JohnD
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Everything posted by JohnD
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Pedant Alert! Wonderful example of Grocer's Apostrophe in the thread title Well done! John
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Pedant Alert! Wonderful example of Grocer's Apostrophe in the thread title Well done! John
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Alec, Thanks for those ideas to improve my technique. I would go through the set one by one, arranging each on the rig and taking a weight, moving on the next. This seemed to me a better way of sampling them, as the errors would be randomised each time. Taking repeated measurements of one rod with the same set-up, would insert the same rrors each time, but randomise them between rods. I had seen the suspension method used, online, but it looked even more complex. This site shows a useful loking compromise http://www.performanceengines.com/performance_images/RodBalance.jpg and now I have a small lathe, next time I will try to make journal dummies for both ends and use them both, one to suspned and one to act on the scales. Maybe I shall have to join the nose-powderers and buy one of those dinky mirrored scales! John
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Also Interesting, Andy! I don't suppose we'll ever know for sure, but it's helpful warning, i hope to anyone who wants a really well balanced motor. For a road engine, I suspect that you would have to be unlucky and on the fringes of the bell-curve to get a significantly rough engine. 69, I would like to think that our data do show two populations of rods (maybe there are more?) but I don't think that the flash on them can make that much difference. 1-2 grams, maybe, but 10-20gms??? They have to come from mismatched moulds, of different thicknesses; different batches. As I suggested, possible at a rebuilders, but not excusable at the manufacturer. Don't think we can sue Triumph now. My original data above was on a set from one engine. My other solution was to rootle around in my boxes of parts and make up a matched set, but others can't do that. You have to have been mucking about with these a while before you have that sort of back catalogue! John
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As you say, 69, rods should be less than a gram between them. But my measurements varied excessively. Eyeballing shows the two groups, but the values are so all over the place, vene that has to be in doubt. Remembering that each 'Series' is one rod, the range of weights for each is between 26 and 52 grams. The standard deviations (StDev) for each rod are between 8 and 16 (lets not bother with decimals) For a reasonable distribution, 99% of values should lie within 6 StDev of the mean. In these populations, 6 times the StDev is about TWICE the range! 200% of the values! In other words, its CRAP DATA! There is too much variability in the measuring method. I wouldn't sharpen a pencil on that basis! Let alone adjust the wieght of some rods. How could I know if I had got it right or not? In fact I found someone who could do it, for a fee, and I have lovely balanced rods. But not unreasonably, he won't show me how! Why should he? So, I'd love to know where I am going wrong, and how others do it! John PS I am talkng the big end weight, as above. NOT the total weight, which is easy to measure accurately on any set of scales that will weigh down to 1 gram. Were you measuring total, or big end weight, 69? Thanks for the data. Interesting that you found the same. Just a thought. Was your engine as it left the factory, or could it have been rebuilt? I could see different batches of rods getting mixed up at the rebuilders. PPS When I was doing this, I eBayed for a set of scales to this accuracy. There are hundreds for sale! Often with a handy mirror attached. For, ahem, powdering your nose, as it were. God's Teeth! Is everyone on the game?
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If you look closely at my pic, there IS a knife edge as the fulcrum. The Giant Crown Bottle Cap was because I didn't have a lathe to make a dummy journal. You can just see the sticky label on the scales to mark its centre point, through the plastic bag used to mollify 'er indoors. The level is to level the rod. What you can't see is that the knife edge was adjustable in height to acheive level. I recognised that my lash-up might not be accurate and hoped that repeated measurements would produce an average that could be useful. But I never achieved consistent values. They were all over the place, almost random. The chart below is of the big ends, with the fulcrum at the other end, and a smaller bottle cap. The small ends were even randomer. Each series is a single rod. I can see that there are two populations of rods, but I'd not modify any single rod on this data. Be glad for advice on where I went wrong!
