Richard B
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Everything posted by Richard B
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How worn are the fingers? How loose/worn does the release bearing feel? Spigot bushes don't tend to wear to much, you would have to take it out to see how worn it is. How many miles have you done with that engine/gearbox? Do you want to put the replacement gearbox in, only to have to change the clutch in a few months time because you did not renew it now? :-/
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alpinemauve wrote:It's a brand new starter and the old spacer has been retained. I've checked and double checked all the connections to solenoid, earth to car and everywhere and it all seems ok. I am wondering if the battery is now the issue Just to confirm, this is the same unit (model) as your original? You can check it off the car with a pair of jump leads. ******* Health & Safety ******** Either do it in a secure vise or I have done it on the ground trapped under a steel toecapped boot. You want to check that the pinion moves forward as well as spinning. Ideally you want two people to do this, one to do the leads and someone else to secure the starter you are testing (they do kick). Excuse me if you already know this, but inertia starters spin the pinion and move it forward at the same time. Pre-engaged starters throw the pinion forward and then start it spinning. With an inertia starter its possible for it to spin but stick and not move forward.
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alpinemauve wrote:W all I get is the whine of the new starter motor spinning. Tried everything Sounds like its not engaging the teeth of the flywheel. Do you have the correct spacer fitted, what was the travel on the pinion on the old starter compared to the new unit?
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Ah sorry single rail, not three rail. Just out of curiosity, which input shaft does it have?
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Mark Bland has a Vitesse close ratio gearset in his 1500 Spitfire. I think the box is a 3-rail 4 synchro. See the Silverstone autosolo report regarding his 'long' first gear. (I understand he was regretting that choice of box for other reasons). Although Matt has proved it works ;) I know you can put Dolomite 1850 single rail internals into a 3 rail GT6 box to give a J'Type O/D box. This ends up with the 1850 (multi spline input shaft). But you have to buy some 'special' parts. To quote Velvet Underground "The possibilities are endless" ;D What do you want to achieve?
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2020 wrote:Mark's car is set up very nicely and has an nice long first gear so pretty dam handy for autosolos. :)
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Nick_Jones wrote:This compares with OD which is 0.8:1 (actually D type 0.802 and J-type 0.797) or 5th on a Toyota W58 at 0.78:1. And yes, I know there is another variant of the J-type which is taller but I can't find the number just now...... D type is 22% J Type 25% or 28% Not sure what the A'Type was as used on the Slaoons and TR's
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jcarruthers wrote:It's only for Triumphs :) Not kit cars ;D
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Hmm, can you contact you supplier and change it? I know the internals are interchangeable with other cars. One supply sells a fast road "quick" rack which uses a Spitfire assembly. You may have one from a different car by mistake or error.
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Yes the racks are the same. The column inside the engine bays were different, but I think you can only get the MkII assembly now so you have to fit that to MkI's. and you can fits MkII PAS to a MkI !
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339 wrote:Laurence i haven't ever driven a GT6 with a triumph gearbox so I was guessing, to a degree, at the mph per 1000rpm. I stand corrected on the ratio :B :B In a Triumph box 4th is 1 to 1. with O/D adding an extra gear. Presumably in a Type 9 4th is also 1 - 1 with 5th being comparable to O/D? One for James Carruthers to add to his spreadsheet?
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I would go for the 175CD's much easier to keep in tune. But then I've always been different :B
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5915 wrote:and struggling to find a scuttle panel under the windscreen Try using the windscreen surround as a reference. Although I expect that's pretty bad as well.
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How bad is it? I think I would go for letting new metal in where required.
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thescrapman wrote:Ensure any modifications you do to the bodyshell and chassis look like they are factory standard, and show no signs of modification. Might be very useful in the future and some cars (not yet Triumphs) are already failing MOT's on that and having to submit to IVA tests to get back on the road, which is very difficult to do. This is my concern regarding; cutting the back of the chassis off and welding/bolting a rear suspension sub-frame onto a Spitfire/GT6 with a Subaru diff and coil over shock suspension. ??)
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What car is it going in what space have you in the engine bay, what induction system are you planning on (CD carbs, PI, EFI, Webers), whats your budget? Get the bottom end balanced, plan on a spin-on oil filter, possibly an oil cooler, good 6-3-1 exhaust manifold, unleaded & flowed head, Think about what cam you want depends on the answers to the questions above.
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Think those were dropped from production. The only ones normally I see in the engine are on the cam wheel bolts.
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gt6878e wrote:...it has a blanked off plate next to the fuel pump. Sounds like it. Oh yes see piccy, on the early saloons thats a breather, probably no space on a GT6. Thats the early crank version of the MkI.
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Correct GT6 MK3 Rear Spring? Driveshaft Model
Richard B replied to John Bonnett's topic in Drivetrain
3141 wrote:I'm sure you are right Clive. I've just dug out the old spring that was originally fitted to the car and it is 5 leaf. If I understand correctly SlimboyFat works at Canley's. Anybody know his real name or when I ring Canley's shall I just ask for SlimboyFat :) Phone Canley's and ask for Dave.... ;) -
Correct GT6 MK3 Rear Spring? Driveshaft Model
Richard B replied to John Bonnett's topic in Drivetrain
Just curious, is this a Rotoflex or a Swing-Spring model? -
Chris Witor, Canley Classics, James Paddock, Try and get the heavy duty bearings if you can they are the County equivalent of the tri-metal. Does your block have the breather on the side by the petrol pump? If so it will have the smaller main bearing, 2" rather than 2.3". Means it revs nicer, less drag. :) Only fitted to MkI's upto KC5000 I believe. :-/
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When in doubt, whip it out ::)
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5458 wrote: but they don't fit under the bloody bonnet! it's ridiculous! Designed for the TR market, GT's are an afterthought. nb. the SAH ones have chamfered ends to fit under the bonnet.
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timbancroft61 wrote: 6 pot chromed Std Tri jobbies are nice. Only fitted to PI's and GT6's (the classy cars) 8)
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The SAH ones are period cool. 8)