Richard B
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Everything posted by Richard B
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As the GT6 never came with HS6's, I'm afraid there is no standard conversion.
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From another thread 570 wrote:Don't ignore twin 175 Strombies either [Sorry, link no longer available] Dazzer rallys a MkI 2000
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Just build a 32 valve Stag engine. :D
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We have a few Hi-Torque starters in the fleet. Well worth it for big engines and hi-compression engines. Do make sure everything else is in good condition. ie. all battery leads having soldered terminals and good cables.
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Sounds like the clutch unit is worn; Either Replace with S/H unit or exchange reconditioned DIY rebuild of the overdrive Have your O/D rebuilt. Either by one of the O/D specialists or someone like Mike Papworth or Canley Classics Andy, have you checked the electrics first?
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1526 wrote: to my Mk1 but that is an early pre-PI 2000 so would not have had the injection option when new, and it is what the works cars fitted around this period. I'm sure I heard that they rallied a MkI 2000 PI whilst in development (circa 65 - 67). Not as good on torque as a 2.5 though.
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If you have the car stripped down I would have it serviced. At the miniumum you want the seals changed and probably the bearings. Give Mike Papworth or Canley Classics a call. Both of them rebuild the units themselves, rather than farming the work out.
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Thanks for the correction Bill. Caught out again by Triumph's development programme! :B
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Up the compression a bit :-/
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nang wrote:Previous owner of my mk4 must have had a problem with an axle shaft as his garage replaced the RHS with a Herald one. Long axles are like rocking horse poo over here. MkIV Spitfire's had the short driveshaft same as Herald and early Spitfires. Only 1500 Spitfires had the long one. ps pm sent.
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No you should'nt have to. Do ypu have an oil thermostat included in the kit? Ideally you want both an oil pressure gauge and an oil temperature gauge.
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Don't get a second hand one....
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Could Cammmy help with the shipping? Sorry , link no longer available I'd go for a new, correct length halfshaft (from Canleys). Any workaround will be a bodge of greater or lesser extent. Fit new bearings as well.
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I have had a problem for a couple of months of clutch slip in the 2000 Estate. This was not the normal prpblem of wear as the car remained in use and although the slip continued to get worse it did not progress at the normal rate. Eventually bit the bullet and took the box out, the friction plate had a good 10,000 miles of life left in it, but.... The release bearing was slightly loose on the carrier. It had moved about a 1/4" up the sleeve and was always holding the clutch slightly on. The wear in the carrier was such that the bearing would slid up easily, but tend to stick when pushed back!
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Edinburgh Control Point
Richard B replied to thebrookster's topic in Round Britain Reliability Run (RBRR)
thebrookster wrote: I knew a few guys from Stoneleigh but a lot went unrecognised! Turns out I spoke to Andy Cook, Richard Brake and few others and never knew who they were!! Sorry Phil, I didn't know who you were either or I would have had more of a chat. :B We need "Forum Name Badges" for these events ;D -
JensH wrote: The OD-mount never came in 2 pieces (A + B) as far as I know; might have been for the very early cars though. They definitely did. Probably redesigned subsequently at the instigation of cost accountants. :'(
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http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/technology-19979380
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I use an HCB072 from Halfords (540amp cranking). This one has a 4 year warranty. If you know someone with a trade card there is quite a saving on the price. Get some battery leads with soldered terminals rather than compression fittings if you can.
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ajp wrote:No rain @ Glencoe! That part of Scotland in the sunshine was glorious!
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24hrs after the event.......
Richard B replied to AlanChatterton's topic in Round Britain Reliability Run (RBRR)
Quote:I have been a Triumph man for over 20 years now, but my cars are the 2000/2500/2.5 and Stag range. I am currently restoring a very special 200 range estate car, which was just not going to be ready in time, hence my purchase of this Triumph. Thats where you've gone wrong with DEL33! ;D -
Decent mechanic in brighton area to fit exhaust
Richard B replied to THE HORNET 81's topic in Engine
391 wrote:I find the semi sport on my estate noiser than the full sport on the saloon. :-/ The exhaust noise drums through the Estate, far more than a Saloon. I tthink a 3 silencer system is better for an Estate. ??) -
An S crossmember will fit a TC fine as the holes were moved on the later cars to accomodate the swan neck inlet manifold and the HS6 carburretors. Thats why they have that aweful thin air collector bolted to the carbs. The PI crossmember has the holes more central although the engine is still canted in all the saloons.
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Decent mechanic in brighton area to fit exhaust
Richard B replied to THE HORNET 81's topic in Engine
For 2000's, Factory exhaust had two silencers in the middle and no rear silencer on the rear section. This is ignoring early 2000 with the odd shaped silencer under the passenger seat (ever wondered what that recess was for ;D ). This is also ignoring late 2000 which had three silencers, two in middle and one at the rear same as 2.5PI's and 2500S's. Do make sure you get the correct exhaust hanger/clamp from Chris Witor for the sub-frame. Also you should have a bracket for the exhaust where it goes past the gearbox. Basically make sure you have all the straps, clamps hangers gaskets you require and it should be a doddle. The down pipe studs on the exhaust manifold have been know to snap (which is a bit of a pain to replace) I prefer brass manifold nuts, easier to remove in the future. 8) -
michael_charlton wrote:1972 MK 3 ? The MK3 had finished before then Mike its a GT6 MkIII not a Spitfire MkIII Is it rotoflex? Have a look at the Canleys or Rimmers websites or post a picture so that we can confirm what part you want. It sounds like the driveshaft flange that holds the U/J and bolts to the diff flange. This part has a history of being destroyed spectacularly, whlist the U/J fails.