JensH
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Everything posted by JensH
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You indeed don't need to replace the entire crossmember - should do with the a repair on the outer part. It has a few bends, that will take some time to reproduce though
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Lower B-post
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Wow :o You need to get rid of rear non original part, and cut all rust out. You might be better of buying a complete box section part 807104. Sit down before you read the price! http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-807104 Cheaper at james paddock though. Heel board panel might have some damage too. Lower B-post panel has a strange shape; if fully gone, you are better of buying this as a repair too.
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2057 wrote: Thanks clifty. JOddler looks the tool for the job, thanks as i'd not heard of it before. Also came across this cheaper version :) though i'll go for the real thing Go for the real thing - made in Denmark; its a quality product - one of the very few made here :o As for panel replacement: Its not the welding - you will learn that part (practice on lots of steel sheets, old doors etc first). What makes the difference is alignment of all new panels, how sill- floor pans, heelboard, lower a- and b-post etc joints. How you make sure, doors are not sticking out at the lower rear part. Why you should not alter proportions of new panels before you know why they don't fit. That's what makes the difference between a quality job, and - what is not! 8) If you are not prepared for this, you are much better of sending your car to eg. jyclassics or some of the other few who knows their stuff.
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thebrookster wrote: I believe he is being unfaithful recently, some red painted bit o' fancy has caught his attention :) You know the type, clean lines, sleek, minimal cladding and sexy continental accent!! The GT6 has seen some use recently though, not quite relegated completely. Bruce - as Jens says, Andre's jig is plenty strong enough, your biggest issue is not strength with these bodies, it is keeping them braced when replacing panels. Pretty much any framework will likely hold it without breaking a sweat!! Cheers, Phil Oh - hands full so to speak 8)
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thebrookster wrote: I believe he is being unfaithful recently, some red painted bit o' fancy has caught his attention :) You know the type, clean lines, sleek, minimal cladding and sexy continental accent!! The GT6 has seen some use recently though, not quite relegated completely. Bruce - as Jens says, Andre's jig is plenty strong enough, your biggest issue is not strength with these bodies, it is keeping them braced when replacing panels. Pretty much any framework will likely hold it without breaking a sweat!! Cheers, Phil Oh - hands full so to speak 8)
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Two people can lift a body tub from a spitfire, so you won't need much structure to keep it safe.
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Two people can lift a body tub from a spitfire, so you won't need much structure to keep it safe.
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André did one - haven't heard from him lately? Look around here: http://www.gt6.ca/
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André did one - haven't heard from him lately? Look around here: http://www.gt6.ca/
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Here in Copenhagen area its not that difficult to find a company that will metallize with clean aluminium - for 'Coffey-money' ... Have a look around auto forums.
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Don't know the English term, but metallization wit clean aluminium - aka 'aluminizing'? (Goggle translate!) Seen it done several times, it will be more or less white - and stay that way (but not on a triumph!!) for years.
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Lip is not flush to the bulkhead panel; but doesn't have as much material left as I did remember.... Its brazed at the edge; just grind some of it off with a flap disk after you have welded in the new one. Sills tend to have a slight curve esp. at the front. Here is a picture of an original sill - just to show 'factory finish'... Curved at the dog-leg too :-) Its 1/2 an inch in front of the sill; 3/4'' if you measure behind. Mk 3 spit btw - not my car.
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Outer sill, should not be curved when on car - but they always are 8) (even on original bodywork cars - I have measured 3/4 inch at the middle and 1/2'' at the front and rear - see picture...) Sill end cap has a small lip, yes, original but on early cars (mk1/2/3) its very little (grind most of it off, if you go for originality!). A bit more visible on later cars.
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Some SKF-numbers, if any help.
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why not just buy a new one? ;D Okay, not aluminium 8)
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nang wrote:Will rad valances suit a full width radiator ? Thanks Tony. Full width rad is sitting in the same U-support? If so, then no problem 8)
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nang wrote:Will rad valances suit a full width radiator ? Thanks Tony. Full width rad is sitting in the same U-support? If so, then no problem 8)
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http://thetriumphanimal.blogspot.dk/2009/04/radiator-boards.html
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http://thetriumphanimal.blogspot.dk/2009/04/radiator-boards.html
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They are usually soft like ... but you will have to take out all window-parts. I have done it a few times with a bar mounted at the rear window channel. But: Is the door skin original? Is the outer sill and front rear wing (aka dog leg) correct fitted?
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They are usually soft like ... but you will have to take out all window-parts. I have done it a few times with a bar mounted at the rear window channel. But: Is the door skin original? Is the outer sill and front rear wing (aka dog leg) correct fitted?
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Spring/Spire Nut - U Type (just like the ones holding the gearbox cower down) and two self tapping screws going from inside. Didn't have any better pictures than this, sorry: One piece of rubber and one plate, two self tapping screws and two spring/spire nut - u-type
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I did a rebuild on my mk 3 spit engine last year, with county pistons +20. Quality was good as for pistons and rings; same weight (less than +/- 0,5grams) and same ring gaps. Your time is better used in balancing all conrods etc.
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Messy? Then ... just wait until you are putting the steering rack gaiters back on. I always fill them with grease before fitting, but I too always regret doing so :o I must admit I did put some grease behind the inner ball joint/spring as I assembled mine last week.