heraldcoupe
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Everything posted by heraldcoupe
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Thanks Paul, that makes sense. Do you recognise the thick plate between filter and block? Cheers, Bill.
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I hadn't thought of air injection, but that would make sense. Karen suggested that the adaptor between oil filter and block might be part of with a dry sump configuration. The regular dipstick port blanked off, there is a dipstick on the lefthand side with it's tube entering the sump near the bottom edge. I've not taken out the dipstick to check it's appearance, I suspect it may be a flexible type which reaches to the very bottom of the sump. Cheers, Bill.
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Here are a few images of the engine:
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Fit it with a plain nut so the stub doesn't spin. Once it's wound in and seated in the taper, take off the nut and replace with a new nyloc, Cheers, Bill.
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I encountered this engine today. No precise history known, but it appears to have never been in a car, and it's (now deceased) former owner had connections with Cranfield. I'll hopefully have some photographs by the end of the week, but for now I was wondering if the suffux UCE was familiar to anyone. The prefix is FM, number somewhere in the middle of 1500 Spitfire production. There's plenty to suggest it's experimental, of which more when I have photos.... Cheers, Bill.
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Well there's nothing that jumps out immediately as wrong. With the winder mechanism disconnected from the glass channel, does that wind up and down through it's full range? Again with the mechanism disconnected, will the glass move up and down properly along it's full range, while remaining in it's channels? I'm assuming that the rail along the bottom edge of the doorglass hasn't been removed at any point? And that the bracing wire between front and rear channels has now been installed? Finally one for the mods - is it possible to merge posts on Ron's windows into one thread? It's very difficult to jump between information provided in different threads to establish what's going on, Cheers, Bill.
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Well there's nothing that jumps out immediately as wrong. With the winder mechanism disconnected from the glass channel, does that wind up and down through it's full range? Again with the mechanism disconnected, will the glass move up and down properly along it's full range, while remaining in it's channels? I'm assuming that the rail along the bottom edge of the doorglass hasn't been removed at any point? And that the bracing wire between front and rear channels has now been installed? Finally one for the mods - is it possible to merge posts on Ron's windows into one thread? It's very difficult to jump between information provided in different threads to establish what's going on, Cheers, Bill.
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How do you mean "double sided"? There are many different types of decal/transfer - waterslide, rub-down, pressfix, methfix. But anything unusual and I'd expect the supplier to include instructions, Cheers, Bill.
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Got any photographs of the winder mechanism in-situ? If you can get a couple of images at different stages of window lifting it will be helpful in working out what's going wrong, Cheers, Bill.
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Got any photographs of the winder mechanism in-situ? If you can get a couple of images at different stages of window lifting it will be helpful in working out what's going wrong, Cheers, Bill.
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G.in_Belgium wrote:Isn't the glazing due to the resin being cheapo polyester rather than epoxy stuff? Possibly, I really don't know enough about it. But can you think of any old fibreglass cars which haven't suffered from sinking and/or crazing? Suggests that whatever materials might cause the problem, they are very widely used. Cheers, Bill.
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ferny wrote: You have seen my car, right? Yes, I thought you wanted to improve it though.......
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New ones aren't made, though you might get lucky with NOS at shows, ebay etc. What's up with the old ones? Cheers, Bill.
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New ones aren't made, though you might get lucky with NOS at shows, ebay etc. What's up with the old ones? Cheers, Bill.
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Fibreglass might not rust, but it does craze and sink. You get rid of rust, but potentially introduce other equally awkward problems. Adding lightness is a good argument in favour of fibreglass, but it's not the easy route to eliminating future maintenance/repairs that it might appear to be, Cheers, Bill.
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1156 wrote:I haven't got the bracing wire in yet, was meaning to do that last. Will it m ake that much difference then? Yes, it allows the channels to spread apart. If they're held at a fixed distance, the glass can't tilt between them, Cheers, Bill.
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1156 wrote:I haven't got the bracing wire in yet, was meaning to do that last. Will it m ake that much difference then? Yes, it allows the channels to spread apart. If they're held at a fixed distance, the glass can't tilt between them, Cheers, Bill.
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have you got the bracing wire between front and rear channels in place? Cheers, Bill.
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have you got the bracing wire between front and rear channels in place? Cheers, Bill.
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Black sludge is unusual. As you know, the car was laid-up for over 20 years, everything flushed out before going back into service, all apparently nice and clean. It's possible that the (limited) use over the past few years has freed-up muck which was already sitting in the cooling system. Cheers, Bill.
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Where the bootlid stay mounts to the body, there is a small black plate about an inch or two long. One end of this bolts to the tank, you will already have undone this end. The other end is attached to the bodywork by two crosshead screws, undo these and remove the bracket. You should now lift the tank upwards at the front, so the drain tube lifts above the boot floor, as the tank pivots around it's filler neck. With the front end raised and clear, slide the neck of the tank through the grommet into the boot. Cheers, Bill.
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The long ones are the closest which are readily available, not a practical replacement as far as I'm concerned though. The original type occasionally turn up as NOS, but pretty sporadic and some time since I've seen any. Cheers, Bill.
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The long ones are the closest which are readily available, not a practical replacement as far as I'm concerned though. The original type occasionally turn up as NOS, but pretty sporadic and some time since I've seen any. Cheers, Bill.
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County have historically supplied rings by Grants and Deves, both reputable brands as far as I am aware. Their piston sets have been extremely well matched in weight when I've handled them, though I have no recollection of what the actual weights have been. Those most vocal in criticising County pistons have been actively marketing a competing product. That taints any opinion they express to my way of thinking, Cheers, Bill.
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E means Engine, nothing else. Most Triumphs have HE or LE, High Compression Engine and Low Compression Engine respectively. Don't assume that a simple E means low comression, there's no evidence for that to be the case. For the record, Y128 (Herald Coupe) has engine number Y201E. There's nothing to distinguish it as different from any other home market engine. Why just an E suffix? I don't know, but I do know what it isn't. To stick a finger in the air and make a guess, it's possible the engines were numbered before heads and other compression specific components were added, ie before they were defined as High or Low compression. That would make sense with Y201E, an engine built very early in the production run, when initial production stocks were being built up. But that's nothing more than a bit of theorising on my part, don't take it as fact. Cheers, Bill.