heraldcoupe
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Everything posted by heraldcoupe
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The oil feed to the rocker shaft is located at the back lefthand corner of the engine. This is a very common leak point between block and head, not a lot you can do about it without taking off the head. This is arguably the only place on the entire engine where gasket compound is a benefit, a smear of Blue Hylomar on the gasket around the hole will help prevent leakage. But until the head comes off for other reasons, I'd just live with it. Cheers, Bill.
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236 wrote:air liquide is cheaper than boc If they are then there's not a lot in it, they are ultimately part of the same group and Air Liquide's pricing structureis very similar to BOCs. Once I've finished the current work on my 'S' I'm ditching my Air Liquide contract and going to Adams. Cheers, Bill.
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You're very unlikely to find a 948 gasket without rust spots, I have about 15-20 of them and they all have spots to some degree, spidering under the shellac finish. Cleaning this off is no problem, Wellseal is also a shellac product, so it will replace what you take off, Cheers, Bill.
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At a guess I'd say 1968 was a bit early, there may be a changeover point recorded in the parts list. I'm not sure what the last published edition of the 13/60 list was, I'll take a look through the library..... Cheers, Bill.
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Plastic fans were used on late 13/60s, they continued onto Toledos and seem to work well enough in that application. Better? Who knows, but certainly cheaper to make, Cheers, Bill.
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2597 wrote:Just a quick question about core plugs. I have opted for the original 'cup' type of plug over the concave dish type, They're not supposed to be interchangeable, the block is machined differently in each case. The 'cup' and 'dish' descriptions are both usually applied to the deeper coreplugs, the early flatter type are commonly described as 'saucer', though I'm sure there are many other colloquialisms for them. Just so we're not at cross purposes, which type are you intending to fit? And is your block machined to receive the shallow or deep type? Cheers, Bill.
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Doorglass will be an issue, presumably MkIV/1500 Spitfire glasses could be used instead though? Cheers, Bill.
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Gt6s wrote:I use grease on gasket surfaces. Same here, only grease used on paper/card gaskets, Cheers, Bill.
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Gt6s wrote:I use grease on gasket surfaces. Same here, only grease used on paper/card gaskets, Cheers, Bill.
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ZDDP additives MIGHT work... BUT.... Having spent quite a lot of time formulating engine oils for a well known company which is a sponsor of the footballists at the moment, I can say that it is a difficult thing to work with. It is activated (i.e. it plates itself out onto any available metal surface) at about 55 centigrade, so you need be sure that your sump is cold before adding it - when we made experimental blends in the lab we made sure the oil was below 40 before adding it to avoid having a stirrer blade that was very well protected from wear and none left in the bulk! It would then take a good 15 mins stirring for a 5L blend to ensure that the ZDDP had dispersed (it is more dense than engine oil and sinks to the bottom). So I'd suggest if you have facilities to add it before the oil is in the car, and you know how much to add on top of that which is already in the formulation, then go for it. Be aware that too much is just as bad as not enough. My best advice? Change your oil regularly - every 3000 miles OR every year (if you don't get to the 3000 miles). This will ensure that it's at the optimum condition if it's mineral based. Synthetic - make sure it's really synthetic as many countries have no legal definition for the term and some oil companies can be unscrupulous as a consequence. Best to stick to 20W50 and make sure that there's a SAE specification on the pack - if not then it's probably reclaimed from that big container that you pour your oil into at the dump...... Thanks, Karen (Mrs Rarebits)
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ZDDP additives MIGHT work... BUT.... Having spent quite a lot of time formulating engine oils for a well known company which is a sponsor of the footballists at the moment, I can say that it is a difficult thing to work with. It is activated (i.e. it plates itself out onto any available metal surface) at about 55 centigrade, so you need be sure that your sump is cold before adding it - when we made experimental blends in the lab we made sure the oil was below 40 before adding it to avoid having a stirrer blade that was very well protected from wear and none left in the bulk! It would then take a good 15 mins stirring for a 5L blend to ensure that the ZDDP had dispersed (it is more dense than engine oil and sinks to the bottom). So I'd suggest if you have facilities to add it before the oil is in the car, and you know how much to add on top of that which is already in the formulation, then go for it. Be aware that too much is just as bad as not enough. My best advice? Change your oil regularly - every 3000 miles OR every year (if you don't get to the 3000 miles). This will ensure that it's at the optimum condition if it's mineral based. Synthetic - make sure it's really synthetic as many countries have no legal definition for the term and some oil companies can be unscrupulous as a consequence. Best to stick to 20W50 and make sure that there's a SAE specification on the pack - if not then it's probably reclaimed from that big container that you pour your oil into at the dump...... Thanks, Karen (Mrs Rarebits)
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2572 wrote:Bought it as a non-runner in 2009, went to Africa for 5 months, came back, started it once, and began a frame off rebuild, so I don't know how it performed before. I'd assumed you were trying to fix a cooling problem. Why don't you revert to the standard system? Cheers, Bill.
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What problems were you experiencing with the original system, before making your modifications? Cheers, Bill.
