JensH
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Everything posted by JensH
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wait till after paint! And use weld through primer on all new and old body panels.
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Same as spitfire ones? If so, I have only had one repro LHS in my hands (a few years ago), but had the chance to compare with a NOS RHS; didn't look too bad. But you could spot the differences; the original (stanpart sticker) one had a more lose curve at the lower edge. Didn't have the two "ears" that help fixing them and missing the small "dot" next to the recess (gt6 reinforcement location?) Anyway - had the feeling, they would fit without to much trouble, but as stated, I haven't had the opportunity to do so my self. EDIT: Just had a look at Rimmers page - they seems to have improved - it has the 'ears' on now!
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Peugeot 205GT? Some VW Golf?? Civic?? Try to do a search on the forum.
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Of course - it's a Triumph 8) (good work, enjoy!)
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Dry??? Bummer! You forgot to put oil in 8)
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I have heard some old rumours (?) that they (i.e. Triumph!) compensated minor differences in the chassis with a heavy tool used at the diff's front mounting plate 8)
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Can't remember - but on the mk 3, the rear trim board is fixed with some small clips at the top and 2x2 screws just where you want yours?
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If you have access to a concrete mixer, tie it up with a little sand in (you can use an old bike inner tire) 8)
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They are listed in the parts manual but not on the drawings http://www.spit6.co.uk/7.html - see no. 26 body & fittings, page 120 (61 in pdf)
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http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-610520 2 each side. Didn't fit them on mine though and trim boards still there :-)
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Front outrigger bolt - can be handy when needed roadside 8)
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The bush has a waist shape allowing oil to pass. The hole is there for oiling the oil pump axle me thinks. I believe it was GT, that once told me to put the bush that way; really don't think it has any difference though.
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But is it the same size used on both a 1200 and on the GT6?
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From my parts-manual covering up to 1970-spit mk 3, I have: Fitted from comm.no: FD/FDU29587 approx. 713036 Retainer, centre, header rail sealing strip 713038 Retainer, outer, header rail sealing strip - R.H 713037 Retainer, outer, header rail sealing strip - L.H Lower commission numbers seems to have been without retainer as only rubber is listed? Or might have been different due to the earlier type of hood leavers? I bought a 713038 (or might have been a LH-one!) from Paddock a few years ago Rimmer use the same partno for mk 3 and mk 4/1500. I believe they are identical.
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Didn't find them on mine more or less original mk 3. Might be for the mk4/1500? (same picture on rimmers side)
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http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/ImagePopUp.aspx?i=GRID005963 3 small holes each side - see left side of Rimmer-picture. Use cup-washers for good finish. As I took the picture above, I had not fasten mine.
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Could only find this one - you need to start with the vinyl around the B-post (remember to wrap it around the corner, so the door seal will cover it).
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Tap it from below (i.e. upwards!) They sometimes brake though :B When you remount, make sure the "=-mark" is going 90 deg. i.e. the hole for the oil gallery is next to the oil pressure switch. See http://thetriumphanimal.blogspot.dk/2009/08/engine-ii.html The plug at the oil gallery - you brake one off and rest is for the floor 8) Didn't know they were made of alloy though??
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Ideally you should have the complete crank, flywheel and clutch balanced. On my last rebuild (FD-engine) I was surprised how much the engine shop had to take off the flywheel to get it right. Don't know if you are changing only the flywheel though.
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IMHO much easier to take out the complete steering column - but I have only worked on the earlier type. Would recommend you use the uprated (nylon?) bush, as I have seen the new original ones fallen apart within a very short period. Don't know the quality of the ones Rimmer can supply - but they listen an 'uprated' one as http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-209423UR
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K&N much better. Anyway if on low budget, pancake easy to improve - if you have some filter foam on the shelves.
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put some old spark plugs in and paint. Would recommend to use paint, that doesn't react immediately with fuel though.
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Not that often, when wife allows me to come out :P Just give me a call; can be arranged most days.
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Hej Daniel, du er velkommen til at se forbi og se på min 2000'er, tvivler på det kan være så forskelligt (tror det er late mk 2 det hele) :P (Just offered him to come by and have a look at my Estate) 8)
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Basic: Relays for main/dipped beam... One for the ignition switch too. Fuses: Two brown wires (originally connected to same spade connector at the control box used for dynamo) - going to ignition switcy and to light switch. They are without fuses pr. original (free from memory :-)