JensH
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Everything posted by JensH
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Partnr 621101 - Pad, mounting, safety harness fixing - in my mk 3 parts manual. That's the only rubber I have found, but I have only experience with the early spitfires (and a single gt6+ us-import). There must be some differences between years? Would rubber washers - upon the alu spacers? - make any differences to noise? Or would it be a bad idea (body tub not stiff enough etc?)
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There might be differences between years, but on all early spitfires I have been working on, there should be a alu spacer on the front outrigger (inner point; i.e. at the engine side of firewall) and another one on top of rear shock towers. Alu spacers was used on the front valences (bracket resting on pivot bracket at the frame) on mk 3 spitfire. Rubber washers only at the seat belt mounting points, no spacers at the box section behind heel board. You can shim minor imperfections on the body tub dimensions that way (folding it like a banana!)
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There might be differences between years, but on all early spitfires I have been working on, there should be a alu spacer on the front outrigger (inner point; i.e. at the engine side of firewall) and another one on top of rear shock towers. Alu spacers was used on the front valences (bracket resting on pivot bracket at the frame) on mk 3 spitfire. Rubber washers only at the seat belt mounting points, no spacers at the box section behind heel board. You can shim minor imperfections on the body tub dimensions that way (folding it like a banana!)
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take a look here: http://club.triumph.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum10/Blah.pl?m-1229790537/s-555/ (and further down)
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When you reassemble with new trunnion bolts etc remember to use some anti-seize compound. I always go for ceramic "paste"/grease as I find copper grease to thin.
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Sorry to say. Nop! :o But you can remove (unscrew clockwise/anticlockwise depending on side) the vertical link so you don't damage it. Small hacksaw is final solution if 10 days of penetrating oil doesn't help...
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6059 wrote:All points are being taken on-board.... I have got a replacement shaft in my shopping basket ready for the next order that I put in. Any yes the potential risk is one that isn't worth it in the long run.... It will be daunting enough taking it for the first drive when it's ready... Just got to avoid the temptation to blast it down the runway before giving it a shakedown! Promise there will be a video of the first test drive all be it in a few months down the line! I did a 2000km run in 36 hours one week after finishing a nut&bolt resto on my spitfire mk 3. Very good chance to find faulty parts and dodgy repairs 8)
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If you have access to a concrete mixer and some old bike tube (and a little sand) 8)
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New Heritage bonnets are all produced at Fitchett, aren't they? Later (mk 4/1500/gt6mk3) should be better than the early ones
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Available as recon for £ 39 from eg. paddock and other Triumph part suppliers, http://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/parts.aspx?categoryID=22&vehicleId=2
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No logon needed. Firefox fine, must be local by you John. Amazing skills. Hammer and dolly only? See rebuild of spitfire too: http://www.pakwheels.com/forums/d-i-y-projects/37889-restoration-story-my-spitfire-convertible
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michael_charlton wrote:Then there is the green striped for the indicators...............or there should be! Agree - can't see any green wires???
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michael_charlton wrote:Then there is the green striped for the indicators...............or there should be! Agree - can't see any green wires???
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Eh - didn't the 1500 have a flasher and a parking light in the front valances? Sorry, have only worked on the early cars though!
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Eh - didn't the 1500 have a flasher and a parking light in the front valances? Sorry, have only worked on the early cars though!
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No front parking light?
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No front parking light?
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Don't know with the later models, but on the early spitfire, ground was connected to a triple Snap connectors for 4.7mm bullets: http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/terminalsnonins/noninsbullets.php
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Don't know with the later models, but on the early spitfire, ground was connected to a triple Snap connectors for 4.7mm bullets: http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/terminalsnonins/noninsbullets.php
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There is a rubber grommet between. Diff shouldn't move that much!
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Replace. But avoid a 'pattern' one. I always chop them off, as you newer know what is behind.
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She's got a twin here in Copenhagen. Same black and white coloured face. And doing the same; running away when something is not working 🙂 Otherwise been checking everything I have done to my car the last years.
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cliftyhanger wrote: Alternatively, it is perfectly possible to chop the top section off another od gearstick (saloon ones used to be cheap, but I expect that has changed) and weld it to the mk3 one. Been there, done it, more than once. http://www.canleyclassics.com/?xhtml=xhtml/product/gearstick.html&xsl=product.xsl But thought they were available as repro now?
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I did an OD conversation a year ago. You will need a new chassis plate as stated above, the one on ebay should do, but it's an after marked one. The OD-mount never came in 2 pieces (A + B) as far as I know; might have been for the very early cars though. I didn't use a longer speedo cable; but don't know if it was original non-od....
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They should do; well made. But if you cut off the front wings, you should be able to remove the reinforcing panel?