heraldcoupe
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Everything posted by heraldcoupe
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My answer was a lot more comprehensive than what I've posted here...
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I guess he wasn't happy with the answer I gave him... He needs the HS2 manifold as the carburettors have a different footprint, 1 & 1/8" throat versus 1 & 1/4". Cheers, Bill.
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The nipple has to face away from the flange, Cheers, Bill.
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There are several different manufacturers of the master cylinder boots. There are some particularly shiny ones which are extremely inflexible, others have a duller finish and will conform to heat a lot more easily. Cheers, Bill.
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herald948 wrote:Given how scarce those are, you might want to store them in a safe in an undisclosed location! Despite the supposed rarity of these, every autojumble I've attended over the past couple of years has yielded at least one new asbestos-lined set of front shoes. I guess they're only rare because few enthusiasts bother with autojumbles in the 21st century, Cheers, Bill.
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1218 wrote:Do I need to change, remove or modify the engine side valences? On most 1200s, no. There is already a cut-out to clear the rigid brake pipe which passes under the valance, the redundant hole for the drum-brake hose union is left unfilled in the disc application. It won't apply to your car, but in the case of 948s and possibly the first Mk1 1200s, there is no cut-out for the rigid pipe, the valance needs to be notched to allow for it, Cheers, Bill.
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In 25 years of Herald ownership, I've never had a properly maintained bonnet catch open itself, Cheers, Bill.
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No, the B28 & B30 have different footprints. What's wrong with your carburettor? Cheers, Bill.
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User modification, a strange one at that...... Cheers, Bill.
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Same here, but it's been very useful when going shopping for curtain poles in the Alfa! Cheers, Bill.
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It's not an armrest, it's to support the front end of your skis when they're inserted through the ski-hatch in the boot. Cheers, Bill.
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Use it first and then decide. Plenty of people ruin cars and make them unusable/unsaleable because they've changed them before appreciating how they drive in standard form. I've lived with numerous 948s and while they're perfectly suitable for town use, they're low geared with a maximum usable cruising speed no more than 60mph. The alternator doesn't make energy, it converts a proportion of the engine's output power into an electrical charge. More power required to drive the car's electrical accessories means less power available to drive the wheels. Cheers, Bill.
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With a 1959 Herald I'd do anything I could to keep it standard. Is the car in current use? Or is this a hypothetical "when it's on the road" question? Cheers, Bill.
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Raider wrote:It is a Rimmer Bros replacement Alan. Only as good as whoever makes them for Rimmers, connectors have been too long on every aftermarket loom I've ever seen. Easily trimmed-down so they fit properly, Cheers, Bill.
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Many of the replacement gearstick looms have terminals which are too long, they bottom-out against the alloy knob and push the cap upwards. The plastic cap can also lose it's plasticity with age, decent quality reproductions are readily available, Cheers, Bill.
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There were two different profiles used as-original, one with a curved lip as shown below. The second type was very similar, except the lip closed off to form a bubble. I'm surprised by the contempt shown for the reproduced the lip type seal. When I needed some for our cars about a decade ago, I was rather impressed how well it matched against the original profile I sampled against. Not easy to fit, but that's what Autoglym's Vinyl and Rubber Care is so useful for. Cheers, Bill.
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There were two different profiles used as-original, one with a curved lip as shown below. The second type was very similar, except the lip closed off to form a bubble. I'm surprised by the contempt shown for the reproduced the lip type seal. When I needed some for our cars about a decade ago, I was rather impressed how well it matched against the original profile I sampled against. Not easy to fit, but that's what Autoglym's Vinyl and Rubber Care is so useful for. Cheers, Bill.
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herald948 wrote:Hmmm, that must have been the Johnny Walker Red talking! ;) Yes, the body number plates do screw on, but it now occurs to me it's more likely one would only find primer underneath, seeing as those body number plates were always painted. I was going to mention that but you realised before I got there! Agreed that what's visible looks very much like Signal Red, general appearance adn lack of overspray onto the comm plate suggests it's original Cheers, Bill.
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If the car is the 1967 model noted in the OP's signature file, I would expect it to have the 10V stabilised gauge. This makes any swap easier as the car's original sender will fit into the tank from an earlier car intended for the 12V sender. Going the other way isn't possible as the later tanks have a smaller opening for the sender, though the fixing holes are identical, Cheers, Bill.
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Having made the saem enquiry elsewhere, official times are between 14:41 and 16:11. From past experience I'd expect to start seeing some front runners there from about 14:00, Cheers, Bill.
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I had an electric pump on my old Herald 'S' when first purchased, fitted on the advice of a mechanic to get around something or other he couldn't fix properly. I couldn't wait to get rid of it, I never did work out what the supposed fault was as the car ran perfectly well with the proper pump once properly maintained, Cheers, Bill.
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2402 wrote:I actually fill mine till it passes the seals and you get a couple of squirts before they pop. Best to pump em full anyway of top quality grease. This is why I'll only ever use greasable UJs. Adequately packing the non-greasable type is always difficult, at least the greasable types start life well packed even if they are subsequently neglected, Cheers, Bill.
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9016 wrote:I should look local for the studs or make them up . Anyone know the size - threads for them? The studs have a 3/8" UNF thread length required will depend on the thickness of the spring. Don't just measure the existing studs and add 3/4", the standard installation has the luxury of generous headspace and are above optimal length. Raising the spring reduces clearance under the access panel, so you'll need to be more precse in the length of studs chosen, Cheers, Bill.
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In my experience, no modificaion of the tunnel was necessary to install a 3-rail D-type gearbox in my 1964 1200. The only complication I can see in this case is that the 4-synchro box has a thicker flange of the larger diameter, which may make clearances a litle bit closer. Cheers, Bill.
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They're not made by Radford, Cheers, Bill.