heraldcoupe
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Everything posted by heraldcoupe
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927HP and 928HP are both running with Sabrina engines, though at least one of them I remember was running with Webers, rather than DU6s, Cheers, Bill.
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hypoid53 wrote:It is remarkable that for the 40 odd years these SC engines were around no one came up with a better oil filter arrangement, as happened on the 6 cylinder engines to prevent the dreaded drain back, The 6-cylinder engine drains back because of it's design, hence the need for a modified filtration system. The 4-cylinder engines from 1147cc and above have a filtration system which works perfectly well. The problem lies in the quality of filters supplied, or owners being unaware that they need to use a filter which incorporates a valve. Cheers, Bill.
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I would expect a 1967 Herald 1200 to have the same diaphragm clutch as the 13/60. The big change will be the exhaust system. The front pipe will be different, budget for a new back box as it's quite common for an old one to break at the join when attempting to split the system. If your Herald currently has front drum brakes then you should really convert to discs before going for more power. Cheers, Bill.
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2904 wrote:Thanks very much for your replies. Just one thing, if I buy the Mk1V retainers, and they fit ok !! Do I need to use the Mk3 or the Mk1V seal. The parts list shows the same actual seal being used throughout on the Mk3, irrespective of which retainers are used. The MkIV seal uses a different part number, so stick to the Mk3 profile, Cheers, Bill.
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Slimboyfat wrote:Also beware on all types of Herald/Vitesse repro wing (sorry from 'original tooling') that the stiffner along the back edge is all the wrong shape. It will need work to get it to line up with the front edge of the door. If you weld it on as you find it it will 'kick' out at the bottom in relation to the door. My Herald 'S' was repaired this way by a previous owner, it sticks out like a sore thumb. I have a suitable bonnet to rebuild as a replacement, it's unlikely to get done though in my ownership, Cheers, Bill.
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The replica 1200 wings are modified by hand from the (original) tooling for the 13/60 wing - this is why 13/60 wings are so much cheaper than those for the 1200. If you take a look at the area under the headlamp on your original wing, you'll see that where the wing curves in one plane between the grille and wheelarch, it's compounded by a curve outwards as it rises between sidelight and headlight. The reproduction panels lack this secondary curve; firstly this looks very wrong, secondly it makes fitting very difficult. The better restorers will usually start with a 13/60 wing, cutting away the front and grafting it to what can be salvaged of the original wing. Original 1200 wings can take some finding, usually the result of scouring autojumbles and classified adverts. Ebay's not yielded many recently. Additionally, the rust will be emanating from the seal between the wing and wheelarch bowl, so at least the outer edge of that panel will need repair, or replacement. Cheers, Bill.
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The numbers JensH quotes are shared between late Mk3 Spitfire and the MkIV/1500. I had always assumed the change in header rail seals occurred at the same time as the change of hood latches, however the parts list quote their change at "approximately FD13980 R.H.S." That would put yours into the late catches/early seals camp. There was a change in part number of the screen frame at this point, so you'd need to establish what differences exist before mixing & matching. I can see no reference to a further change in screen frame around FD/FDU29587, which woudl seem to be good news. Cheers, Bill.
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rotoflex wrote:If anyone else is undertaking refurbishing those & wonders how to re-paint the engraved white letters, the tool/substance used for painting engraved lettering is a lacquer stick. I never knew that, I've always used acrylic or enamel paints and kept a steady hand with a fine brush! The reproduction caps are well moulded, but the paint is usually flaking away inside the packets, so they need remedial work before they can be fitted. Cheers, Bill.
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Here's a Mk1 structural chassis failure for you to ponder, note the lack of rust, this is fatigue. This was a achieved with the power output and weight over the wheels of nothing more than a 1200 engine:
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Start with a later car. Enjoy a 948 for what it is, if you want performance you're starting from the wrong place. The chassis isn't strong enough to handle anything larger than a 1200, even in standard form they are highly prone to stress cracking, Cheers, Bill.
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Poundland too expensive for you? ;D
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Yes, that's pretty much where I'd put it, Cheers, Bill.
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Sorry this took longer than intended. This is a view into the lefthand rear parcel shelf: The groove with two holes visible is where the back edge of the roof locates. The flat section ahead of this, towards the outside of the car has the strongest structure in the area, with a member running forward from it to the B-post to give additional bracing in the event of an impact. Provided this area isn't rusted, drilling and fitting a spreader plate behind the mounting bolt will provide a decent belt anchor. Cheers, Bill.
