mikew

1379 wrote:Nick , a jubilee clip will suffice; Yes it might for a while, but the rubber will harden and will probably leak at some point. So you want high pressure petrol squirting round the boot area ? it not as if you have a proper firewall between it and you in a triumph. Do you want to take the chance ? If you look at all high pressure terminations to rubber pipe, either oem or aftermarket, all of them either have "barbs" or at a minimum a rolled bead, or two, specifically designed to prevent the rubber coming away when the rubber work hardens. Additionally you shouldn't use jubilee clips, because they do not give constant pressure round the rubber. There are specific fuel line clamps available which ensure constant pressure round the joint. 50 psi or so petrol puts a great deal more strain on pipes and fittings than 4 psi from the block mounted fuel pumps to the carbs, and it is 50 psi or so after the pump, its the regulator that drops it to 40 psi for the fuel rail and injectors. It is mad to cut corners here. I had a friend and 2 of his mates cremated in a car when a fuel line burst after a crash - the pump didn't stop for some reason. The accident was survivable, the petrol fire wasn't

Nick_Moore wrote: How do the fittings stop a hose popping off a smooth metal fuel line? The only way I'd consider this, would be a compression fitting with an olive, NEVER rubber fuel line clamped with jubilee clips or similar

Richard_B wrote:You can fit the later type round wiper motor if your not fussed about originality. Dave at Canley Classics should be able to supply a recon (exchange) moter, be warned they're not cheap as they fit a TR5!  ??) Oh TR tax - IIRC the last ones I saw were about £150

5878 wrote:Right, have ordered new support bush....is it hard to fit? Yes and no, Disconnect steering column wiring looms from multiplugs Undo upper steering column UJ bolt in engine bay Undo 2 bolts that hold column to dash, and the 2 bolts in the mounting that attaches to the bulkhead Pull column out - usually its rusted in the UJ joint ! remove bush insert new bush - these can be a pig as they are now poly - heat it in warm water helps reverse proceedure ! what can go wrong - they are usually very tight in the new busk and hard to reinsert mike

The problem is the torsion bars have lost their tension. They are not adjustable, but they are replaceable. Find another set and swap them over, keep your own hinge assemblies as they are different car to car, because of the nature of hand assembly at Carbodies The method is shown in my blog 7th January this year mike

Tony, even with the puller you still need to extract either the bolts, or the studs, as both are at an angle to each other, and without one set removed the puller will not work. it is completely normal to use the 2 nut method, simply turn the 2 nuts against each other as tight as possible, this locks them on the stud, then using a ring spanner if possible turn the lower nut, the top one will stop it rotating on the stud. sometimes it helps to try tightening the stud first with the top nut - unless you are exceedingly unlucky some of the studs will come out. stud extractor tools can work, but will damage the threads. some of the triumph specialists sell an extractor tool (which is basically the 2 nut method) with extended flanges so it is easier to grip with spanners) if you really don't fancy the job a good motor engineers will do it for you, Enginuity, Wards and a few others have good, but expensive reputations - me I enjoy the challenge! good luck mike

Swiss_Tony wrote:Having had a few problems getting both heads off, and seen the info on a puller which bolts on and winds the heads off, does anyone have one that I could borrow.hire or buy? I am thinking of having one made if not. Swiss Tony, the SOC club have a few head pullers floating about, but I'd still soak with plus gas for a few weeks anyway - make some "catch tanks" round the top of the studs with rtv sealant or similar so you can leave a puddle of plus gas round the studs to save the need to keep reapplying it. I take it you used the 2 nut trick (one locked against the other) on top of the stud so that the nuts didn't rotate on the stud? mike

thescrapman wrote: Doing some oil consumption testing this weekend hopefully. If bad news either a quick rebuild on the head, or buy large quantities of Wilco cheapo recycled chip-fat oil. i think Alan is best placed to advise on replacement oil for the RBRR, and how to get your mates to deliver it enroute mike

Alex wrote:Have you two not finished those cars yet! I suggest you just pull your fingers out and get some miles on them before october! I think my misfortunes and delay are due to a cunning plot by Alan - he recommended the paintshop that I used  ;) However Andy Roberts Chair of the 2000 register may have the last laugh, because he still has Alan's engine in lots of pieces scattered over his garage floor, I think a few crates of brown ale (or similar) may persuade him to loose a few critical components for a year or so  ;D mike

Jason wrote:Having just processed both your entry forms Mike and Alan I must say now, I'm not changing your details so you HAVE to turn up in your Estates now :-) That suits me, I don't want to do the RBRR in another car! mike

AlanChatterton wrote: Yeah, right........... same as Mike, you don't really want me to list do you?! Yes, go on, I'd like to see if I have more to do than you, at least I have a gearbox and part engine in mine ;D mike

You don't really want my to do list do you? mike

I've seen it, doesn't sort out the breathing though, but could be an interim step mike

I must say what a fabulous result, I bet you are so pleased, and having followed your blog I know what a thorough effort you put into all the parts that make up the car. Well done and enjoy the car mike

Quoted from Flying Farmer To conclude, do away with the stag manifold but watch inlet tract length very carefully as this is where sucsess or failure lie. PS complete injection system cost me

Megasquirt ecu's, and enerald, omex etc, are programmable and can be mapped exactly to your engine, an old ecu from another car will probably not be correct but a compromise. The point about efi and lpg is the availability of lpg. you certainly cannot get lpg every where, probably only 1 in 50 filling stations - I don't think you could possibly do the rbrr with lpg. And yes, it is pointless swapping for another engine - particularly from my own view point with a ff system on the bw35 box. mike

why not ? they are only used on Italian exotica and race engines ? EFI on the 6 pot unit takes fuel economy from 25mpg to 35/40 mpg so its a significant improvement, should be similar on the V8 mike

Gas systems here have to be certified, but you can do the work yourself and get it inspected and certified. If you are only really after LPG, why not use the old gas mixer type - this works reasonably with carbs and could be made to fit your manifold, as it would sit as a mixer ring just under the carbs. My intention was to allow the possibility of "injection" lpg, which works as well as efi mike

Quoted from Nick Jones Sounds ok to me.  I'd imagine the main cost would be the casting patterns and tooling up for the machining.  I don't have any kind of feel for what that might be.  Numbers produced will obviously have a huge effect on total manufacturing cost but I reckon that anything up to

Collective reply to the above, sorry about this but I am busy in Edinburgh at the moment. Costs:- Megasquirt, and the injectors, sensors, throttle body etc about