heraldcoupe
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Everything posted by heraldcoupe
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It's the exhaust on cylinder number 2 that's failed. Study the deposits in chamber number two and on the piston crown, they suggest combustion hasn't been good on that cylinder. I'd suspect the valve clearances weren't properly adjusted, with the rocker in question set too tight - this failure is typical after long-term running under those conditions. The general buildup on the rockers and cylinder head suggests some neglect in terms of oil changes - if the oil doesn't get changed, what chance of the tappets having been set? I'd give it a good cleanup, fit a new rocker (check all the others properly) and make sure everything is free moving. Properly set the tappets on reassembly, and again when the head is retorqued after 500 miles. Cheers, Bill.
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1101 wrote:Is this why later models had the switch actually in the gear knob? It was cost reduction, the same arrangement to all other British Leyland cars with overdrive at the same time. I prefer the column switch ergonomically (which is a personal preference) and for reliability and my general dislike of electric shocks and smoke. Cheers, Bill.
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The overdrive switch mounts to a special plastic cowl which replaces the one in place over the indicator switch. Once you have all the wiring in place, all you need at the column is the switch, cowling and a set of decals, Cheers, Bill.
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John reckoned to just use it as taken off the 13/60, so whatever needle is used in that application. The original conversation is in the archives of the Herald Yahoo group: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/triumph_herald/message/13593 Cheers, Bill.
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I'd be more inclined to go for a CD150 for a couple of reasons. Firstly, CD125s and HS2s were both offered in pairs for the 1147 engine, while John Kipping reckoned the CD150 set up for a 13/60 would be just about right for an 1147. It's not a theory I've put to the test for myself, but it's my intended starting point when I get around to doing the same conversion myself. Secondly, the CD125s are a lot less common than the CD150, I can think of only a handful of cars which used them. CD150 spares are always available from Triumph specialists. As an aside, I can't think of an application which uses a single CD125, always twins on those I know. Cheers, Bill.
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Phantom's picture of the front edge is better than I could manage because of the odd lighting where my parts are stored. Here are views of where it meets the B-post though: First from above and inboard This one's taken from the underside, note the spot welds at the end of the treadplate Hope that helps, Cheers, Bill.
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I have an unused Stanpart rear floor section including both treadplates and the base of the B-posts. I'll take some reference pictures for you tomorrow, Cheers, Bill.
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Thanks guys. I was pretty sure it was big Saloon, but as it came with a job lot I didn't want to assume anything. I've just been back up to the barn and there's not a hint of a number anywhere. Cheers, Bill.
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I'm just getting to the end of clearing my old storage barn. There are a few pieces I'm getting rid of via ebay rather than moving, including an A-type gearbox with damaged bellhousing. Being more familiar with the components of the small chassis Triumphs, I've struggled to find an identification number on this gearbox. There are various casting numbers which I know are unlikely to be helpful, but there must be a serial number stamped somewhere? The overdrive serial is easy enough: Any help appreciated, Cheers, Bill.
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4-stud is fine for a swing spring conversion. Don't be tempted though to simply omit the two studs and stick with the fixed spring. The top plate isn't strong enough without the additional studs to spread the load, I have seen them break on two different Heralds, Cheers, Bill.
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Copper Nickel Alloy (CuNiFer/Kunifer) is a far better material than copper. While I wouldn't rush strip out copper lines if I bought a car with them already fitted, I have seen many copper pipes fracture when disturbed for maintenance of the braking system. When left in place they are likely to be OK, but work hardening makes copper brittle. Any unsupported length which is free to vibrate will work harden, Cheers, Bill.
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With the last one I worked on, we salvaged as many good clips as possible from old trims. The contingency plan, had we not managed to salvage enough clips, was to use a polyurethane sealant/adhesive to hold the trim in place. We were lucky in having a decent number of spare trims to scavenge from, most owners would need to resort to the sealant somewhat earlier. The original clip isn't common to much else, which is why it's not been reproduced. It took many years of badgering to get the clips for the central spear trim remade, Cheers, Bill.
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Afraid they're not available, at least not via any source I've found. I've ordered clips which looked promising from some of my wholesalers, but nothing has been workable. I've seen others supplied through the Triumph trade which are simply unsuitable, despite being marketed as correct. Cheers, Bill.
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Spitfire overdrive mainshaft question
heraldcoupe replied to stillnotfinnished's topic in Drivetrain
stillnotfinnished wrote:How does the shaft come out? As Richard said, complete stripdown, everything else is built around the mainshaft, Cheers, Bill. -
matgt6 wrote:If the spring is too weak surely it lengthens pushing the top of the wheels out , meaning positive camber , no ? No, in it's static laden position, the spring should be virtually flat, so at it's maximum length. Any deviation up or down will shorten it's effective length. To return to the OP, fitting a spring spacer will increase negative camber, so not the desired effect in this case, Cheers, Bill.
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Richard_B wrote:MkIV Spitfire's had the short driveshaft same as Herald and early Spitfires. Only 1500 Spitfires had the long one. Introduced on facelift MkIVs in late 1972, Cheers, Bill.
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That is truly outstanding workmanship, I'd love to know how long it took him to make each of those panels, Cheers, Bill.
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Same thing happened to my Transit a few years ago, they lacked that fancy construction though, Cheers, Bill.
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1218 wrote:Sorry to hijack but I have a NOS wheel for my Herald, unfortunately it has storage damage, chips/scratches etc, has anyone had any experience of repainting a steering wheel? If so, what paint is best please? The paint applied at the factory was nothing special, which is why new ones are so often chipped, I've refurbished black ones using aerosol Smoothrite, while for the grey ones I've used Phantom Grey cellulose in an aerosol, as for all the other interior bits. Both have worn just fine, with the caveat that the Smoothrite was done 15+ years ago and I believe the formula has since changed, Cheers, Bill.
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If you're rebuilding the slave cylinder then you'll be rebuilding the master cylinder at the same time. If not, then you should be. This will leave the (usually undamaged) old boot from the master cylinder as a spare. It will fit in place of the metal cap on the slave, though you usually have to fit the cylinder through it's mounting bracket before fitting the boot, then fit the bracket back onto the bellhousing, Cheers, Bill.
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They're likely to be long enough, but ask if they have a bubble or lip profile. Original is lip profile, aftermarket is often bubble profile and a lot fatter, Cheers, Bill.
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They're likely to be long enough, but ask if they have a bubble or lip profile. Original is lip profile, aftermarket is often bubble profile and a lot fatter, Cheers, Bill.
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Nardi. Chunkier than the MotoLita wheels, without being fugly like the Mountneys. http://i981.photobucket.com/albums/ae297/trtags/Nardi-1.jpg Expensive new, but used on some MX5s so shouldn't be crippling secondhand, except for the boss I suppose, Cheers, Bill.
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5820 wrote: ;) why not go for a type 9 conversion should cope with upto 200bhp Because you shouldn't put F**d parts on a proper car?
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It won't fit and it's a very weak gearbox, so a loser on both counts I'm afraid, Cheers, Bill.