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By strange coincidence, I was asked this morning to take a look at how to fit 3-point belts in the back of a Herald Saloon! This car is undergoing a full rebuild with the rear shell completely bare at present. I took a look at the parcel shelf (no roof in the way) and the corner of the roof has quite a substantial structure around it. I'll be back in the workshop later this week, I'll try to remember to get you some pictures to show where's best for the mounting point, Cheers, Bill.
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I've fitted the outer lap fixing to the wheelarch, close to the corner where it meets the floor. The upper mounting can go directly into the shelf ahead of the rear screen. Take it close to the outer corner, but ensure there isn't rot in the seam between deck and wing as this would weaken the structure. Going off on a bit of a tangent, I've been intrigued by the Isofix system. With retro-fit kits for modern cars being available for less than £20, I wonder whether it could be adapted to a Herald. Cheers, Bill.
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I can't comment on current child seats as my son is nearly 13 years old. Those available in the early 2000s generally worked well with static belts (ours were Britax) and included instructions for fitting in static modes. What I would add though is that NO-ONE at any of the fitting specialists had the first clue about these applications, so we had to do our own research on how they were supposed to be installed. Cheers, Bill.
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The Saloon is straightforward enough, the only difficulty I can foresee is fitting the reels onto the parcel shelf without fouling the rear screen. With static belts you need to drill a single hole for each mounting, ensuring the inner end of the horizontal belt is well away from the spring cover plate, then back each hole with the spreader plate which is usually supplied with the kit. You may additionally need to fabricate a mounting for the reel on an inertia setup, it would depend on it's shape and size. Is there any reason you are particularly keen on inertia reels over statics? Cheers, Bill.
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Saloon - yes Convertible - no Anything can be done if you are prepared to put enough engineering into the project, but anything more than lap belts in the back of a Convertible becomes a very involved project, Cheers, Bill.
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It will fit, but only if you use the appropriate mounting bracket which sits at a shallower angle. Cheers, Bill.
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We had something very similar with our Rover 620. Both bulbs would blow with monotonous regularity, but the nearside would blow far more frequently, a couple of times a month at least. I never fixed it as the car was retired, but I reckoned it was possibly a current leak to the bulb, so it was receiving a low voltage when theoretically switched off. This could be enough to fatigue the filament prematurely. It was difficult to pinpoint with the Rover, but presumably the Acclaim doesn't have a dedicated ECU for the lights, so should be easier to buzz out with a meter. Cheers, Bill.
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A and B suffixes were not universally applied throughout the UK. This meant there were large numbers of unissued numbers, which could be used for registering cars which had fallen off the system. This applied to cars where the original number had been transferred to another vehicle, and in other cases where the owner failed to register the cars on the centralised DVLA computer by the 1983 deadline. From that date DVLA were very inflexible about reissuing 'lost' numbers. During the late 1980s, it was pointed out that DVLA's own rules forbade the use of a registration which was younger than the vehicle's actual age, as this was a way of making an old car appear newer to the casual purchaser - remember this all preceded instant availability of information through the internet. From this time onwards, DVLA issued properly age related numbers in these situations, whilst reclaiming an original number was made easier. Nevertheless, there are still plenty of pre-1963 cars carrying B-suffix (1964) plates as a legacy of this policy. Chances are the original plate from the car in question has been sold, however there is a small possibility that it's still out there waiting to be reclaimed from DVLA, Cheers, Bill.
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1218 wrote:I wonder if the white hood is standard or aftermarket? White was a rare and seldom specified option for the roof.... The White roof was actually very common on 948s and early 1200s, putting a finger in the air I would say the split was about 50/50 in the case of the 948s. 1961 would be Powder Blue and I reckon the Phantom Grey parts of the interior are more likely to be original than the blue parts. Cheers, Bill.
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1953 wrote:This Early 1200 convertible on Ebay UK has blue trim, and a blue dash covering too! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Early-Triumph-Herald-Convertible-1200-1961-/160951128828?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item25796f52fc VERY early 1200, still has the large sidelights. It's about 20 minutes away from me but there's no way I can justify buying it right now, Cheers, Bill.
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Here's a scan of the insert provided for the Vitesse 2L Mk1 supplement for the Vitesse 6 parts list/. The original Vitesse 6 section of the manual lists only Midnight Blue, the 2L supplement lists both Midnight and Shadow Blues. Cheers, Bill.
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Nick_Jones wrote:Provided the cam follower can be got moving freely again I'd clap the head back on with some refurbed rockers and give it a go. That would be my approach too. Cheers, Bill.