mikew

It's en3 7xy.  Call me on 07801 143535

391 wrote:Will anyone be at the plough tonight or anywhere near it? Theo (Beans) has now arrived at my place and we'll take a ride down for a bit of pre RBRR banter and drinkies if anyone is about?  :) We are at the premier inn Enfield if you fancy popping over. Mike&anne car47

beans wrote: :o  :P  ;D bit of wind from the Lambrini ? McJim will know  ;D

thescrapman wrote:I think it is a combination of new seal that is "oh-so-slightly the wrong shape", slightly thinner new laminated screen and insufficient sealant. I had the same problems with Chris Allen's screen and mine. Fixed on mine, and I hope on Chris's with traditional old windscreen sealant, pumped in under the rubber between glass and screen. Did use 1/2 a tube of industrial size sealant on each !

MWG445 wrote: Jim. (Hoping for a dry, windless night at the Carter Bar control.) Just right for drinking Lambrini  ;D

Thank you all, there will be a blog post shortly, but its fixable! - and half done now :)

I might have an issue with the estate. The front diff is leaking oil (quite a lot) when hot from the  drive shaft flanges. It doesn't happen when you potter round town, but only after or during a good motorway run. Either the oil seals are u/s or the diff breather is blocked and its pressurising, or both!. I cannot risk leaving it like that for the RBRR with the speeds and distances involved, the cost of a new front diff it it runs dry will be huge, The diff is going to have to come out, which is a major operation, front suspension, cross member steering rack and drive shaft hubs off. Watch this space, but if I cannot fix it I cannot do the run.

Goody wrote:Now that I am in and will run! You'd be better off driving, 2022 miles is a long way on foot.  ;)

ferny wrote: I think this year it'll be when Mike W completes the event in the estate. So, what's gonna do it for you? I want to see myself and Anne complete it in the estate too, I didn't think the car was going to make it a few weeks ago, but now I think its in with a fighting chance. Its just its so complex and there is so much to go wrong. Still I am getting more and more confident in it, and I have checked and tested everything. But its going to be a nervous time, trying not to listen to odd noises and wondering what they are. I'll be gutted if it breaks down in a big way, I sooo want to finish in the estate. Apart from that its Dave Pearson, and Chris Sherrington, both running it down to the wire, I hope they make it and complete the run, I thought my prep was late .........

Multi purpose or lithium based grease is fine - don't change what triumph intended, stick to the original stuff. Check condition of stub axle for any "blue-ing" or signs of the inner race rotating on the stub - any significant wear replace the stub axle. Make sure the bearing cups are fully home in the housings in the hub - as you "tap" them in, you will hear a note change in the noise the drift makes when the cups are fully home - I always "tap" them round the circumference after I hear the not change just to make sure they are level. Then re grease - don't fill the void in the hub - put some grease in there, but mainly work it into the bearing cages. Tighten up the nut - usually to 5-10 ft lb, then slacken off until you can just feel play at the wheel rim - make sure its bearing play too - not in the ball joint! - it should feel the same at all positions on the road wheel i.e. top to bottom and left to right. Over tightening wheel bearings is the quickest way to ruin them - better a little too much play than not enough - unless the play is excessive all you get is a little pad knock back Once happy refit NEW split pin and dust cover - if the split pin won't go in always undo until you find a position it will fit - never tighten.

1529 wrote:I've used both types and in both new and old systems. Only problem I've ever found, is that it's very hard to get all the air out of silicone, impossible in fact. Always had a mushy pedal with silicone, which improved when swapped to normal. Actual braking performance was unchanged, just the pedal feel. This was on a track car, so tested properly ;D! I stick to normal, but change it every 2 years. I'd agree with this, the pedal always has a "springy" feel with silicone, ,and I have not gone back to Dot4 as I like the pedal to be rock solid. Silicone doesn't absorb moisture, but you do need to bleed it every so often as any moisture forms pools in the system, rather than being suspended in the fluid. Best advantage of Silicone is no paintwork damage if it spills, but then a DOT fluid spill washed away soon after doesn't damage paint either. The FF estate is on Dot fluid

