Jump to content

Jonny-Jimbo

Expired Member
  • Posts

    1,385
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Jonny-Jimbo

  1. This makes me wonder if it's worth me fitting an override switch too - how would you wire it up? Would you just piggy-back off the thermostatic switch?
  2. Could you stick a photo up please Tim, just so I have an idea? My radiator isn't the newest of beasts, so I don't want to excessively load the fins etc if I can help it.
  3. Oh, I know the ties work - I use them on the Ginetta and others too. My worry is about future proofing the car so that if I need to get the rad out (water pump etc) I can do so without cutting the ties and having to buy new ones...
  4. Accessed by removing the tunnel carpet and then the cardboard cover with around 10 screws through key-hole plates. Chances of the car having all of them is slim. The cover may also be stuck down to the bulkhead, so be gentle with it or you may damage it upon removal! EDIT - There are screws at the top corners too, tucked up behind the dash. Easy to miss.
  5. Jonny-Jimbo

    Trim Clips

    That's a plastic one, not the spring steel original type. I'd suggest you can probably get the plastic ones from a motor factors etc for much cheaper than Rimmers price. Certainly my friends autos place sells a huge range of trim clips etc.
  6. I learned from our lighting department at work that an important part of how the light falls on the road is the filament design in the bulb itself. Not all bulbs sold after market meet the legal requirment for beam pattern. The engineer showed us using a VW Golf headlight, how without changing the position of the light, the bulb itself makes a huge difference to the light pattern. All Ring lights meet this requirement - not all after market ones do.
  7. Hmm, I was hoping to avoid drilling holes in the body if I could help it. The other thing I was considering was making up some stainless steel mounts to hold the fan that sandwich between the body and the radiator on the 6 mounting points - although on my car it's two captives at the top and then four nuts and bolts at the bottom. The problem with this is that the fan would drop every time I put the radiator in... Maybe the best future proofing would be to mount in the nosecone, so if the radiator needs to come out I don't have to disturb the radiator too.
  8. Seconded - Mike Papworth really is the man for gearboxes etc.
  9. There is also the wiring to consider and relay, but this isn't all that much of an issue, as it's just a couple of wires. I seem to remember the overdrive wiring on my converted Vitesse is actually the wire from a telephone!
  10. Organising a scatter is a bit different to taking part in a 12 car! Plus AJ has only organised catering before...
  11. Indiana Jones might be able to help on that front to get under the car, but he might damage your front grille.
  12. Hi all, I got myself an electric cooling fan kit with thermostatic switch and relays etc etc etc for my 2000 after the viscous fan died. (Well, made nasty rattles and vibrations...) How has anyone else fitted one to their cars? I was just going to use the 'pull-through' zip ties that come with the fan, but I was wondering if anyone has made up any brackets? I quite like the idea of being able to remove the radiator without having to cut the zip-ties. I was going to mount the fan on the front of the radiator in the nosecone to hide it all away. I'm also doing all the wiring in Lucas colours so it's less obvious. Anyone got photos etc of their installation?
  13. Thankfully, my workshop is now just about full. Otherwise I'd be on it haha.
  14. Oooh, at this rate AJ and I will win the Beginner Class no matter how badly we do!
  15. Is a seal has gone or the damper is seizing up then it could be controlling suspension movement more than it should, and therefore affect ride height too.
  16. Managed to put together a cooling fan kit from buying bits individually for ~£40, so around a 3rd of the cost of an off the shelf kit, including a thermostat switch and relays etc.
  17. I saw the other day on the dreaded facebook that a keen advocate of Triumphs. Chris Allen has a load of working dynamos he's giving away as  he's moving house. Might be worth contacting him if you're okay with a second hand one?
  18. Sorry Mike, what with moving house at the moment I completely forgot to get a form in the post. Is it possible to send the form to you by email and do an online payment for the sum? I think it'd help the club a lot if it could reduce the number of cheques it handles... There must be some way to put an online payment thing on the website? Would benefit the club shop too I imagine!
  19. The bolt bolts up fine to the front of the crank, but as far as I can tell there is nothing pressing against the front pulley now... Except the crank still has this on, so this will retain the front pulley? http://www.chriswitor.com/proddetail.php?prod=UKC0822SH
  20. Hi all, With my persistent running issue seemingly sorted I decided to look into the occasional crunching noise I was getting at certain RPM. Having test driven a car previously that had a failing viscous fan, this gave me a good idea of what the issue was. There was play in the fan by hand on the crank, and having dropped the rad and taken the crank bolt out, I pried the fan assembly off the crank. The play was still there, although I worry the crank nose bolt was not completely tight as I didn't fight that hard to undo it - but I was using a 1m long breaker bar... Anyway, I have decided to fit an electric fan (probably a revotec one etc on a thermostatic switch). Due to this I will be junking off the old fan - this means there is a section of crank that has nothing on until the bolt and the thick washer. Is it okay to run the car like this, or will I need a spacer sleeve made up to match the thickness of the fan bearing?
×
×
  • Create New...