heraldcoupe
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Everything posted by heraldcoupe
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Yes, that's what I meant. I always grease the trunnions with the brake drums removed so I can observe anything exuding beyond the backplate, especially when the history of the halfshafts is unknown... Cheers, Bill.
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This is usually a symptom of the inner driveshaft seal being fitted the wrong way around, with the lip facing inwards towards the bearing. The lip should face towards the diff end, it's intended to keep water out, rather than for keeping grease in. I know of at least one specialist who supplied them like this for many years, possibly as the result of an error in one of the workshop manual diagrams. As designed, the seal at the hub end has the lip facing inwards, so any pressure is released with at the inboard end where the grease can be forced out past the lip. With both seals orientated so their lips point inwards, there's a 50:50 chance of the grease escaping at the wrong end. Cheers, Bill.
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More or less. The type 14 calipers are a little bigger and can just make contact with the hub. Triumphs fitted with type 14s when new had the edge of the hub turned off on a lathe to give a little more clearance. Cheers, Bill.
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... as does the length, Cheers, Bill.
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Looks like the articulated joint isn't secured either to the column or to the rack, Cheers, Bill.
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That's one way of interpreting the result. The other interpretation would be that the oil is excessively cooled when the cooler is in circuit, d that the oil is not reaching it's optimum temperature, remaining thicker than it should be. I would be happy to see 60psi on most fully warmed Triumph engines. Do you have an oil temperature gauge? Cheers, Bill.
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It's the fungus that grows in used oil...
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It's the fungus that grows in used oil...
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I lean towards changing the UJs and trunnion bushes as a matter of course, though getting correct bushes has become a problem. The UJs may well be OK, but pump fresh grease through and articulate them well to see what the old grease is like when it's forced out. If it looks like it's been in there a long time, assume the joint is past it's best. Dismantle the bushes and assess them at the very least, about 70% of those I deal with have to be cut apart through seizure. The pictured shafts look clean so hopefully well maintained, Cheers, Bill.
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http://www.rarebits4classics.net/#!product/prd12/4245964245/driveshaft-flange-(small)
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http://www.rarebits4classics.net/#!hints--tips/cdwh Cheers, Bill.
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OE would be 1/4" UNF, many of the aftermarket UJs have M6 threads, Cheers, Bill.
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Remember that the driveshaft UJ has to be set VERY tight, so the shaft will stand upright on it's flange without toppling. Anything less and you need to look at replacement, or at the very least using oversize circlips to eliminate the play, Cheers, Bill.
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Or commonly with older live axles, a clean break. It's good advice to maintain the orientation of the shafts, something which is all too rarely mentioned with 'our' cars, Cheers, Bill.
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The driveshaft remained essentially unchanged throughout production. I suspect the change you're thinking of is to the differential output shafts, these were increased in thickness with the introduction of the 13/60, in turn commonised to late 1200s, Cheers, Bill.
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Yes please! The 34" distance can be managed to some degree with shims, so the solid shaft should be OK. Not going to Beaulieu by any chance are you? Cheers, Bill.
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Thanks for all the pointers, much to be followed up, particularly the Dolomite.Toledo possibilities. I'll try and keep it to BL parts bin stuff to keep things simple in terms of flanges & UJs. If I can't get to 34" off the shelf I'll cut one down to suit, but it would be simpler not to, Cheers, Bill.
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Sorry, yes. It was a tangential thought about what the gearbox might be good for, rather than the OP's intent. Cheers, Bill.
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Stanpart 1200 wings are scarce, repros aren't worth bothering with. The latter are modified from the 13/60 pressings which you already have, but the profile under the headlamp is all wrong. In the absence of originals, best practice currently is to use the 13/60 wings, making a diagonal cut from just behind the top front corner down to just ahead of the corner at the front of the wheelarch. Cut the 1200 wing away, leaving the corresponding front section in place. You now need to graft the old front to the new section in situ. You will need to do a little fabricating to make good any rot under the sidelight, but this approach is infinitely better than making the repro 1200 wings look anything like they should, Cheers, Bill.
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There was one fitted to a 1200 Coupe I bought in 2001. It lasted a few weeks before falling off into the path of an oncoming lorry. Seems my experience wasn't unique. Cheers, Bill.
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It all depends which pages have been updated/replaced. Early copies predate them, but late copies cover the Mk3 Spitfire and Herald 13/60. Amongst my literature I have a set of unused update pages for the black book, it's basically a new set of contents without the binder, Cheers, Bill.
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No, this is only the case with the 948 manual, which was supplied as a set of six paperback volumes. All subsequent models were covered in the black-bound ringbinder volume, this also included coverage of the Vitesse 6 and Spitfire Mk1-3, Cheers, Bill.
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1-4 are very close to Herald ratios... Cheers, Bill.
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There is a degree of adjustment in the main pivot plate, it's mounted onto a floating backplate, but movement is limited. The factory workshop manual is an absolute essential in looking after a Herald. It's worth trying to find an original copy in the black ring binder if possible, it's more workshop friendly in having full-size pages and fold-out oversize diagrams. There's also no bound spine to get in the way of leaving pages open, Cheers, Bill.
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Some are wired this way, others have the switching in the feed side of the circuit. A lesson learnt when intending to use a Mk3 Spitfire overdrive loom on a Vitesse... Cheers, Bill.