AlanChatterton wrote: I have an easy bleed gunsun thing, so I will probably use that. Was tempted to use child-labour to help bleed the brakes, but right now Kiona seems to have problems understand simple instructions like "go to bed" and "go to sleep", so up, down, up down, hold it.... might be a little advanced right now! I find "wife" labour works for me - although it usually costs me a meal at a restaurant  :o

Silicon's OK I have it in my Stag, but the clutch is bad enough to bleed normally, with silicon it becomes a bugger of a job. Don't forget you are trying to force the air downhill. I had to force it through using an adapted gunson's brake bleeder - I guess its the higher viscosity. Flexi hose is no issue. Does this mean you have the engine and box back ? or just the box ? If the engine's out you could raise the slave cylinder which should help

MikeyB wrote:eeerm me too - several times over  :-/ If you have tired, repaired paint then be prepared to lose a bit. Colin scrapman has suffered sticker rash before now - his paint was also pretty tired Just think of it as a battle scar to be displayed with pride  ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D although I may not be so happy if it happens to me  :o

1874 wrote:After failing to get to the drivers meet, it now looks like i might need a new auto gearbox :( I've got a decent saloon BW35 box that you can have if you want to collect it (Birmingham or Coventry), its ex Andy Roberts and was good when he pulled it and still full of ATF

MWG445 wrote: Looking forward to fleecing you all. What have sheep got to do with this ? or is it another "quaint" perverted Scottish custom performed by  "men" ? in skirts ?? Will probably be enjoyed by Ferny in any event  ;)

Jason wrote: Get your sig then off into Scotlandshire and the land of the heathen. I know how to deal with men wearing skirts but do you know where I can purchase some haggis repellent ?  ;D

sparky_spit wrote:I have to ask...  Is Dave really going to use the Herald he is doing some minor preparation on at the moment, as described in his blog?  Or is this just a wind-up? There's less than 3 weeks to go, for God's sake. He's serious, and I bet the car is ready in time. Don't forget he has fixed and repaired small chassis triumphs for years AND he has all the parts on the shelf - no waiting until next day for a courier to deliver those essential bits that you had forgotten to order. I saw Dave and the car the other week, it certainly needs work, but if anyone can do it in time Dave can. I think he see's the challenge as another way of motivating him to restore another one of his classic historic triumphs. Still got to admire the man

Eagerbeaver wrote: 2000 miles in 48 hours followed by a night in a Travelodge! I think that deserves a special award :) A Travelodge to save £5.50- he must be Scottish or a Yorkshire man ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D

Done mine, AND packed the spares and tools, the car may not be quite ready, but I am getting prepared  :)

ferny wrote: Order a pizza to be delivered half way through? I'm mainly worried about spilling the beer

ferny wrote:Anyone got a rear bumper they don't need? Looks like mine's now fucked.  :-/ You didn't reverse into something did you ? ;)

timbancroft61 wrote: Yes, it starts at 13.00hrs. That's Sunday Lunch at the pub gone then.

The Premier Inn Enfield currently has rooms for £29 a night, for the Thursday and Sunday night, and its only 4.6 miles from the Plough - I've booked (The cars not ready though!  :o)

2597 wrote: But I have some questions about ring-gear teeth on starter and flywheel. Are the teeth in need of replacement on both? Also, there is some wear on the back of the clutch back plate presumably from release bearing? What would cause this wear and should the back plate be replaced. Thanks it looks very nice, very smart. How much is a pressure plate ? This one will fail, its wear from the release bearing, ideally replace pressure plate and release bearing, or be prepared to pull the box out  after 10 or 20k miles and replace later. In a similar fashion the ring gear and pinion are dead easy to replace now, far more of a pita later. the ring gear isn't too bad to be fair, far more wear on the pinion, but again its worth doing together. OEM ring gears are often listed on ebay. To remove ring gear, cut down between the teeth with a hacksaw, but not through the ring gear, just 90% of the way, then split the gear with a cold chisel. To replace, take a new ring gear, heat in an oven to 240 degrees or so, and while still very hot fit to flywheel, while tapping gently into place - you can use gas bottles, but you need to polish some sections of the ring until shiny and watch the colour change as it it heated, by playing the flame round and round the gear. The pinion only has a small circlip retaining it. Both of these items WILL require gearbox removal, and if you don't do both together, it could be box out twice