Jonny-Jimbo
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Everything posted by Jonny-Jimbo
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I like it, reminds me of the TVR Forward Swept ones. However, I am not sure of the gains. Looks like the exhaust passes just in front of the carb mouth. Nice hot air for the intake charge...
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Cheers Tim, That makes me more comfortable with mounting my HUCO pump on the engine block - my main reason for doing that was so I could use most of the original piping that I only replaced about 6 months ago.
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Further recee'ing done over the weekend, found some more great roads too for this event or future ones. All questions for the treasure hunt all sorted now too.
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Where does anyone have these mounted? I have one for my Vitesse but haven't got round to installing it yet. I was going to mount it off the original pump mount on the block, or would the vibrations from the block kill it?
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And another coming in! Class A 1) Chris Allen / Steve Hudson / Liz Hudson - Mk1 2000, MOE! 2) Robert Deards / Danny Faulkner - Herald 13/60 3) Charlie Deards / Matt Roughton - Spitfire 4 (mk1) 4) Dicky Milson / Alex Jeffrey - GT6 Mk3 Class B Class C 1) John Etherington / Heather Murray - Morgan +4
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Yesterday's entry deliveries now added. Hoping for a few more to come through soon!!! Class A 1) Chris Allen / Steve Hudson / Liz Hudson - Mk1 2000, MOE! 2) Robert Deards / Danny Faulkner - Herald 13/60 3) Charlie Deards / Matt Roughton - Spitfire 4 (mk1) Class B Class C 1) John Etherington / Heather Murray - Morgan +4
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Sorry Dave, mis-information in my memory there. Apologies. No harm intended and hopefully not caused.
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Also, if you cross-braced the lower arms then you would lose the adjustment build in by having the threaded adjusters. Admittedly I'd have threaded bosses welded into the ends of the tubs with LH/RH threads, rather than the adjuster in the middle. The function would be the same, but it's be a neater solution in my eyes.
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For basic machine work on the engine I can thoroughly recommend Chesman Engineering in Coventry - top blokes that really know what they're going. I think Canley's gets the machine work done there, and we have had a lot done at work too.
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After you've had used gear oil in your hair (my own fault for having long hair I guess) the only smell worse is brake fluid. Getting that crap on ya is nasty. I also find it corrodes ya hair too and makes is very brittle.
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I would be interested in doing a CT / Triumph track day at a smaller circuit like Mallory Park etc. How does one go about organising a track day I wonder?
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I did my first grass autotest last night with the Rugby Motor Club - a fantastic evening, and made to feel very welcome by everyone there! I admit I didn't do very well, but I had never driven the car before that I was in, and less than ideal for the surface, a BMW 320 turdblow-diseasel. Still, I will be going back to do more! Not sure what in... might be in my mate's VW Polo next time. Until a suitable Triumph is sourced of course. It's set me in a good mood for it though, so I hope to do the CT Bovingdon (or wherever it ends up being held) this year. If anyone is in the Midlands area (specifically near Lutterworth) then I can recommend heading down - it's to be held every two weeks!
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That is true Alec, but we wanted to retain heat in the exhaust in our case. Well, in all cases you ideally want the heat to stay in the gas and not transfer to the pipe, but as that is physically impossible, we did out best to ensure we didn't cook the fuel tank etc.
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Agreed Josh, for a non-XFlow engine it should pay off well. As a general rule I say the following works best; Stainless exhaust - heat wrap / ceramic coat Mild steel - shielding / ceramic coat. I wouldn't wrap a mild steel exhaust as it can soak up water and cause premature rusting. We had a big issue with heat in our car - there was less than an inch between the exhaust and the fuel tank. I'd made the exhaust out of 0.9mm wall thickness 316 Stainless. It was all Tig welded, with no separable joins other than the tail piece on the silencer to repack it. When we went to noise testing we passed at 110dB(A)... the limit was 110dB(A). Spot on! But due to the wall thickness heat was an issue, and the pipes glowed red. It was fantastic.... glad I wasn't driving the thing though!!
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Oil gauge can go where the oil pressure switch would be on the engine block - you'll need a T-piece to fit both, but they are available. I'd have thought water temp can do in the thermostat housing. I don't know the 1200 engines that well, but would have thought you could either use the same location as on a 1300 engine, or if absolute needs be, could drill and tap somewhere?
