heraldcoupe
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Everything posted by heraldcoupe
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8914 wrote:My horn just sounds randomly whenever it feels like! I cant see any obvious fault so Im considering disconnecting them this weekend. Pain in the backside these random beeps!! It's the steering wheel or inner column making contact with the slip ring inside the outer column. Often caused by a worn upper steering column bush or a badly adjusted clearance between the wheel and outer column. It can happen with an original wheel, but it's far more common with aftermarket steering wheels, Cheers, Bill.
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9016 wrote:Maybe the Heralds were a bit hit n miss . I was in a car store yesterday trying to find a new ignition switch for it , the guy laughed and said ohh a Herald hows the brakes on it ?? he apparently tried to get them working better on his but gave up and sold it.. :-/ Not hit and miss at all in terms of operation, however the front drum setup has on occasion given me nightmares when trying to bleed it! The system itself is sound though, I have owned and driven a very substantial number of all types, Cheers, Bill.
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9110 wrote:Always had sliding Spline type before. Sliding splines are pretty rare on Heralds, usually used to cure vibrations on 'difficult' cars coming off the production line. They're more common on Vitesses though. Until the strap-drives came in, most Heralds had a solid shaft with no compression of any sort, just the two UJs to articulate, Cheers, Bill.
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Clutch master cylinders on Heralds are all 5/8" bore, Cheers, Bill.
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Thread is no.10 UNF, length I think is 1/2", Cheers, Bill.
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That's really good news, I'm so glad someone was able to help, Cheers, Bill.
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It was during 1960, probably fitted to the earliest 948 Convertibles but gone by the time any of those were sold in the UK, Cheers, Bill.
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1218 wrote:Didn't the 948 have an adjustable clutch?Mark Yes, for the early ones, however it does nothing meaningful and the clutch self-adjusts perfectly well. It's possible that if badly adjusted it would prevent the clutch from fully engaging, but the OP states there's no tension on the arm so that seems unlikely, Cheers, Bill.
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There are two different types of clutch cover, one has six springs, the other has nine. The coil spring clutch isn't particularly strong but it shouldn't slip easily from new, however the nine spring cover does offer an upgrade over the six spring type. You mentioned that the original plate was oily, presumably there was no sign of oil on the new plate when you subsequently went back in to fit the new cover? Cheers, Bill.
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David Manners any help? http://www.jagspares.co.uk/Abingdon/company.asp#gsc.tab=0
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Removing flexible brake pipes to front discs
heraldcoupe replied to Hexaflexagon's topic in Running Gear
9091 wrote:A supplementary question,. What's the best way of preventing fluid from running out once the pipe is disconnected. I've seen mention of clamping it with a mole wrench but am worried that the teeth of the wrench might damage the pipe. If you disconnect at the union betweent eh hose and the rigid pipe, you are left with a female union - this can be sealed with a bleed nipple, Cheers, Bill. -
The rear centre valance pressing is common between all cars built after late 1960. Before this they were welded as part of the body structure, once they became bolt-on panels, there were no changes to the design of the pressing. A metal strip was added for retaining the bumpers on 1200s and 13/60s, but nothing beneath was changed, reproduction panels are supplied with the strip as a seperate part for attachment by the purchaser. £135 is well above what you'd be paying for a steel panel from a Triumph specialist, shop around. Cheers, Bill.
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609891 - Good luck finding new ones though...... Cheers, Bill.
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2402 wrote:OMG is that an optical illusion on pic 5 on that link Nang!!!!!!! Wholly Bonnet Modifications Batman!!!! That looks just like the bonnet mod done to a Pinto-engined Mk3 I tested 20+ years ago. At least this one's got a nicer engine, Cheers, Bill.
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Einar wrote:Thanks, I’ve been thinking something like that regarding earthing. However as I measure 12V across the steering column and horn pencil I thought the earthing was OK….. See pic – it was not added in the original post….. If you're seeing 12V between the horn pencil and the column, what voltage are you reading between the battery positive and ground? I would expect something higher than 12V from a charged battery, if that's the case then there is a voltage drop, probably in the ground side of the circuit, ie the steering column. More meaningful than checking the voltage, what resisitance are you reading between the end of the column and the battery's ground terminal? The reading should be negligible if the column is properly grounded, Cheers, Bill.
