heraldcoupe
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Everything posted by heraldcoupe
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The shim steel gaskets have a coat of shellac on them as supplied, essentially the same stuff as Wellseal. Cheers, Bill.
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The 1200 head would lower the compression substantially, but I can't see any reason why it wouldn't work. With some work the compression could be brought back up, while everything would line-up OK. I don't have any heads around or decent library photographs, from memory the 948 head has markings cast in the top face, a rather prominent "10" comes to mind, Cheers, Bill.
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herald948 wrote:As I recall, the 948s did use a 3/4" reach plug, while 1147s had a 1/2" reach plug. It went back to 3/4" reach for the 1296. You might look for the stamped part number on your head; perhaps it is from an 1147? 3/4" is correct, though plenty of literature down the years has (incorrectly) stated the 948 plug length as 1/2". The 1200 head will fit straight onto a 948 block so it's not inconceivable that the head is the wrong type, Cheers, Bill.
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Nick_Jones wrote:Though I'm very fond of my Vitesse, I have to say that a Herald with well-tuned 1300 or 1500 is damn near as quick especially on twisty roads. I would argue the 4-pot is better on twisty roads. Whatever you do to make a Vitesse handle, two cylinders remain sticking out ahead of the front wheels. Cheers, Bill.
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Get yourself a new pin to match the other bits, this one is knackered, Cheers, Bill.
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As the front suspension will need to come apart to fit suitable springs, I'd take the opportunity to fit the Vitesse uprights with their larger stub axles and bearings, irrespective of whether the Herald brakes were up to the job. Cheers, Bill.
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The cross-section of the Mk1-3 Spitfire windscreen seal matches that of the post-1961 Herald and Vitesse models. Given that the earlier Heralds had a plain windscreen seal with no finisher, with an identical windscreen and aperture shape to the later variants, this profile should fit the Spitfire screen and aperture equally well. Now the catch - about 15 years ago I had a batch of early Herald windscreen seals made because there was no decent commercially available match for that early Herald profile. Those I commissioned are long sold out, while I've considered production of more, it's not likely to happen imminently in the current climate, Cheers, Bill.
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3648 wrote:can anyone recommend a garage that's good for Triumph herald in the greater Bristol area? If you can stand the short hop to Royal Wootton Bassett, I'd recommend Paul Cull at Triumph Auto Classique: http://www.classiccarwebsite.com/triumph-auto-classique Cheers, Bill.
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9311 wrote:Surprised to hear the poly bushes are a bit soft - on other cars I've always found them a bit on the hard side and tend to stick with OE bushes. I am only referring to the trunnion bushes in this respect, not the metal/rubber components used elsewhere in the susension. The original nylon bushes are pretty much rigid, polybushes aren't. Cheers, Bill.
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The polyurethane bushes are softer than the nylon originals, they are a downgrade in the trunnion application, (IMNSHO), Cheers, Bill.
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I really like that, however much of a purists nightmare it might be! Quality of plastic trunnion bushes is hugely variable. As designed, the tube should be clamped between the two wishbone arms, the plastic bushes are then able to pivot around this point. In practice, once assembled into the trunnion, the overall width of the plastic bushes with inner washers is greater than the length of the tube. This obviously can't work - the plastic bushes will be in compression before the tube is under any tension. I suspect this is the case with the components you've installed, check the relative dimensions with a set of accurate vernier calipers. Don't include the outer parts of the shields as these fit outside the ends of the tube. If my assumption is right, you will need to reduce the width of the assembled trunnion to fractionally less than that of the tube. What few people realise is that the splash guards weren't fitted until well into Herald production, they were a pretty unsuccessful attempt to exclude water from the bushes and prevent seizure. The factory introduced them in conjunction with an alteration in widthj of the plastic mouldings, maintaining the overall width of the bush assembly. With this in mind, I've been quite happy to omit one or both inner parts of the splash guards when it achieves a better overall width. Use of substantial quantities of copperslip (or your preferred anti-seize compound) is infinitely better at preventing seizure than the factory sanctioned washers. The overall width of the tube and outer washers should be a close match for that of the lower shock absorber bush. Use or omit the outer washers to achieve the best match in width. It's not ideal, these components really should be manufactured to match either of the original specifications more closely. But often they don't, this is a way to get around the problem. Cheers, Bill.
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3459 wrote:Looking around the internet there are many claims/videos suggesting that bubble flares can be made with a double flare tool. Given that we are talking about safety critical items here I don't want to do anything (else!) stupid. So is a bubble flaring tool very different to a double flaring tool? There are two stages. Using the first stage of the tool produces a bubble flare. Following this with the second stage turns it into a double flare with an internal coned profile. There's nothing wrong or unsafe in this, it's how the tools are designed to work, Cheers, Bill.
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The Convertible doors are only different in having a couple of extra holes on the B-post end, so nothing insurmountable if they turn up first. Cances are you'll pay more for them though, so better to look for Saloon, Cheers, Bill.
