heraldcoupe
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Everything posted by heraldcoupe
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thescrapman wrote:With the youngest ones about being 40+ years old, your best bet is to make a new card, buy a sheet of plastic, and draw round the old one. Use of plastic means it will not warp ever again! Depends what kind of plastic - ABS would be OK, HIPS could be a waprage nightmare, Cheers, Bill.
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I have mixed views on polyurethane trunnion bushes. I've always objected on the grounds that the poly compounds used are inherently softer than the original nylon bushes, so a retrograde step in terms of precise location. On the other hand, recent changes to the design of readily available 'original' bushes, ie a thicker inner washer to the dust shield, means the bush itself is clamped tight between the uprights, leaving 1-2mm of endfloat for the tube which 'should' be clamped tight. If the poly bushes are correctly designed so the tube is clamped while the bush pivots, then they would indeed be an improvement. For the record, the early trunnion bushes never incorporated any shielding, this was introduced as a modification somewhere around 1964, Cheers, Bill.
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2487 wrote:I am having a devil of a job fitting the fibreglass one though, could anyone oblige with pictures of a fitted one? Do you mean a fitted fibreglass valance, or an original? I can't speak for the current products, but for the past 20 years I've not seen a correctly moulded fibrglass valance. All have been moulded too short (front to back) so the valance's rear edge is about an inch forward of the wheelarch. There's not a lot you can do about it if this is the ind of problem you're getting, Cheers, Bill.
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Two fixings at the top, the rearmost sits underneath the side window seal. Just ine primary fixing at the bottom, however there is additionally a rivet hidden under the seal. This can be accessed by pulling back the lip of the seal, Cheers, Bill.
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I can't quote the correct internal seal diameters, but this mi-match is something I've previously encountered. Chances are the cylinders you're attempting to re-seal are aftermarket replacement parts rather than originals. The seal kits will be made to match Girling parts, where repros often differ in their internal design, Cheers, Bill.
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This propshaft has been a good fit in my experience, others have suggested a need to shim the engine forward slightly on it's mount. The MkIV Spitfire gearbox has synchromesh on all forward gears whilst remaining a 3-rail design; this gearbox is half an inch longer than the 3-synchro, which may account for the different experiences in fitting. The othe rsource of a 47" propshaft is a Triumph 2000 or 2500 with manual gearbox, or manual with overdrive. The autos are different. Be aware of different flange sizes, these will need changing according to which diff/gearbox combination you use. Cheers, Bill.
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Some suppliers sell original pattern clips in some naive hope that they'll work with aftermarket weatherstrips. The colour is no indicator, many different widths have been supplied in the green finish in recent years, some are more suitable than others. I'm currently stocking a much wider clip which is ideal for the weatherstrips I sell, they may or may not work so well with weatherstrips from other sources. Take a look at your clip and check it's width inside the bottom of the channel. This must be wide enough to fit the base of the weatherstrip and the thickness of the doorskin flange. The original weatherstrips have narrowed recesses to accept a thinner clip, most aftermarket strips don't. Cheers, Bill.
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Some suppliers sell original pattern clips in some naive hope that they'll work with aftermarket weatherstrips. The colour is no indicator, many different widths have been supplied in the green finish in recent years, some are more suitable than others. I'm currently stocking a much wider clip which is ideal for the weatherstrips I sell, they may or may not work so well with weatherstrips from other sources. Take a look at your clip and check it's width inside the bottom of the channel. This must be wide enough to fit the base of the weatherstrip and the thickness of the doorskin flange. The original weatherstrips have narrowed recesses to accept a thinner clip, most aftermarket strips don't. Cheers, Bill.
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Having owned numerous cars with overdrive, I've experienced very few problems with any of them. Thise which come to mind are a failed solenoid on my Mk1 2000 (A-type) in 1991 and a recent slipping issue with my current 1500 Spitfire (J-type). The latter seems to have been cured by changing the 20 year old oil. Not something I'd consider to be at all troublesome, Cheers, Bill.
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Bear in mind that the floorpans and transmision tunnel changed shape from mid-1962, so late carpets won't fit early floors, Cheers, Bill.
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It's true to a degree, but don't expect miracles. More likely the dampers have their spring seats in the wrong place...... Cheers, Bill.
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Yes, that's an original pressing from the BL era, Cheers, Bill.
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The 13/60 valance has a step along the back edge where it rises to meet the bonnet, so the gap between panels forms two parallel lines. The radiator sits further forward on the Vitesse, so the back edge of the valance is scalloped to clear it, the shut lines on a Vitesse are less neat as a result. Given that genuine Stanpart Vitesse panels carry something of a premium, I'd look at offering it as a swap for the correct panel, or sell it and buy a new valance of the correct type with the proceeds, Cheers, Bill.
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As I remember it, the 4-synchro version of the 3-rail box is 1/2" longer than the 3-synchro version, the flange thickness is different. With a solid propshaft this is a potential pitfall, you can shim the engine mountings though, Cheers, Bill.
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You can take the roof off. If you're tempted to actually drive the car in this configuration, try jacking up one corner first then opening and closing each of the doors. If you're happy with what you find, feel free to drive it, just remember to notify your insurance company that the car has been modified, Cheers, Bill.
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1218 wrote:From their website the carpet probably is mouldable since it is on a polypropylene backing. https://www.youtube.com/embed/bvGRsM5Z2P8
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There is a manufacturer in Australia that appears to have a good match for the original Triumph loop-pile carpet. They produce moulded carpets using this material, however there are none for Triumphs in their range. The company won't supply outside of Australia or New Zealand. I've tried several times to obtain samples via various third parties, if only to sattisfy my own curiosity but I'm afraid no-one with the right contacts has been sufficiently motivated to pursue the supplier. http://www.knoxautocarpets.com.au/colours/ Cheers, Bill.
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ferny wrote:Tom's done a good job on that. But please please please ask his to change "cart" to "trolley". ;D We sell to merkins too you know :-) Cheers, Bill.
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ferny wrote:Tom's done a good job on that. But please please please ask his to change "cart" to "trolley". ;D We sell to merkins too you know :-) Cheers, Bill.
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4526 wrote:You can also ask him here at the forum, he's on here also ;) Indeed I am, but it's bast to keep any business enquiries through the website. Cheers, Bill.
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4526 wrote:You can also ask him here at the forum, he's on here also ;) Indeed I am, but it's bast to keep any business enquiries through the website. Cheers, Bill.
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912 wrote:Is it possible to convert a non-locking one to a locking one by replacing the button with a key lock barrel? Yes, it is. this is essentially how they changed between LHD and RHD configuration. Early cars (until early 1962) had locking doors on both sides, but they used an entirely different locks and handles, so a conversion by this route would be a lot more work than it might appear, Cheers, Bill.
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Does the clutch pipe have the original wide-bore plastic section? I found it very difficult to purge all of the air from this system on our old 1500. I resorted to unbolting the slave, then holding it above the master whilst bleeding, keeping the nipple as the highest point. This worked for me, though the problem was consistent rather than intermittent in my case, Cheers, Bill.
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The rear FG vlances are OK if you like that sort of thing. The front ones have been very poor for a long time...... Cheers, Bill.
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When buying, I'm always been suspicious of mechanical units with bits removed leaving openings unsealed. It can be blocked with a bit of rag I know, but expect cynicism from bidders, Cheers, Bill.