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herald948 wrote:there was an aftermarket replacement adjuster kit (MoProd, perhaps?). Are they still available, and are/were they worth fitting? I happen to have one but have yet to use it. MPK3 I think is the kit number. They work well, though I have had the odd one strip it's thread and/or splines (it was a long time ago, I can't remember exactly) when the nut was tightened. I've not seen new ones for a while, but they can usually be found at autojumbles for £15-20 for a set of four. I don't know of anywhere to get them on-demand, so another item worth buying when you get the chance. Cheers, Bill.
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A 1/4" nut (7/16" head) can usually be hammered over the original 1/4" squared adjuster, then secured with mig weld, set the welder on ahigh power setting for good penetration. It's easier to do this with the backplate horizontal on the bench, this also allows a decent cleanup before and after the welding. Sets of shoes have been turning up regularly on ebay for around £30 recently, which is a good enough price to buy in as an insurance policy. Originals can always be re-lined, so hang on to the worn shoes for the future, Cheers, Bill.
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A lot of classics use the same hubcap dimensions even with different size wheels. Off the top of my head I can think of Standard 8/10/Atlas with 13" wheels sharing the same hubcaps as the MGA and MGZB with 15" wheels. These in turn will fit Heralds, but whether they appeal to your taste is another matter. Find something you like the look of, then find out if they'll fit. If they don't you will at least have a starting point in looking for similar styles to match the Herald wheel's footprint. A lot of generic 13" full disc covers sold through the accessory market, but judging by the number I see held on with cable ties (never a good look!) they may need some help in staying put, Cheers, Bill.
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GT6chris wrote:I have not seen the trunnions without the steel disc in the base. I doubt very much that anyone else has. The OE Stanpart trunnions I own all have steel discs in the base. With newly manufactured trunnions, I've taken to applying an aggressive flux to the outside face of the join, then flowing solder in to ensure it's sealed before use. Cheers, Bill.
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Does anyone have a photograph of one of these solid bronze trunnions? Of the 100+ small chassis Triumphs I've owned, as well as countless others I've worked on, I've yet to see a Trunnion which lacks a steel disc in it's base. Trunnions on the Standard 8/10/Atlas have been solid, but they're substantially different in design and don't match the geometry of the Triumph trunnions, Cheers, Bill.
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3371 wrote:Is there any way of knowing if I have the early uprights? On the early type (or Vitesse/GT6 type), the carrier for the caliper is a seperate component fixed to the upright over the stub axle and fixed with four bolts around it's perimeter. Additionally, the steering arm passes through a slot in the upright and is bolted either side. On the late type (post 1963 on all disc braked Heralds and Spitfires) the carrier for the caliper is an integral part of the upright casting. On this type, there is no slot, the steering arm is located by the end nut for the stub axle. Cheers, Bill.
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Too true, anyone who claims the roof adds no strength to a Herald or Vitesse saloon has never tried this. Cheers, Bill.
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ferny wrote:he made a comment about people possibly complaining they don't fit as a result of their car being tinkered with in the past. I'm not a big fan of fibreglass panels, but he's absolutely right about the doors being blamed for poor body alignment. The kick-out at the B-post is invariably down to the tub sagging and spreading, but the doors are always the first target for the inexperienced fixer-upper, Cheers, Bill.
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I spoke to the owner over the 'phone last week, the problem is that the pivot for the choke has stripped it's thread in the carb's body. Unfortunately I couldn't help with a ready-to-go carb, all I have here are complete unknowns which would need a stripdown and rebuild. I reckon a reasonable repair could be done with a metal-filled epoxy filler, but it needs a tinkerer to look at it - it's the kind of job professional garages don't want to know about, Cheers, Bill.
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They have the Alfa logo, presumably no armrest then - the car's not here for me to check. I'll have a chance to check them out next week. The rear seat might become a sofa..... Cheers, Bill.