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Richard B

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Everything posted by Richard B

  1. Richard B
    Have you tried Canley Classics? Alternatively these have a good reputation; http://www.ilondon.co.uk/profile/620699/Holloway/Brost-Forge-Motorspring-Service/
  2. Richard B
    Welcome back. They're around,  but will all need some work; sills and/or floors. eBay, Spitfire graveyard.... etc I saw one at Dave Pictons a while back, but that has probbly gone now.
  3. Richard B
    Welcome back. They're around,  but will all need some work; sills and/or floors. eBay, Spitfire graveyard.... etc I saw one at Dave Pictons a while back, but that has probbly gone now.
  4. Richard B
    You can check the thrusts before changing the bearings. Trouble is you wont know which sizes to get as its's a trial & measure exercise. I'd suggest get a couple of STD and a couple of 5thou.  :-/
  5. Richard B
    1555 wrote:can you change the main bearings in situ by just removing the caps and push out the top half bearing Yes did it on a MkII PI Estate years ago. You have to take off one of the struts, undo the suspension X-cross member and swing it out of the way of the sump. Don't forget to take the fan belt off or you can't drop/loosen the crank enough to get the front bearing out. Do the thrust washers at the same time.  :-/
  6. Richard B
    So long as the pinnion is stlll in place there should be no oil leak. The pinion casing has an O ring (which can be the source of a minor drip, drip on the drive).
  7. Richard B
    Jonny_Jimbo1181845366 wrote:Out of interest, should they be Loctited into place? I guess so, but I do have a calibrated Sykes-Picavant torque wrench which should do them right (tested at uni, is correct to 3 - 5% depending on loads). I just do them up FT (fairly tight)  8) with a torque bar. Maybe a call to Mr Witor for some new bolts. I'm surprised that clutch has gone already, I would have thought that Alex would have put a new clutch in when the engine was built. It might be the pressure plate was too weak for the engine?  :-/
  8. Richard B
    You might find a spring manufacturer who will remake them. I had a return spring made of my 40 year old (but good) pillar drill, not cheap but worth it.  :-/
  9. Richard B
    Jonny_Jimbo1181843911 wrote:The weight wasn't an issue, and I lifted it out of the pit okay myself. Even though it is a physically large gearbox, it is much MUCH lighter than the Getrag box used on my BMW! Anyway, my next worry is being able to get the reverse switch wires back on, but as I'm remaking the gearbox loom I may put some extra length on the wires so I can attache the loom when the box is in 'down position'. There's a reason Triumph used aluminium for the gearbox casting  8) You should be able to get the wires on easily whilst the gearbox is tipped before the x-cross member is bolted up.
  10. Richard B
    Greeks wrote:... anyone else ever worn the paint off the oil filter from it rubbing on the chassis? What stae is your gearbox mount in? Do you have the correct packing pieces so that everything is aligned ?
  11. Richard B
    I remove the gearbox from underneath using a sustantial set of axle stands. I use a 3 ton trolley jack to support the gearbox during removal and fitting.
  12. Richard B
    Make sure that you have the correct cylinder head nuts. They are on 3/8" UNF on a MkI at 45-46lb/ft You can use "Wellseal" if you are concerned about a repeat failure. OE copper asbestos gaskets are the best if you can find one. Quite often people skip the retorque on a MkI head as its too much trouble to take the manifolds off a second time.
  13. Richard B
    Hopefully the stainless ones will be less likely to sieze up if the car is left standing at any time. Don't know how much you intend to use it when done its ready? but normal fluid is supposed to be changed every two years to prevent water in the system causing corrosion. Silicon fluid would help prevent that, but....
  14. Richard B
    There was a red MkI GT6 that went from Woking to Essex a couple of years ago. That had tired (grotesquely patched) floors, proberbly not the same car as that one was Mot'd and running.
  15. Richard B

    Hidden hinges

    Richard B replied to 99176's topic in Body

    pm sent.
  16. Richard B
    Clean the filters?
  17. Richard B
    If it is a PAS front end-plate, it will have a triangular piece about 1/4" thick welded on the O/S with the 3 bolt holes.
  18. Richard B
    Try Andy Harrision or Chris Witor
  19. Richard B
    2597 wrote:Ooooh. Noticed a small amount of oil sqeezing its way out of the head between the head and top of the head gasket. Have you been rotating the engine, if so; That oil could be coming from the oilway at the back of the block on the N/S. This feeds oil to the the rocker shaft through the head. You should only need the standard torque on the head 45 - 46lb/ft. But make sure you either have OE cylinder head nuts. Canley will supply these as "Heavy Duty", they are deeper than the normal 3/8" UNF nuts. If you use the normal ones they are likely to strip the thread and slip.
  20. Richard B

    MK3 Door Skin

    Richard B replied to MK3's topic in Body

    Depends how comprehensively it is fixed to the frame. It should only need a couple of tacks top, middle and bottom. See if you can ease the lip open with a screwdriver or pry bar. You can get a Sykes Pickavant tool to refold the lip. More likely you'll end up replacing the skin.
  21. Richard B

    MK3 Door Skin

    Richard B replied to MK3's topic in Body

    Depends how comprehensively it is fixed to the frame. It should only need a couple of tacks top, middle and bottom. See if you can ease the lip open with a screwdriver or pry bar. You can get a Sykes Pickavant tool to refold the lip. More likely you'll end up replacing the skin.
  22. Richard B
    You can fit the later type round wiper motor if your not fussed about originality. Dave at Canley Classics should be able to supply a recon (exchange) moter, be warned they're not cheap as they fit a TR5!  ??)
  23. Richard B
    You can try putting a steel tube over the allen key to give you a bit more torque. But as said above, do make sure you have the right size. Once things start rounding off then you have trouble.
  24. Richard B
    You need; http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/Trolley-Jack-Yankee-3ton-Low-Entry-Sealey-3001LE http://compare.ebay.co.uk/like/271025827818?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar&adtype=pla
  25. Richard B
    thescrapman wrote: Diff back under car (how I hate that job), and now indoors massaging bruises and crushed fingers. Only dropped it on myself 3 ro 4 times, so getting better. :-( There must be a way of preventing hurting myself so much, perhaps an assistant is required.... :-) I just put it on the jack and roll it under the shell and then jack it up. No problem. or am I missing something?  :-/
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