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Radders

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Everything posted by Radders

  1. Car 44. First choice car: (Team Gertie) Rebuilt engine now on 530 miles so oil & filter change due shortly. Rear brake drums and shoes needed, front pads will be changed soon too. Rear driveshafts to be greased New wipers needed Uprated rear springs to be fitted so that exhaust and undercarriage remain on car during the run.  :) 2nd choice car: (Team CAC!) Gearbox being changed again on Saturday Diff change following weekend Probably renew front wheel bearings as well as I've never done them in the four years I've owned the car. 3rd choice car: (The Mk1 that Davemate has just bought) How long have you got?  ;D
  2. Couple of points that came to light on our first RBRR: Load you car up with your spares and crew before the event and see how it sits on the suspension. Then you'll see if you need to fit uprated springsif the car is sitting too low. Also, if you have never done it, fill the fuel tank to the very top. Then you will find out if you have any leaks at the top of the tank or if your fuel cap seals properly when full.   My co driver also brought along a couple of sleeping bags on our first run just in case of a break down. At least you'll stay warm then while awaiting recovery/assistance. I thought it was a good idea myself.  :)
  3. michael_charlton wrote: PLEASE DISREGARD THIS POSTING ,DUE TO A TECHNICAL HITCH Suppliers trade van has broken down?  :)
  4. Radders

    rover 75 seats

    Nick_Jones wrote: Radders has Alfa 156 (I think) in his which seem to be the business...... Nick Correct. In both Saloon and estate. And they are the business!  :)
  5. Engine rebuilt (again!) and now refitted. Gertie went to the North London meet last night and behaved well.  :) Estate car still being prepared as back up car just in case though. I'm not taking any chances! ;)
  6. The overdrive on my A type gearbox is slow to come in. (2 to 3 seconds sometimes) The oil level is fine and all the electric side of it is working fine, so is there anything else I could look at? Thanks  :)
  7. Does anyone know where I can get a front engine plate for a Mk2 engine? It needs to have the bit with the three holes so you can mount the power steering pump bracket. Or if anobody on here has one spare they would like to exchange for bear tokens/RBRR charity donation?
  8. Gertie's engine still not back, so work continues on the back up car. Four wheel alignment and tracking done today to try and resolve the pulling to the left. New UJ's fitted on the inner rear driveshafts today, but a few other jobs left to do. Possible gearbox change. (very very notchy gearchange when warm-any ideas anyone? :-/) Windscreen wipers Oil Pressure gauge Front wheel bearings Make some kind of tailgate seal so I don't poison the person in the back. ;D
  9. It might say Raiders Triumph in the paper, but it's Radders Triumph in the photo.  ;D Well, my old one anyway.  :)
  10. Radders

    Oil Pressure

    I'm going to look at (and listen to) a 2500S engine tonight. I'm taking an oil gauge set up with me as well. What kind of pressure should I be expecting on start up from cold and then once warm? Thanks
  11. Engine going back to the people who built it tomorrow for further investigation. Will update when I know more.  :(
  12. Nick_Jones wrote:Ah, ugly......  What about the mains? Standard bearings on a reground crank?  Big ends of con-rounds not round?  Insufficient oil reaching them?  You have to remove ALL oil-way plugs and the oil-pump drive bush to be sure the oil ways are clean.  Do you have an oil pressure gauge, where is it connected and what was it reading?  Also possible they just fitted a new oil pump and it's one of the crappy ones that doesn't actually pump much...... Nick Dont know about std bearings on a reground crank Nick. Lots more investigation and measuring to do. The mains are fine. No marks or scores at all. The oil pump was the one that was in there already and is a CW blue printed item.
  13. jcarruthers wrote:Is it really the bearings fault? I have County bearings in my 2 litre and its fine. I'm sure there are lots of other 2.5s that have done more than 2000 miles with County bearings. Much more likely to be the machining? I suspect not, but finding four of the six conrods loose wouldn't have helped!  Also, the bearings with the most excessive wear don't seem to fit the caps properly?
  14. 1344 wrote: Trust us to pick the only good one when we checked ! I wonder how the engine builder will try and wriggle out of this. To be honest Dave, I have lost total faith and trust in them and might not even bother taking it back to them. Sure, they'll probably do it all under guarantee, but will I end taking the engine out  yet again two months later? I will have a good think before I make my decision.  :-/ I wont tell you the make of the bearing manufacturer outright, just that most of live in one and we have to go through as many of them as possible on the HCR. Now I've given you enough clues here so make them COUNT.You with me?  ;)
  15. Engine now out and sitting on the workbench. (Thanks to Davemate for his help) My gut feeling is that it's more likely the small ends/cam/followers side of things, rather than the big ends or mains, but time will tell.  :-/
  16. sparky_spit wrote: Oh dear, that's not good news.  Oddly enough, when you were behind me a few Wednesdays ago, going round the Dengie, I thought I heard rumbling/knocking behind me but thought it couldn't be you as you'd just had a freshly rebuilt engine. I assume it's going back to Carlow's? I'm not sure who it's going to yet. I have spoken to Carlow's regarding the rumbling noise, but the response I've had hasn't exactly filled me with confidence nor trust. Once the engine's out and the sump is off and I know exactly what the problem then I can decide my course of action. For the time being, the estate will have to be kept as a RBRR back up car.  :-/
  17. thescrapman wrote:Well it seems I broke the PI on Monday , I suspect the strain of hauling 3 fat blokes and a mountain of luggage down the LeMans and back again (but with added ill-gotten gains on the way back) was too much for it. I share your pain sincerely.......... A rolling road session at Mowatts yesterday confirmed my suspicions and that my newly rebuilt engine has some serious rumbling noises of the big end variety! (Just for info, It recorded 109 bhp at the rear wheels, but they didnt want to take it over 5000 revs because of the rumbling!) Engine removal(Again!) is planned over the next few days  :( I'd better not sell the estate just yet!  :-/
  18. I have the same with both of my cars even though both the release bearings are less than two years old. More crap quality parts I suspect. I've learned to live with both of them. I cant be arsed to take a gearbox out just for a small part. I'll wait until I destruct one properly and do it then.  :)
  19. If you are using the water pipe connected to the back of the inlet manifold that feeds the heater hoses check that for blockage too. This caused an issue for me once.  ;)
  20. Don't talk to me about those damn highly reflective CT stickers. They set speed cameras off you know!  
  21. piman wrote:Hello Radders, it depends on what type of electric pump you have if it is an S.U. pump. They are designed either to fit near the engine or near the tank and should not be fitted at the wrong end. If some other aftermarket pump, you may also need a fuel pressure regulator? Alec Hello Piman, it's a facet pump. I have the pressure regulator as well.
  22. I have an electric fuel pump to fit on my Mk1 saloon. I've read that the best place to have it is in the boot so it keeps cool. However, with all the spares, tools, junk, etc that I carry on the rallies I dont really want it in the boot as I feel it would be prone to being knocked about. Would it get too hot if mounted under the bonnet area? Has anyone else fitted one and if so where have you mounted it? Suggestions welcomed. (sensible ones that is! :))
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