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Agreed with most of the above, if the wrap isn't on then exhaust will be cooler and engine bay hotter. This will mean the gas flow is less too. On one exhaust I made a while ago I welded a stainless steel spike into the collector that would glow very hot, then heat the exhaust gas meaning if travelled even faster. But that was more for fun than anything. In terms of the ceramic coating, I had a stainless steel exhaust I made coated white (bad choice, looks good until you touch it!!) I made the exhaust from port to tip including silencer box. It was in a formula type car, and we ran the engine on the dyno and in the chassis a few times before having it coated, and it did definitely mean the car was cooler as a result. We did it from a packaging point of view, so hard to say what the actual gains were performance wise. But in the space of about 1ft cube we had the exhaust system, fuel filler, fuel tank and some of the other vehicle electrics. We didn't blast the exhaust, we just took it to Zircotec and they did it all for us.
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Original Borg and Beck for the Triumphs, LuK for the moderns.
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Installation of electric fuel pump on 2000 Mk1
Jonny-Jimbo replied to Jonny-Jimbo's topic in Electrical
Raider, if the trouble is as intermittent and as weird as I have that keeps the car off the road for most of a year you really will regret saying that. All started on the last RBRR when that damn driveshaft started to throw a UJ and the diff mounts failed. That kept the car off the road for 6 months whilst I gathered bits and did it 'right' - ie, diff backplate etc blasted and powerdercoated, but then the engine started playing up. Now the viscous fan has failed too. FFS. -
My house mate just bought a knackered MX-5 Mk1, PM me with what bits you've got and I'll forward them on to him.
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Hi All, Having had so many god damn issue with fuel pumps, I am considering changing my 2000 mk1 to an electric pump. The kit I am intending to use is either a Facet Interupter (http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/fuel-pumps/facet-interrupter-electronic-fuel-pump-kit-2) or Facet Solid State pump (http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/fuel-pumps/facet-solid-state-electronic-fuel-pump-kit), both of which far outstrip the requirements set in the Triumph workshop manual. As these both deliver a very high flow rate (Triumph manual suggests 1.5 pints per minute, or 7.5 Gallons per hour, and a pressure of around 1.5 to 2.5PSI, I was going to use a Sytec Pressure Regulator too, (http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/fuel-pressure-regulators/sytec-pro-flow-fuel-pressure-regulator). I know this set up works, as it's near enough identical to my Ginetta that runs a set of Webers. I was going to mount the fuel pump on the side of the battery box probably, and make a bracket to mount on the original fuel pump studs to hold the pressure regulator. My issue really is though, am I likely to have fuel pissing everywhere, out of the carbs and all the joins as well between the tank and pump, then pump and carbs? Any advice would be much appreciated!!
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The other good thing about Superflex is that they are two piece top hats which makes fitting easier and better. Polybush ones seem to be one piece which means you have to squoosh them through and distort them which could ultimately lead to premature failure.
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I think that may end up being a job down the line. Due to various issues I only managed to get the dampers built up yesterday and not got them on the car. No matter what I did I just couldn't get the upright to be in the right alignment for the four damper bolts to fit to. I'm going to have another go today but with the anti roll bar not attached. Anyone else got any ideas on how to get it all easily moving (I don't want to split the lower ball joint in case it gets knackered in the process.)
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Hi all, I meant to post this last weekend, but the BMW builds have taken over a bit. Anyway, now the dampers have come back from Chris Witor I can look at getting the front end back together. When I stripped it all down a few thin shims fell out, but I didn't see which bolts they were on. They are also not listed in the workshop manual. Is there any way of telling where they came from and where they were? I guess they're for adjusting camber, but I don't really want to build the whole front end only to have to strip it all out to put them in. Any ideas?
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Lloyd, don't say anything too bad about JLR, it will be money they pay me that will ultimately allow me to afford to buy the panels from you.
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Thanks guys, I was hoping for someone to say 'it just so happens I have a pair here' sort of thing. Also, if anyone had any input in terms of quality of repros. As it's not even for a Triumph, I'm not after originality. I may go for something like a Wilwood set up, I'llhave to price up and see whats what.