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How early is this car? There is a rod from the suspension turret to the bonnet hinge. On most cars this rod has a central adjuster to alter it's length, moving the bonnet backwards or forward as required. Early cars lack the adjuster though, it was introduced around 1961. I can see from your bonnet that yours is pre-1964, hence the question about age. Similarly, the height adjustment on the bulkhead was changed in 1962. Early cars have a V-plate on the bulkhead, adjustable by loosening two screws and sliding the plate up or down, then re-tightening. From 1962 the aforementioned cones became common, though the earliest implementations had the cones in the bonnet top rather than on the bulkhead. Your valance looks like it's a fibreglass replacement, which would explain it's odd position. Hard to advise on how to adjust this as the method of mounting it will be down to a previous owner's work. Regarding the slamming doors, this shouldn't be necessary, it's usually caused (and accepted as inevitable by some people) because of oversize door seals. The original seals have a lip profile, some aftermarket types have a fat bubble section which doesn't compress enough as the door closes.
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yes, bond GT4S doors are common to the Herald Saloon, Estate & Coupe, with only minor differences to the Convertible doors. The door glass is unique to the Bonds, be sure not to discard your originals, Cheers, Bill.
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All male unions have a bubble flare, double flare for the females, Cheers, Bill.
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Conversion to diaphragm is straightforward and popular, so assume nothing. If you extract the slave cylinder, the coil spring type has a slot for the pinchbolt in a complete circle around the body. By comparison, the diaphragm clutch cylinder has a slot down one side of the casting, Cheers, Bill.
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If your car is lefthand drive, then yes, you should have one on the left hand side, as noted on the drawing. If your car is righthand drive, then no. Cheers, Bill.
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The strip was originally stapled to the valance, you'll see a line of fine holes along the back edge as a telltale of where they were, Cheers, Bill.
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JohnD wrote:But to be honest, I don't think that the displacement will be more than fractions of a degree, so they won't get much, will they? Not so good when the bonding fails and the outer part moves 90+ degrees. It happened on our old 2000 and again with my current Mk2 Golf GTi. From two instances in the small sample I've owned, I'd always assumed it was a common problem, Cheers, Bill
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9016 wrote: Standard hey? I was told they where "the next size up" there you go. Type 12s were used until about 1966/7, then type 14s became standard. So they are an upgrade for a certain timeframe, standard thereafter. Quote:Yes from what I saw the slave push rod was welded at the end so its been "made up" , if I could find an adjustable one that would help, any ideas on what the length should be? I don't have so much 6-cylinder stuff here to measure, but I think that what's technically 'correct' is academic. Measure the rest position of the slave piston, ie pushed right back down the bore, then calculate what kind of play there would be between that and the rest position of the rod, ie fully forward, bearing just making contact with the clutch cover. Clearance should be minimal but measurable, excessive clearance needs to be eliminated, Cheers, Bill.
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9016 wrote:Well I put up pics of the front and rear brakes , so see if some does recognise them.. The front calipers are type 14, standard fare for Triumphs with engines up to 1500cc. I'm not sure on the rears, the seven and eight inch drum setups are pretty similar in design. Whatever the size, it's a stock setup, gut feeling is they're seven inch. Given that this is the same arrangement as used in the 1500 Spitfire, that car uses a 0.7" bore dual circuit master cylinder in it's latest incarnation. I see no need for a different cylinder bore between front and rear brakes - if you feel there's an imbalance, change the rear slave cylinder size to adjust, three different sizes having been used by Standard Triumph in different applications - 5/8", 3/4" and 0.7". While this should sort out your brake balance, I'd be concerned about using such small calipers with such an increase in weight and performance. Triumph went to type 16s with larger discs for their 2-litre installations, together with eight inch rear drums. As regards your clutch issue, have you measured the rest position of the pushrod agaisnt the end travel of the slave piston? It may be that your slave cylinder is reaching the stop at the end of it's bore before the clutch has released - no amount of changing cylinder bores is going to alter that. This has become a big issue with the 4-cylinder cars since Delphi altered the clutch design so the rest position of the arm becomes lower. Cheers, Bill.
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You can fit discs to the drum uprights, this is how the factory did it until 1963. You would need caliper adaptors to bolt onto the uprights, these and the dust shields are common to the Vitesse 6. If you go for the post-63 setup, you will need to replace the steering arms and stub axles as they're specific to the disc upright design. The brake hoses are no longer mounted to the side valance, instead the flexible hose terminates at a bracket fixed to the rear upper wishbone bolt. A longer rigid pipe comes under the valance and meets the hose at this bracket. Later valances are slotted to clear the pipe, earlier examples need cutting in this area. The existing holes for the drum hoses are left unfilled on disc-braked cars. Don't overlook the master cylinder. Bore remains at 5/8", but you will need an increased reservoir to allow for the droping fluid level as the calipers self-adjust. On later heralds this was achieved with a plastic extension, available as a new part from motor sports suppliers but curiously missing from the ranges of most Triumph specialists. https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/girling-reservoir-extension-gmc-rex Cheers, Bill.
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From Wikipedia: Zenith Carburetter Company was a British company making carburettors. In 1955 they joined with their major pre-war rival Solex Carburettors and over time the Zenith brand name fell into disuse. The rights to the Zenith designs were owned by Solex UK (a daughter company of Solex in France). The carb shown above looks very much like a Solex B30 PSE1, Cheers, Bill.
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I don't fully understand the relationships between the different carburettor manufacturers, however Zenith figures high in the supply chain of Solex parts. I suspect yours is a later replacement carburettor, post a picture and we'll be able to tell you more, Cheers, Bill.