Jump to content

Richard B

Club Member
  • Posts

    3,947
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    7

Everything posted by Richard B

  1. Sounds like a visit to the Citizen's Advice Beureau and possibly the small claims court?
  2. PAS should have a rubber doughnut at the top not a U/J
  3. Sounds about right. You don't want them working loose!   ??)
  4. 3398 wrote:Think I need more patience.......mine are all chewed up again   :-/ Richard_B wrote: gently tapping
  5. Well I suppose you could use a supercooled, high energy magnet?  ;)
  6. I've been removing them by gently tapping around the rim with a screwdriver and a light hammer. This eases the cap out without too much grief.
  7. Slimboyfat wrote:Linkage Richard? There aint much of that! Thanks Dave.  :)
  8. 2445 wrote:I have all the throttle linkage , cable, spacer taken from the mini but bolted onto the dolly manifold with the inlet board out to 1 3/4 HIF SU metro carb. Thanks, photo please...  :)
  9. Any ideas/photo's on sourcing the throttle linkage? Jessica is planning this for her Coupe.
  10. I have a standard GT6 silencer in S/S with a 6-3-1 (Mike-the-Pipe). It's not loud but sounds luv'er'ly  8) Can you fit a TR6 6-3-1 into a LHD GT6 (anyone)? They are supposed top be a better version. Its the steering column you see.  :-/
  11. Richard B

    Broken diff

    I had one like that a couple of years ago on the way back from an Autosolo in the PI Spitfire. Diff went bang and as I tried to drive off again, it pumped oil out of the hole in the casing  :'(
  12. Richard B

    Tailgate

    No there's a pair of torsion bars under the plastic cover. At a guess one has broken. Either get S/H or have a spring maker make a replacement. AFAIR You need a piece of wood between the bars to remove/refit if they are intact. You'll probably find Mike Weaver has documented it in his 4x4 Estate Blog.
  13. Panic over. I'll order from Chris on Wednesday. As usual, delays have crept into the project...  :X
  14. Have a look on eBay. I think the 2000/2.5 style pump is the same.
  15. 2943 wrote:  ! there are stud extracters available that look like ordinary sockets that use rollers to grip the threads of the studs and could be maybe easier to use on the stag engine due to space restictions and then there's the knurled cam variety (which i have) and it did some damage to the threads but not enough to have to replace the studs. The socket style with rollers is the type I recommended above. The knurled type is not as good and requires more access.
  16. thescrapman wrote:I had a bag of bushes come with a car, but can't remember exactly what was in the bag. ;D Let me know.
  17. http://www.canleyclassics.com/searchforapart/?desc=REVERSE%2FINHIBITOR+LIGHT+SWITCH&ptno=BAU1074 James Paddocks also list that part No. I'm sure I bought one from Dave last year for Alison's Dolomite J'Type O/D.
  18. Is there anyone within easy (50 miles) travelling distance of Guildford who has anybody got a set of Superflex trailing arm bushes for a Stag / 2000 / 2.5 that they can loan? I will order a set for Chris Witor next week and send direct to anyone who can help. or pay cash. Just that I have had to take rather more off of the wife's Estate to change the diff and I may as well change the bushes whilst I doing it. I'd like to get the job all done this weekend.
  19. 1344 wrote:I broke my reverse switch  :( I can't seem to find any for sale,I am just not looking in the right place ! Tried Canleys, Moss, TD Fitchett?
  20. smithy wrote:Hmmm, I like yours M., but I do like straps 'cos then there's some fore-and aft for banging the boxes into things and having them stay on. Also not smashing the diff carrier, maybe. I don't ever like disagreeing with you though matey!  ;D Whilst I also respect Marcus's 'tinkering'/engineering skills, I think straps are better there to accomodate rock in the engine. We'll probably find Marcus's engine is suitably secured and this is not a problem for him.  :-/
  21. Normal service has been resumed  8)
  22. Normal service has been resumed  8)
  23. Swiss_Tony wrote:Is it worth buying the stud extractors if the 2 nuts fail? I assume I will fit new studs anyway, so dont mind damaging the threads. It was a Stag owner (professional mechanic) who got me onto those stud extractors. Make sure its that type though. and yes the old studs are a write off. I bought the S/S studs from E.J.Ward expensive but I thought worth trying. I had new plated steel studs stick after less than a year on the engine. :'(
  24. Have you tried these? They have got most of my Stag head studs out. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stud-Extractor-Removal-Tool-4pc-Set-3-8-1-2-Drive-/261010958297?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3cc57727d9 Supplied by various companys, Sykes Pykavent, Snap-on etc...
  25. Just push it in and do the nut up tight (check workshop manual for torque). Use a new nyloc nut.
×
×
  • Create New...