heraldcoupe
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Everything posted by heraldcoupe
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2191 wrote:Is it not possible to change the flanges to small ones? Yes, but you'd still end up with thin shafts. Triumph got rid of these for good reason after the 1300 engine was introduced to the Spitfire, Cheers, Bill.
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Most mk3s have the large diameter shafts with small flanges, the early ones have small shafts with small flanges. The Vitesse 6 has the small diameter shafts with large flanges, a unique combination. Avoid this one, Cheers, Bill.
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Nick_Moore wrote:What I got was two bits of silverish plastic floppiness and a couple of equally plastic joiners. I didn't think the originals were plastic The earliest ones were stainless steel, but plastic was the norm from the early 1970s onwards. Secondhand steel trims command quite a premium if you can find them. I think that even the plastic originals used stainless joint pieces though, so plastic versions of those would be a deviation from original, Cheers, Bill.
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Nick_Moore wrote:What I got was two bits of silverish plastic floppiness and a couple of equally plastic joiners. I didn't think the originals were plastic The earliest ones were stainless steel, but plastic was the norm from the early 1970s onwards. Secondhand steel trims command quite a premium if you can find them. I think that even the plastic originals used stainless joint pieces though, so plastic versions of those would be a deviation from original, Cheers, Bill.
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The original front screen seal has two channels, a deep channel on the inside of the curve, shallow on the outside. The 'C' profile trim sits with one of it's legs in each channel. Modern replacements are simplified so only the inside channel exists, (supposedly) easier to install the trim but it never sits as well as an original. Cheers, Bill.
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The original front screen seal has two channels, a deep channel on the inside of the curve, shallow on the outside. The 'C' profile trim sits with one of it's legs in each channel. Modern replacements are simplified so only the inside channel exists, (supposedly) easier to install the trim but it never sits as well as an original. Cheers, Bill.
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Unless the Ebay tool includes different attachments, it won't be much use for the front screen on a GT6 Mk3, OK for the rear though. Pretty sure I recognise the Frost tool, it includes attachments which will help with the front finisher - makes a difficult job out of an impossible one! I'm surprised they're that expensive from Frost though, most people complain at spending a lot less than that for the same tool, Cheers, Bill.
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Unless the Ebay tool includes different attachments, it won't be much use for the front screen on a GT6 Mk3, OK for the rear though. Pretty sure I recognise the Frost tool, it includes attachments which will help with the front finisher - makes a difficult job out of an impossible one! I'm surprised they're that expensive from Frost though, most people complain at spending a lot less than that for the same tool, Cheers, Bill.
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Gearbox into the footwell is very easy on a Herald, clutch swap at the side of the road in under 2 hours when I was younger. Cheers, Bill.
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Where the bootlid stay mounts to the body, there is a small black plate about an inch or two long. One end of this bolts to the tank, you will already have undone this end. The other end is attached to the bodywork by two crosshead screws, undo these and remove the bracket. You should now lift the tank upwards at the front, so the drain tube lifts above the boot floor, as the tank pivots around it's filler neck. With the front end raised and clear, slide the neck of the tank through the grommet into the boot. Cheers, Bill.
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The long ones are the closest which are readily available, not a practical replacement as far as I'm concerned though. The original type occasionally turn up as NOS, but pretty sporadic and some time since I've seen any. Cheers, Bill.
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The long ones are the closest which are readily available, not a practical replacement as far as I'm concerned though. The original type occasionally turn up as NOS, but pretty sporadic and some time since I've seen any. Cheers, Bill.
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County have historically supplied rings by Grants and Deves, both reputable brands as far as I am aware. Their piston sets have been extremely well matched in weight when I've handled them, though I have no recollection of what the actual weights have been. Those most vocal in criticising County pistons have been actively marketing a competing product. That taints any opinion they express to my way of thinking, Cheers, Bill.
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E means Engine, nothing else. Most Triumphs have HE or LE, High Compression Engine and Low Compression Engine respectively. Don't assume that a simple E means low comression, there's no evidence for that to be the case. For the record, Y128 (Herald Coupe) has engine number Y201E. There's nothing to distinguish it as different from any other home market engine. Why just an E suffix? I don't know, but I do know what it isn't. To stick a finger in the air and make a guess, it's possible the engines were numbered before heads and other compression specific components were added, ie before they were defined as High or Low compression. That would make sense with Y201E, an engine built very early in the production run, when initial production stocks were being built up. But that's nothing more than a bit of theorising on my part, don't take it as fact. Cheers, Bill.
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Every day's a schoolday, I never knew that one. Never owned an automatic! There's also the FRE suffix, usually used on engines supplied as Factory Reconditioned (Rebuilt?) Engines and stamped on a brass plate. Cheers, Bill
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As an aside, if you have access to an Agricultural Merchant in your area, Phosphoric Acid can be bought cheaply as Milkstone Remover. This is intended for removing calcium deposits from milking machinery, it needs to be substantially diluted, at least 50:50, to bring it down to the strength of the best commercial rust removers. It also includes an indicator dye so you know when the solution has finished working. I last paid around £20 for a gallon, but my supplier has recently switched to 25 litre containers for only a little more money. It means I have to take the car with me to collect though...... Cheers, Bill.
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Leaving parts immersed in phosphoric acid is not the same as applying it thinly to bare steel though. Cheers, Bill.
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93 wrote:You've got me worried now incase there misaligned due to to the wings being out.Blue Looking along the wing from the back edge, there is a step where the wing meets the bonnet top, ie the wing sits out about 1/4" (roughly speaking from memory). If you retained the as-supplied reinforcement at the back edge, without modification, then the wing and top panel will be flush, making good alignment at the sides impossible. Cheers, Bill.
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All current replacement wings include the vertical stiffener at the back edge, however it lacks the necessary inward kink at the top. This forces the wing inwards, causing a misalignment. Most of us unpick the flange and re-use the original stiffener. The reproduction Herald 1200 wings are very poor, however being a simpler modification, there's less to go wrong with the Vitesse panel. I'd still opt for modifying the 13/60 wing, but that's personal choice. Canley Classics make a drop-in floor panel of decent quality, another company makes a very poor panel of similar configuration. Given your requirements, I would opt for the Canley panel as the most straightforward option. Contrary to popular belief, the full floor panels are not made on original tooling. Placing a Stanpart floor next to a reproduction reveals numerous differences (though the replacements are still very good), Cheers, Bill.
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1317 wrote:Bill, Don't the Spitfire and Gt6 blower motors have field windings? I don't have one to hand for test purposes, but most of the other Triumph (Smiths & Delaney) blower motors use permanent magnets. Cheers, Bill.
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If it's got an alternator, the chances of it being positive earth are very small indeed. While there was a positive earth alternator kit offered as an official upgrade, they are very, very scarce. Anything likely to have been fitted in more recent times will have made a negative earth conversion essential. Likewise, if a modern stereo is fitted, it will be have to be insulated from the body (including the aerial) to work with a positive earth electrical system. With a dynamo equipped vehicle there's little consequence to swapping polarities. The heater motor is the only item which is dependant on polarity. Being a centrifugal blower, it will still flow inthe same direction, but the vanes are optimised to blow mre efficiently in one direction than the other, so if spinning backwards, airflow is reduced, Cheers, Bill.
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Corn snake? Or something more worrying?