James
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Everything posted by James
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Marcus, The MegaSquirt has a test mode — you can tell it how long you want to fire the injector for and it just opens them up. You really need to use the same setup as you're using on the car for it to be accurate — use the same injector drivers. James
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Maybe if you generate enough friction?
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Mike — not that it only works on mild steel as far as I know. John — probably not :)
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Mike — Mr Picton organised it for me.
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John — they blasted mine and then immediately sprayed it in what I assume is very hot aluminium powder. It's been on the car and done several thousand miles now — and it's still there and hasn't discoloured. Hopefully a good sign that it'll stay there for a reasonable amount of time!
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I got my mild steel tubular manifold coated in an aluminium stuff they use on aircraft exhausts (I think) — seems to have stuck well in the 9 months.
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Nick — if they're the same bearings and they're closer you could buy a set and turn down the spacer? I got my spacer kit from James through the post yesterday — looks good! Have ordered some new hubs (mainly for new wheel studs and piece of mind) and will be fitting it all to my car with new Timken bearings, new brakes, calipers and these spacers etc
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If that's a repro rocker then to be honest I'd trust the originals more — the new ones are generally made of butter.
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Dave — those discs Alec mentions are really good. Get the rust off quickly and properly and it'll be worth it. Otherwise it'll be looking shabby again in 6 months when it all comes through. Nothing worse than fresh paint bubbling up — it'll look worse than the "patina" it has now.
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I requested a reserve place as soon as it was sold out — fingers crossed Keith! Last year was good even with my pressurisation issues.
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1537 wrote:Check it or adjust it though? It shouldn't need to be any different to whatever you have it set at now — but for sure it will move when you install the electronic ignition.
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You will need to check the timing, yes.
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Where as a Jag is around 250 degrees I think — at least the "uprated" cams start at 260 degrees and a race cam is 290 (according to Newman) — so a different kettle of fish entirely.
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thescrapman wrote:I suspect the engine being much larger meant it was less stressed so the perceved issues were less. Or I could be talking rubbish.. :-) A big Jag engine has very mild cams compared to a Triumph— as overlap is the cause of reversion then it's likely not to appear on a Jag engine. Bruce's cam is fairly wild (I think?)
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The thing is that we know of highly tuned tricked-up 2 litres putting out a lot of power from "just" twin HS6s. (Stromberg 175 equivalent) There's nothing to say going to triple Webers or triple SUs or triple Strombergs would make more power on a highly tuned setup — but for sure the twins are not the limiting factor until you get to that point.
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I'd ask the sprayer what they want or expect you to do. As Clive says a proper DA — you can get one from Car Spares :) Probably cost <£150 Also get the decent primer Acid 8 too — think thats less than £20 a rattle can. Don't skimp on prep :)
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I've never trusted any car I've just come in to the possession of. Always do a full service when you first get it :) That's the moral of this story :)
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Nick_Jones wrote:Make and fit a spacer tube between the races as used on MGBs and as supplied as an upgrade for TRs. Stops the bearings turning on the stubs and removes any wear question. Stiffens the bearing assembly too. Nick Someone has made some of these and they'll be available soon :) I've already preordered my set.
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I've done this as Clive says — foot on brakes and clutch and then use the starter motor to free it.
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The exception to the rule — rarely ever seen a Stag driven in anger.
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I have some s/hand Stag uprights along with hubs and stub axles that I bought to mock up my new brakes — wonder if they're hardened. Richard— I've never seen a Stag driven like it needs hardened stub axles!
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Alec, I'm talking about beyond thermostat temps — all I'm saying is that if you let it get a little bit hot it can take a lot more effort to get it back down again than if you catch it earlier. I think my fan measures 10" — it's a slimline Pacet located behind the rad. Works fine as long as you catch it before it gets too hot. James
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One of the advantages of having an ECU is that I can switch the fan on and off at any temperature I like— and even switch it off above certain throttle positions (as the car is moving anyway) I had an issue initially that the engine took a bit too long for my liking to cool back down to a decent temp — I reduced the temp the fan switched on by about 6 or 7 degrees and it worked far better. Thermal runaway is a bit of a knife edge. The fan on my saloon is a bit on the small size and that needs sorting but you get the idea. (This also gives me an idea to ask the MegaSquirt developers to include a fan switch option connected to inlet air temp — can do it myself with wiring and a custom output but it would be very handy to have it done in software)
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JohnD wrote: No available pump fuel will stand much more than 10.5. Depends on which cam is used — a high performance one needs a decent CR to work — and will in fact have a lower dynamic CR.
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I second the Conti recommendation — the Premium Contacts I have on mine are great — on my second set. I put the first 185 set on before the 2010 RBRR — we flogged the car properly the whole event even through all the torrential rain. Never had a single aquaplaning worry.