Richard B
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Everything posted by Richard B
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Certain places I use Blue Hylomar; Waterpump housing to head. Sump gasket (make sure the sump is true and not belled by any bolt holes) Evrywhere else I go for no sealent. Do check the straightness of the front aluminium bridge piece. On Alisons 1500 engine when are working on it, the face to the sump was a very impressive sine wave. ??) I can see why the steel replacement bridge pieces are popular. (Same part for 4 & 6 pot engines)
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What size socket for steering wheel nut
Richard B replied to Brendan The Spit's topic in Running Gear
I think it is 1-1/16". Well thats the socket everybody keeps borrowing from me :) -
need help with overdrive and reverse light wiring.
Richard B replied to jamiepeers's topic in Drivetrain
4536 wrote: Hi is the large brass/gold looking nut where the speedo cable attaches to the gearbox? Yes, on the drivers side. Does it have the angle drive fitted? The drive from the box points to the side of the car, the angle drive screws in and turns it through 90 degress so that it is pointing forward. -
For an Estate you can easily fit two point lap belts. Three point is quite a bit more complicated I'm afraid.
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Are Heritage intending to do another run of new shells? :-/
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Are Heritage intending to do another run of new shells? :-/
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2597 wrote:If I understand correctly, positioning the cam sprocket 180 degrees will give half tooth adjustment - yes? Will flipping the sprocket round (and securing back to front) give it 1/4 tooth accuracy? Or have i lost the plot here :) Yep flip the wheel over and one pair of holes gives 1/4 tooth, the other pair of holes gives 3/4 tooth. Neat huh? ;)
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piman wrote:you can do better than one tooth, I think from memory it is 1/4 tooth. This is achieved by fitting the camwheel using the optional holes (the holes are not symmetrical, and also by reversing the wheel giving four alternative settings. Yes 1/4 tooth. Thats the advantage of a simplex gearset of a duplex gearset. Duplex only goes down to 1/2 tooth. (Unless you buy a vernier kit)
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Oh sorry, they're for the rear.
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There should be a scribed line on the backplate and the flywheel, line them up for TDC
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Alex wrote: So did the diff solve the problem? Yes that fixed the faulty diff :P
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That one was put on her Herald 13/60 Estate, and then sold to pay the rent on her flat for the last year of her degree. :'(
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MkIII Spitfire is the same timing as a MkII GT6 and early MkII PI Saloon
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Trouble is you go into a bend and you can feel the wheel lifting as there is insufficient travel. I like lowered but this is too low. Thats why I think they are TR7/8
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Andy Harrison supplied a good S/H diff. Alison's Dolomite engine is coming apart again :'( New pistons and rebore and could well be a head skim. Head gasket went again..... Ideally would like an unleaded 1500 head if anyone knows of one for sale.
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I bought a pair of S/H good condition Spax adjustable dampers on eBay listed for a 2000/2.5. But they are too short, 15-3/4" end to end measured at the shoulder where the washers go. Now I think Stag/2000/2.5 are normally 19" and the TR7 is a optional variation at 18" (willing to be proven wrong on the length but I know TR7 is 1" shorter than the big cars). I suspect that these shocks may actually be for a lowered TR7. Anyone know what they are for, so I can sell/swap them for something more suitable?
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Slight play in the wheel bearings is correct. Not like modern cars with sealed pack bearings. You can adjust the play by taking the dust cap off, removing the split pin, adusting the play by tightening the nut, and then refitting the split pin and cap. Details should be in the workshop manual. 1/8th of an inch sounds about right. the wheel must rotate free. If you over tighten the nut then the bearings will fail prematurely.
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That_Man wrote:Richard it's worth checking that the dissy drive gear it correctly orientated, if your looking for silly mistakes, most of us have done that one :B There's a gem in the 1500 Spitfire workshop manual, shows where the dizzy drive gear goes with the slot at 90 degrees to the block. (so we did) Then under the electrical section, there are two different drawings; one with the slot at 90 degrees for the 45DE (electronic) one with the slot at 45 degrees for the 45D (so we took it apart and corrected it) ;D
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Alex wrote:Dont forget if its a really silly mistake we all want know what it was ;D Battery charged up on Sunday night, monday. When I got home from work Alison and I tried again, turned the key couple of coughs and splutters and..... she ran fine. :P I had already timed the ignition so I knew that was ok. Ok now for the silly mistake, I asked Alison to move the Dolomite so she could put some bits and pieces back on and take it for a test spin, Alison "Dad, the clutch feels funny" Me "Did you check that the pin on the clutch actuating arm is not located in the slave cylinder, when you fitted it" Alison "Oh" Two and a half hours later, the pin was in the correct location after the gearbox had been removed and replaced. ps. Alison is now looking for a set of +20 pistons for her engine as it needs a rebore.
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Cheers Alec, thats what we did (I think it was 40thou we measured it at). Bloody car wont start, so I got to rethinking the previous work, looking for mistakes. Oh well we shall see.
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According to the Spitfire 1500 workshop manual, set valves 7 & 8 to 80thou and then rotate the cam until valves are on the rock. With the engine on No1 TDC. However when we do this there does not appear to be a point when they both are opwning/closing (ie just touching the rockers), seems to always be some clearance. What are we doing wrong? :-/ As I am concerned we have timed the cam wrong. nb Standard Dolomite/Spitfire 1500 Cam.
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I prefer the 2 ton version with 6 wheels, easier to move around as it is still on 4 wheels when dismantled. This is the one I bought; http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-TON-HYDRAULIC-ENGINE-CRANE-HOIST-LIFT-BRAND-NEW-/120643752243?pt=UK_Lifting_Moving_Equipment&hash=item1c16ed9133 The 2 ton limit means it still has a 1/2 ton rating at full reach, easier for fitting Triumph 6 pots. 2402 wrote:You want one that comes with a leveller. I have heard good reports of how useful a leveller is, its on my shopping list.
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Greeks wrote:if you have a piece of flexible hose in the fuel line ( as i do) you can just clamp the line. or put a plain shank bolt into the rubber hose if one end is free.