael_charlton wrote:Mike Barrett and Libby Sargent (ne Barrett)      TR6   ) Quick lets invent a fast repair diff kit.... ;) THATS mean... I am taking a different approach with the TR6. Instead of replacing everything with new bits don't do anything to it. This summer it did about 1500 mile been around Italy, Switzerland and France (and on to the top of the Fiat Factory) and with a previous owner spent a lot of time in Italy. Only thing that it didn't like was going above 2000M but I have a plan.... Actually I am more worried that Libby wont be able to leave the new grand daughter, Issy (she is gorgeous...) with Matt for 4 days. :) Mike
  18. mpbarrett
    Quoted from thescrapman Martin Randle/David Lidbury/Hank Hall   Mk2 2000 Tim Bancroft/Dave Kent                      MK1 2.5 Pi (SU) Mike & Anne Weaver                          Dolomite Sprint Clive  & Gill Senior                            Spitfire 1800 (it must be finished by then!) Colin Wake + 1                                 Perhaps a TR again....... Dave Jones + His Brother (hopefully) who is willing to fix the Mk1 2000 at the last moment for him Mike /JaneCharlton                          Spitfire mk3 Philip Charlton/Wayne Coates           MK1 2000/V8 Steve Thompson/Gaz Seddon          GT6 MK3 (mobile bar) Howard Pryor/Tim Hunt                   TR4 Mike Banks & Tristan Banks               Spitfire Mk3 Richard Warr +1 (hopefully)              Stag Nick Jones + 1                               Vitesse 2L (maybe even with new engine......) Ellis Stokes / Keith Compton-Bishop / Darren Hartman  - Mk1 2500 Steve Pratt/Richard Pratt.                  Stag Steve Radley/Ashley Mills/Darren Sharp  Mk1 2.5Pi......or Gertie.     Matt George/Chris Hayden                2000 (2.5) Keith George/Richard Lowe               TR6 Roger Keys/Kay Keys                        Stag Shaun Allen/ dirk Devogeleer         eh, something with 4 wheels on and a Triumph engine...  possibly a Spitty. Roy Lacey/Julia Lacey.                       GT6 mk1 Doug Jensen/Vicki Jensen.                  T2000 mk1   Mike Barrett and Libby Sargent (ne Barrett)      TR6   :)) Mike
  19. mpbarrett
    I am, or with our luck will try to. Libby is determined to come but will need to leave the sprog (due early Dec...) with Matt! Plan would be to use the TR but it did not like the high passes this summer. Will need to stock up with plenty of plugs. mike
  20. mpbarrett
    trigger wrote:When’s this going to open for entries? Also any new on where we are going yet  :) - Please can we go and see some big mountains again  :) :) does this mean you have an engine in the car now :) Mike
  21. mpbarrett
    timbancroft61 wrote:Mike, Massive thanks to you, Paul Darbyshire, Andy Flexney and Willi Mindak. Help received was most welcome. Also, RallySpit, thanks Mike, again help beyond the bounds of what one can expect. True CT members who exhibit the right credentials. Tim rotten luck.... Had the same problem with my GT6, took the external pipe off and 2 days later the rocker shaft seized. When I looked the rocker shaft pillar was it was catching on a head bolt (too long) and so the original feed up the pillar was leaking. With the external pipe it could cope without it not enough oil flowed into the rocker shaft and you know what happens next... Really sorry for you. Was doing to come down to the start but was still at work and tomorrow I wil be in Aberdeen. But its great following it on the forum, Fb and blog! all the best mike
  22. mpbarrett
    michael_charlton wrote:First checkpoint Blyth: Non starters 114/116 Late runners due to mechanical faults 37/63 Retirements 72 and 81 Then a serious accident on the A1M held everyone up for a long time Raining at Carter Bar and runners just arriving Is 81 Tim B car? That bad luck anyone know what happened? mike
  23. mpbarrett
    2674 wrote:Hi, Please does anyone have an engine hoist I could borrow preferably near Cambridge, probably for a couple of months by the time I have remove the engine refurbished all the parts and replaced it. If you want to see the story of why see Engine Seized - help thread. I will buy one if I have to but chances are it will just sit in my garage after that taking up space. Many thanks Regards, Andy Andy I have one and am in Cambridge. But cant let you have for a couple of months as I plan to swop the Herald engine out in a couple of weeks time. When do you need it? I think it will fit in the back on our estate car so could drop it round when you are ready to lift the engine out. Other option might be to hire one but then for the same money you could buy one use it and then Ebay it! cheers mike
  24. mpbarrett
    9019 wrote: Actually, this is not quite correct... The trunnions require oil: a hypoid gear oil is the best for this purpose: it is designed to be used in extreme pressures between gear teeth, and does coat the threads properly, as  indicated by the factory requirement. A grease is not a good option- while it does seem to work ok, it also hardens, and does not provide proper lubrication of the trunnions. The service manual, IIRC, specifically states to not use grease...  You will find a higher incidence of wear due to the grease. I always use hypoid gear oil on my trunnions... Scott thanks guys. for the moment I have greased the trunnions as they have been regularly greased in the past. I am planning toe replace all the bushes on the front suspension as they are very worn (perished...) and when I do that will clean and oil the trunnions. cheers mike
  25. mpbarrett
    1972 TR6 The brakes on the car seem to work ok and pull up straight but seem to need a lot of pushing on the pedal. Yesterday took it for a run and had to brake suddenly from speed when a tractor pulled out, suddenly the brakes pulled very badly to the left, as this was a fen road with the usual ditch by the road so it was a bit scary... Tried the brakes again and they seem fine until you have push hard then they start to pull badly to the left. Any ideas? sticking piston, could it be a rubber hose? or something else? any suggestions welcome... mike
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