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These radiators aren't designed to work mounted sideways. As a simple finger in the air estimate, I reckon you're only flowing water through about 1/3 of the potential working area by making the water flow sideways, rather than allowing the vertical flow intended by design. I also feel that your puller fan is counter productive. The angle of the radiator means it's trying to force warm air downwards, against convection currents. Given that the fan is going to be most use when the car is slow moving or stationary, ie air isn't being forced through by the forward motion of the car, all your fan will do is fight against the natural convection current. If the radiator was tilted forwards, your arrangement would be more logical, Cheers, Bill.
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Is it a quirky angle to the photograph, or is that filler cap on the side of the radiator? The way the radiator's angled goes against my gut feeling for how the air flows through the engine compartment, but I've not studied the subject in detail - what's the current thinking that leads to this approach? Is there a fan on the back of that - presumably that's what the fixing lugs on the top face are for? If so, does it suck or blow? Cheers, Bill. EDIT: Is that radiator actually mounted at at a 90 degree angle to it's intended position?
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esxefi wrote:i'm sure you can get thick poly spacers from demon tweeks,i've got some in my garage somewhere,they should be ideal :) I just had a look at these, it appears that what I considered to be expensive is actually dirt cheap...... Cheers, Bill.
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cliftyhanger wrote:(Or have a look at Bills site) You won't find them on my site, but my tradestand at shows is another matter! They're slightly different to the originals, though the basic material is the same. I bought in a small batch as a trial. They're slightly oversized in diameter, which does bother me as under the front bulkhead are visible, and which means I don't want to advertise them as being "as original". I've recently been debating whether to treat them as a regular stock item, or to cast some myself in polyurethane, which takes us back to the original question. Poly would be no more expensive than the fabric/rubber types, but would need to be tested in service before marketing them. Cheers, Bill.
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I've not seen poly body mounts, but the original fabric/rubber pads are available, albeit more expensive than the usual soft rubber ones. Cheers, Bill.
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Firstly, you won't get three kids in the back of a Herald or Vitesse Convertible, the seat is a lot narrower than a Saloon (where it would still be a squeeze!) Secondly, unless you're intending to be inventive with some fabrication work, you can only fit lap belts safely. There's no substantial structure to which a shoulder belt can be mounted, the top frame around the rear seat is remarkably flimsy. It will collapse under the kind of stresses exerted by a restrained child in an impact situation. A pair of lap belts can be easily and safely installed by adding mounting plates into the floor and wheelarch areas, provided these areas are thoroughly checked for rust. It's a few years since I've fitted a child seat and I know the designs (and regulations) have changed. It was always possible though to safely mount most child seats with a static lap belt, but don't expect the sales staff selling you the child seat to have the faintest idea how to work with the old technology! Whether you're happy retaining children with only a lap belt is something you will have to decide for yourself. Cheers, Bill.
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Cyril The Herald (1968 13/60 Restoration)
heraldcoupe replied to Cyril_The_Herald's topic in Triumph Chat
The area that's rotted out here is the edge of the floorpan and the bottom of the A-post. The A-post ios the vertical section which the door hangs from, while the floorpan is the floor (which is the obvious bit) and the horizontal area beneath the A-post which forms the body mounting. There are good quality reproduction floorpans. the bad news is that while three of the four sides are formed as original, there is no attempt made to replicate the body mounting area. The individual body mounting brackets can be bought, but the structure they attach to needs to be fabricated. Alternatively, I understand that Chic Doig (triumph specialist) produces a panel which repairs this area, and incorporates the mounting brackets. I've no personal experience with using this panel, so I'll leave opinions to those who've used one. There are no commercially produced panels to deal with the vertical A-post sections, but once the body mounting area is reinstated, it's almost certainly easier to reconstruct the structure in-situ. There are a number of difficult areas to repair on a Herald, this is one of them. Car magazines are very quick to describe the herald as an ideal beginners project. That's true as far as mechanical components are concerned, but the bodywork shouldn't be underestimated. Many 'restored' Heralds end up with poorly aligned bodywork through lack of preparation and observation during the restoration. Be methodical in recording measurements, if in doubt measure it and write down what you find. Cheers, Bill. -
The fit of the rear wing looks pretty evil, have you got any closeups of this area? Cheers, Bill.
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2276 wrote:Thank you for the replys when you say they differ substantially how do you mean?? The panel is designed as a drop in replacement, rather than a replica of the original floor. The strengthening ribs run in different directions, and the angles of folds and dished areas differ. Sorry I can't find an image online to give you a better idea. I know a few posters on this forum have bought them and seemed happy enough, perhaps one of them would be kind enough to show you? Cheers, Bill.
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Do you know what brand of clutch is fitted? At one time, QH clutches were notorious for juddering, and if my memory's right it would have been around the time Rita was built. Apart from that, juddering is often caused (or at least exaggerated) by softened engine and/or gearbox mountings, Cheers, Bill.
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All GE diffs take large shafts, so standard equipment on all 13/60s. Late GA diffs have the large shafts after production was commonised with teh 13/60, change point is somewhere around GA22xxxx, so 1200s from about 1967. Cheers, Bill.
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The repros are all made by Radford. Some people are happy with them, but I would recommend inspecting in person before buying. They differ substantially from the originals, which bothers some people but not others. This is why many specialists won't stock them, Cheers, Bill.