heraldcoupe
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Everything posted by heraldcoupe
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Surely if you have piston slap a rebore is on the cards in any case? Cheers, Bill.
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Cheers, ill remove a good piston and double check to see if it is actually 10thou o/s, then I may have to try and source a 10thou o/s piston from somewhere.
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10 thou oversize is one of the regular replacement sizes, though they may not be currently available. Std, +.020, +.030, +.040 and +.060 are currently listed, Cheers, Bill.
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Hi im new on here, I have a 1963 herald 1200 coupe and I am rebuilding the motor to fix a big end knock and piston slap. I just wanted to know if they have ever made 10thou over size pistons? Ive been told that you cant get 10thou over size pistons but the number on top looks like a 10(Pretty hard to read because its pitted) and it measures about 10thou bigger than a standard piston. The piston has been seized and is pretty scuffed up so its hard to measure. Cheers
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cliftyhanger wrote:I think it that 47" prop which is handy for a herald OD conversion. Indeed it is, which is why I remember (most of) the details so readily.... Cheers, Bill.
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The saloon propshaft is the same length with and without overdrive. It's 47" long, which is the same length as Vitesse non-overdrive. The part numbers cross reference to some degree, but there was an internal damper in some of the 2000 propshafts, which confises attempts to cross reference parts lists, Cheers, Bill.
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I was told that the currently available moulded carpet sets don't take account of this panel. Any truth in this? Cheers, Bill.
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The correct clips have been unavailable new for at least a decade. Cheers, Bill.
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There are brackets at the corners and behind each overrider. Before I explain any further though, you really need to buy a copy of the factory workshop manual. Original ring-bound copies are found easily on ebay or at autojumbles, reprints through specialists. The factory parts list is a very worthwhile companion volume. Electronic copies are also available on CD, Cheers, Bill.
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piman wrote:Sourcing them could be a problem however, especially imperial here in the U.K.? Very difficult form my experience, though they seem to be much easier to find in the US; no surprise in that. Cheers, Bill.
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JohnD wrote:And fit bronze - it doesn't take a polish! The dull redness of bronze actually looks a lot better to my eye, more like the original steel nuts. Cheers, Bill.
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Bronze would be a better material than brass, but it's likely you'll have to go searching outside the mainstream classic car suppliers to obtain them in UNF sizes. Cheers, Bill.
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Posting this one on behalf of a friend. Rebuilding a GT6 Mk2 with Canley's CV joint rear axle conversion. Dampers are Koni, bought as specifically fitting the original GT6 application - they don't. The car was rebuilt with original damper mounting points rather than the popular chassis-mount conversion brackets, as the dampers were supposed to fit in this application. There is the obvious option of retro fitting the chassis brackets, however given this is an as-new build where the bodywork has been fully painted and assembled, it would be the course of last resort. Can anyone offer a part number for a Koni damper which will either fit the original wheelarch mounting point, or one which will fit between the Rotoflex vertical link and the standard chassis mounting point used on the Mk1 and other non-Rotoflex cars. Without the doughnuts in the way, the damper should clear the drivetrain between these points, but will a damper to Herald/Spitfire dimensions fit in terms of extension and compression? If so, is there a Koni number? I know this should all cross reference with Triumph suppliers, but to date I've seen several supposedly correct sets supplied for this car, none of which fit according to their specification..... Cheers, Bill.
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Brass nuts are fine provided you fit them onto new studs with clean threads. If you fit them on old studs with pitted threads, the brass threads will get chewed up very quickly, Cheers, Bill.
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Jonny_Jimbo wrote:It's possible to tig weld it using stainless filler rod. Would there not be an issue with sacraficial corrosion though with having stainless steel welded to a mild steel body? It's a theoretical problem, however completely sealing the join under paint (both sides) should prevent this. There's a nice concise article here - not aimed at our applications, but very relevant: http://www.bssa.org.uk/topics.php?article=101 Nevertheless, I feel it would be foolish to market stainless panels for this application as the supplier has no control over their end use. Cheers, Bill.
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The tapered end of the rear body trim was secured by a stud with a spire clip retaining it. I say was as most seem to have separated from the trim by now. In this case they are liable to float round freely, or to have been subject to some other (often innovative) method of attachment. If the stud is intact you will need to remove the clip from inside the boot before attempting any of the other clips. The trim can be levered upwards gently near each clip and they will come away easily, Cheers, Bill.
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This one has always puzzled me, I've taken apart numerous Heralds without observing a seal behind the striker plate. There is often a layer of Dum-Dum or similar, I have wondered whether the seal is actually a shaped putty rather than a rubber or card gasket. Otherwise it may be an early feature which was subsequently deleted but not reflected in the parts list. Cheers, Bill.
