JensH
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Everything posted by JensH
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Not my page or drawing, but stumbled across this some time ago: http://www.spitfiremk2.co.uk/mk3.html Some colours might be wrong.
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John: Same with 4 cylinder engines.
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Re replace wiring: Depends on what you are after and condition of your existing loom. Copper wiring gets darker when water gets in, and heat from e.g. engine gets the PVC stiff. You will find out, that you might have to replace all wires passing engine. As I did my first resto (a mk 3 spitfire), I did repair the existing loom and wanted it all to look original. Bought new wires from here: http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/home/homepage.php Then after a while, I changed my mind and did build in relays for lights, MJ, extra fuses etc. If I had to do it today, I would make my own wiring from scratch.
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Looks nice and 'untouched' :-) You often find rust under the rear bumper reinforcement brackets, and on the rear deck panel, where it is bolted to the frame. Yours look really good.
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That's why its always good to post picture here :)
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Depending on condition a good radiator service /re-conditioner should be able to repair your existing one for far less.
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Don't know with a 2000ish engine, but the four cylinder ones need a copper washer on the centre bolt at the rear oil seal housing - part no 500469 - as it ends in the oil gallery?
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4058 wrote: I think it's just the way the photo is, but yes it's the original panel, it goes up! ;) Okay, thanks - pyh !! Cheers, the autistic dane 8)
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Looking good. Shouldn't be difficult to make a repair panel with 'channels' - use a chisel as 'form' and shape with a hammer 8) Re boot floor panel: Is this original? Is this the side flange (see picture)? Normally they go up, not down ... newer seen one like this before.
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6797 wrote:...without them having a lid/casing. Agree. But wanted to have good access to the fuses, so one day (...) I will make a cover in acrylic or pvc. MJ box and edis module mounted inside though. If I was redoing it, I would have made a complete new wiring loom after my own spec.
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Hi Sam, I have used the same fuse/relay box x 2 on my spit mk 3. Would have preferred one with a lid, but haven't had any problems yet. It's mounted where the old dynamo regulator was. I could have used another set of fuses - and have an original horn relay and OD relay fitted too. Fuses are (from memory...) : Main beam relay, dipped beam relay, OD, Radio and two brown wires (one for main light switch and one for ignition switch) that are not fused pr. original. There is another inline fuse at the MJ + an over voltage protection circuit from Linear Electronic (a friend of mine fried the processor chip in his MJ lite box due to a faulty generator - repro crap.....)
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PS! rear end looking good 8) 8) 8)
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97679 wrote:Thanks for the responses. JensH - so your're taking the fuel pipe between the outrigger and the body? I'm surprised there's enough space but I can't see that until the body is on. There should be enough space. Had access to a very original car +10 years ago; it was done that way - but was a spitfire mk 3 so could be different on the gt6/later etc.
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Don't know if this helps... Filter was just a temporary fix.
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I always route the fuel line above the front outrigger, and the brake pipe through - using a grommet on the brakepipe/outrigger keeps dirt etc out 8)
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Looks like your layshaft had a new bush once? NOS or better s/h ones on ebay?
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I used the ones from Rimmers - se Nicks link above. Fine for my spitfire mk 3 project. But would have liked to find some with the same hole size on the chassis as the original 'dubble-P-clips' used, as I had to drill new smaller holes.
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See picture (valance is a plastic one)...
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You have to chop away that 'bar' at the top. Its only there for transport (same goes if you can find an original stanpart valance). Then mount the bracket before you fit (bracket will help to stabilise the valance). The bracket is mounted to the front pivot part of the frame, there should be an alu spacer under.
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Take a look at the mounting points for the lower wishbone, could have done some damage on your frame.
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Done that (oil pump/dizzy drive bush) on my small crank 1300 engine (FD). There is an oil way just behind; you can find all sorts of debris there :o http://thetriumphanimal.blogspot.dk/2009/08/engine-ii.html
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I hate *bling* Been on my spit for less than half a year Il Capo is right. Avoid at all costs :B
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Thanks for clarifying - I only have access to mk 3/4 manuals here. Any ideas if it would reduce noise to sandwich an alu spacer between thin rubber spacers - or use rubber all way round? It might give a softer frame/tub, but otherwise?
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Thanks for clarifying - I only have access to mk 3/4 manuals here. Any ideas if it would reduce noise to sandwich an alu spacer between thin rubber spacers - or use rubber all way round? It might give a softer frame/tub, but otherwise?
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Partnr 621101 - Pad, mounting, safety harness fixing - in my mk 3 parts manual. That's the only rubber I have found, but I have only experience with the early spitfires (and a single gt6+ us-import). There must be some differences between years? Would rubber washers - upon the alu spacers? - make any differences to noise? Or would it be a bad idea (body tub not stiff enough etc?)