heraldcoupe
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Everything posted by heraldcoupe
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6797 wrote:Been offered (reasonably locally) "Full kit with everything £395 " to do the O/D conversion - does that sound reasonable? Cheap? Over the odds? Probably about right for a private sale, incredibly cheap if it's a trader and comes with a warranty! As a benchmark, you'd be paying upwards of £1300 for a kit where everything was new or reconditioned, Cheers, Bill.
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The bottom corners of the rear trims on Spitfires are retained by chrome self tappers with cup washers, whether the GT6 is the same I don't know. the screws are needed s the panel needs to pull into a corner where the clips wouldn't be strong enough to hold the shape, Cheers, Bill.
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Guessing your name gives a clue to where you're located, the full conversion kit which is for sale local to me is going to be a little far for you to travel. But if you fancy a trip to Wiltshire, I can put you in touch, Cheers, Bill.
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490 wrote:mine are stamped BSK1, BSK2 and what looks like BSK 104/3. Those sound like die numbers rather than part numbers, just to identify which set of tools the part was cast from in case of production issues. There is no difference between coil and diaphragm release arms, the difference lies with the bearing carrier. Cheers, Bill.
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piman wrote:all the failed engine mounts I have had failed at the bond to the steel and I wonder if polyurethane would be any better? All depends on how well the process is carried out. I'm currently experimenting with bonding polyurethane to steel, it's a process used in some pretty demanding industrial applications. If it's done properly then holding up an engine will be easily within it's capabilities, Cheers, Bill.
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It was a modification brought in after a few years of Herald production, brake only as already noted. Cheers, Bill.
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From memory they have a passivated grey finish. I should have a few NOS contemporary SU pumps of the same basic design, but not set up for Triumphs. I'm starting to load up for Stafford tomorrow, if I put my hands on one whilst going through stock I'll take a picture, Cheers, Bill.
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1903 wrote:BUT - Does anyone know for certain that the roll bars were twisted from the factory Yes, I've read the service bulletin relating to it's introduction. I don't own a copy of it though to quote chapter and verse.,, Cheers, Bill.
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A twist in the ARB was introduced quite early in Herald production. It was presumably continued to other models based on the same running gear, Cheers, Bill.
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Just to throw a spanner in the works, I grease all card and paper gaskets. Head gaskets generally go on dry, or with a coat of shellac (Wellseal) on shim steel or copper gaskets, Cheers, Bill.
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That will fit a Herald or Sptifire with diaphragm clutch. The arm itself will also fit those with the coil-spring clutch, but the bearing and carrier would need to be changed, Cheers, Bill.
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490 wrote:not keen on having to file the slave cylinder... I just want to fit and forget things... ;D I thought you were talking about NOS clutch components, rather than the modern approximations. Opening the slot in the slave cylinder is often needed to make the modern components operate correctly, whereas a clutch to the original (coil or diaphragm) should operate correctly when used as a matched set of parts, Cheers, Bill.
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1218 wrote:BTW Bill, I've still got a Toledo front panel of yours! When do you want me to drop it off? I might be in Swindon later this month/early September. You gonna be around? Most weeks I spend a couple of days working with Paul Cull in Wootton Bassett, but which days are highly variable! If you can let me know a day or two before your down this way I can tailor my week around you, Cheers, Bill.
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1218 wrote:Unless it is a late 13/60 engine in which case it becomes a large crank motor.... ;D ;D ;D ...except Jordan stated it was a small crank motor in his first post! Cheers, Bill.
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490 wrote:But the diaphragm sort appears to be this type: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/triumph-herald-clutch-fork-/261075014619?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3cc94893db#ht_500wt_1413 Am I correct?? This is the only photo of a different type that I can find, and all mine in my garage are the alloy type. That's not suitable for any Herald I've encountered. The clutch fork is the same on all Heralds from mid-1960 onwards, only the bearing carrier differs. The fork in the first listing is the correct type. Until mid-1960, the all-alloy gearbox casing was in use, and that had a clutch fork with integral hinge. Not relevant to any herald with separate bellhousings, whether iron or alloy. Didn't we go through exactly the same conversation on the Yahoo group last week? Cheers, Bill.
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New panels are often supplied with tabs like this, they're to maintain shape in transit and storage. When installed on the car, they are reinforced by other structures ie the mounting brackets which bridge the gaps behind the tabs, but the panel is quite flimsy when left unsupported in these areas. Cut and dress back the tabs as part of the trial fitting process, but keep in mind the reduced rigidity when handling, Cheers, Bill.
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The sumps are different and will presumably need to be swapped, they certainly do when putting a Toledo engine into a Herald. I can't see any other problems. Small crank is certainly an upgrade, stick with the Toledo inlet manifold though, Cheers, Bill.
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Coil spring clutch plate is interchangeable with some A-series types, so readily available for Sprite, Midget and Minor. GCP222 is 10-spline diaphragm for a Spitfire, it will be perfectly happy in a Herald but only with a diaphragm cover. The application for the others are as you've listed. You can swap to the full diaphragm setup by using the appropriate slave cylinder, flywheel and release bearing carrier. Cheers, Bill.
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The whole column could be swapped without too much effort, but the failure rate of the later switches is much higher than that of the original style, Cheers, Bill.
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rotoflex wrote: What is that procedure? Put your knee against the corner that sticks out and pull the corner above, tweak until it fits. Cheers, Bill.
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3122 wrote:Can you get the right ones? I've got original seals, but they're quite a long way beyond their optimum performance days! You can get a very good match for the profile, but without the fabric finisher. The finisher itself is available (woven up to Mk3, plush for MkIV & 1500) but has to be stitched and/or glued to the body of the seal - one for the masochists, Cheers, Bill.
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This is the lip seal profile you should have, Cheers, Bill.
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Do your seals have a lip profile, or a bubble section? The former is correct, the latter isn't. If you have lip seals and the doors still won't shut, then look at other possible causes. There are very few sources for lip seals and I've yet to see one which caused a problem (first time for everything though). Many suppliers offer an oversize bubble profile instead and this is usually problematic, Cheers, Bill.
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Vitesse non overdrive prop is the same length as 2000/2500 manual, both with and without overdrive. Part numbers may not correspond as there was a damping feature in some of the 2000 family propshafts, others are identical to the Vitesse. Cheers, Bill.
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I've owned cars with new windows stitched in place, it's a job for a trimmer though, Cheers, Bill.