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This one has always puzzled me, I've taken apart numerous Heralds without observing a seal behind the striker plate. There is often a layer of Dum-Dum or similar, I have wondered whether the seal is actually a shaped putty rather than a rubber or card gasket. Otherwise it may be an early feature which was subsequently deleted but not reflected in the parts list. Cheers, Bill.
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2880 wrote:Which valance will suit my herald 1200 MKII chassis best; the 13/60 one or the Vitesse MKII one ? The fit of the 13/60 valance to the bonnet gives a cleaner line, there will be no clearance issue with your car in using this type. If you want a Vitesse lookalike though and hope to convince observers that it has a straight six engine, then the Vitesse valance would be the way to go. Quote:Also, I would automatically choose metal over fibreglass for the material. However what is the general consensus on this ? I don't know why, but the fibreglass valances I have seen in recent years have all been cut so they are an inch short front to back. They end forward of the wheelarch and look terrible. There's no reason I can see for doing this, I suspect the mould was poorly created in the first place. If you go for a metal valance, the new ones are all modified from 1200 tooling, the back edge is altered to fit the different applications. In my experience, some work has been needed to make them fit correctly. Originals are difficult to find in good order, Cheers, Bill.
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93 wrote:Happened to have a couple of pics of the two types of valance brackets. The stepped ones are for the Vitesse. No - stepped brackets are 13/60 only. The Vitesse brackets have different part numbers to the 1200/948 types, but I'm unsure how they differ as these all superficially look the same, Cheers, Bill.
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The Vitesse valance has a scalloped back edge with a flange along it to clear the forward mounted radiator. The 13/60 valance has a stepped back edge which sits very close to the bottom edge of the bonnet, less than 1cm gap on a good one. The 1200 valance the step of the 13/60 but has a flange to mount the grille, but I guess you'll have noticed that already! Not a good fit under a Vitesse or 13/60 bonnet. With the regular Herald radiator fitted I see no reason why a 13/60 valance wouldn't work, not possible with a proper Vitesse though. Cheers, Bill.
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When the metal badge fixings are used, the locating holes are fractionally larger than the badge pins, so the badges are properly centralised. The badge holes were enlarged when plastic bushes were introduced. As your fixing holes are now over-size for either type of fixing, I wouldn't recommend relying on the metal fixings alone. The increased clearance will allow some lateral movement of the badge, the badge fixings are likely to loosen through vibration through the car in use. This is typically what happens when metal fixings are used in a location where the larger holes are intended for plastic fixings. I would recommend using an adhesive or sealant to fill the gap between the pin and the edge of it's locating hole, then apply the clip from behind to pull it all into place. Cheers, Bill.
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4457 wrote:Does the gap between my p seal and screen frame edge look about right? Pic was taken with the leg of the seal held up against the corner It looks about right. I fit the P-seal first, then push the main seal over it, it makes the alignment easier with contact adhesive. The P-seal was originally fitted with an excess of about an inch sticking up above the capping of the windscreen frame. Looks very strange but I promise you that's how it was done! When fitted together with a bubble seal, there can be a lot of outward pressure on the glass. The P-seal's main function is to stop the glass rubbing against the windscreen frame, though it provides more of a sealing function lower down on the A-post. Cheers, Bill.
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4457 wrote:Does the gap between my p seal and screen frame edge look about right? Pic was taken with the leg of the seal held up against the corner It looks about right. I fit the P-seal first, then push the main seal over it, it makes the alignment easier with contact adhesive. The P-seal was originally fitted with an excess of about an inch sticking up above the capping of the windscreen frame. Looks very strange but I promise you that's how it was done! When fitted together with a bubble seal, there can be a lot of outward pressure on the glass. The P-seal's main function is to stop the glass rubbing against the windscreen frame, though it provides more of a sealing function lower down on the A-post. Cheers, Bill.
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4457 wrote:Looks like the bulge of the p seal sits slightly over the edge of the screen frame . It shouldn't. The correct P-seal profile's leg butts into the corner between the flange and windscreen pillar, the bulb ends up being just inboard of the gutter. The lip of the main door seal sits over the bulb, so only a qurter of the P-seal's bulb remains visible on the windscreen frame. I'm not convinced the door seals on this car are original, look at the back upper corner which should be fully formed. That would correspond with the P-seal either being incorrectly placed, or over-sized as there are still some incorrect profiles being marketed. Quote:Can't really understand why the seal goes down that far? That aspect is correct, I'd speculate that it's intended to stop water running down into the courtesy light switch. The A-post in general is often the source of a wet leg in a Spitfire or GT6. Cheers, Bill.