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It's in the North West, but I've had a Triumph Six crank and flywheel balanced at MiniSport. http://www.minisport.com/ If you have any small industrial estates around you, poke about for a machine shop, and ask there. If they don't do it, they will know who does. Balancing pistons and rods is a different matter, one of weighing them and taking off metal until they all weigh the sam as the lightest. But if you really want a balenced engine, the the rods need to balanced end for end, and that requires very specialist kit. I tried to make my own - it didn't work! Aftet you have balanced the rods, then theyshould be peened, to close up any cracks that your machining has opened. Again, your machine shop may help. Good luck! John
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George, The front turrets are desigend to be canted like that, and to mount the engine slight tlited backwards. The holes in the chassis rails dictate this and unless they have worn oval, most unlikely, then the angle is correct. See series of artilces in Courier, 159-162, by Carl Heinlein, and this diagram (it's a Word file, so clik con on it to see the picture) John
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I can see a blood frenzy developing here. Whereas intermingled, with the cries of "Slag off Halfords" are several stories that tell the same story. Overnight charging followed by an explosion. Old fashioned chargers just keep stuffing electrons into the battery, when it could store no more. Result, electrolysis and an explosive mixture of hydrogen and oxygen, that can be detonated by the smallest spark. This won't happen while your car charges it, as long as the regulator works (see story above) and anyway, the air changes under the bonnet will blow away the explosive gases. I don't think Halfords have anything to fear from your litigation! I use and abuse Halfords batteries (Levae them unused for months then re charge) and swear by them. Just don't misuse them. Nor do I agree that Halfords, their employees, managers and products are a load of rubbish. A while ago, my garage was raided; every tool in the shop gone. With the insurance money I went to my local Halfords, spoke to the manager, and we did a deal. I got a complete set of Halfords tools, in roll cabinets and cases, at a bargain price and a Trade card to go with it. The tools are very good quality indeed, in fact I think they are only bettered by SnapOn, and equal to Facom. I had one externsion that broke -replaced without hesitstaion several years after buying it. The cabinets - so-so, I need new ones now, bent drawers, runners worn, but fifteen years of heavy use? Can't be bad. Don't rubbish Halfords without reaosn! John
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Where are you Tim (Tim?)? Get along to your local Area Group meet, and ask if anyone here can come and help you. JOhn
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Where are you Tim (Tim?)? Get along to your local Area Group meet, and ask if anyone here can come and help you. JOhn
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Timing set ten BTDC but certain on firing stroke? Easy to set 180 degrees out. Check rotor arm pointing to correct plug. Then try some KwikStart to confirm that ignition IS woring. If carb wrong will run for a few seconds then stop.. If that is so then Ignition OK fuel not john
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Is this the 1" lowered springs? Pt.No.209009UR? As they seem to have as many turns as the OE, they can't be much stiffer, but the Rimmer site offers no detail on lbs/in (pounds per inch on compression = stiffness). An OE spring is 206lbs/ins. 'Performance' springs would have stiffness ranging from 330 to 650lbs/in. I think you would need the first to notice any difference in ride quality, whereas the 600s will shake your fillings out. So ask Rimmers what their's are. John
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A chart of spring lenghts, free and fitted, and other parameters has bene published here many times. JOhn
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Don't know if this is true for four cylinder cars but it is for the sixes. Triumph cunningly offset the four holes in that cam sprocket, so that you could gain or lose fractions of a tooth to optimise timing. You only have two holes, but if your sprocket is marked on the back, have you inadvertently turned it back to front? John
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You could ask these guys: http://www.monmouthplastics.co.uk/home John
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Fuel tank sealer, hmmmmm? A tank containing inflammable and explosive fuel, that is so corroded that it has a hole in it. No puncture incident, just rusted out. No idea of the extent of the corrosion, no internal inspection (not possible without fibre-optic kit), no pressure test. And you are willing to trust your life to a plastic sealer that you hope will cover up all the holes and potential holes. A sealer that you "slosh around" inside the tank, in the hope that it recahes all the parts in sufficient quantity. A sealer that may not remain intact in the face of alcohol containing fuel, and may just burst in the face of an impact anywhere on the car. Come on, guys! I know that a new tank isn't cheap, but neither are new Triumph owners - we need you and don't want to lose you. Please, save up and buy a tank! John
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Lawn mower? Low compression, it'll run on it fine. Or modern, if it's petrol. Put it in when the tank is low and top up with some pump fuel. JOhn
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Forgot to mention, if work is justified on a tank, then high pressure steam cleaning will get rid of fuel residues and make it safe for welding. Anywhere that runs lorries may have a suitable steam cleaner. I've had my tank modified by brazing, and the brazer did fill the tank with water to make it safe. John
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If there ever was a car part that is 'mission critical' it is the fuel tank. And if it has a pinhole in one place, think how much internal corrosion must have thinned the metal elsewhere. This is a replacement indicator, not one for messing about with risky repairs. John
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That's the problem with a diffusion silencer, the more plates, either fixed inside a box, or on the end of a SuperTrapp, the more back pressure and power loss, It's a tuning balance with the noise reduction. Resonance boxes don't do that, but are difficult to tune, unless you can work out a sliding, trombone-style box! Smith & Morrison's book doesn't tell you what to do, it discuses at lenth what had been tried. John
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It's extraordinary that over a hundred years after the first internal combustion engine, exhaust silencing is still as much an art as a science. There is only one specialist book available, and that was first published in 1962. No doubt the manufacturers have done much more research since then, but the knowledge is kept as commercial secrets. http://books.google.co.uk/books/about/The_scientific_design_of_exhaust_and_int.html?id=oIZTAAAAMAAJ&redir_esc=y What can be said is that the whole exhaust system influences noise, and that manufacturers who try to provide a standard silencer box for various engines and manifolds will disappoint their customers. Two main principles of silencing; Resonance and diffusion. First provides a box around the pipe in which the sound may resonate, and the energy be used up; second slows the gases down and reduces sound energy. Both need to be tuned to the rest of the system Some designs of silencer with a removeable end plate can be re-packed, but tend to be more expensive. "SuperTrapp" silencers can have diffudion plates removed or added, but are VERY expensive! John
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OOps. Jeff's car had Keihin Carburettors I missed that you were into injectors, so I fear that even Jeff may not be able to help. But how about this page: http://injector-rehab.com/shop/Flow_Rates.html John
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Jeff McNeal, the Onlie Begetter of the Totally Triumph Net website in the States, built a Spitfifre with Keihins. http://totallytriumph.net/TriumphCarForums/index.php He even wrote a book about it, "Mrs.Jones and Me"! Although he no longer owns a Triumph, he still visits the website, and can be PMed there. Ask him! John
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I have one of those: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HONDA-CIVIC-1992-2000-EG-EH-EJ-EK-EJ-EM-ALUMINIUM-ALLOY-HIGH-FLOW-RACE-RADIATOR-/350568250120?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Car+Make%3AHonda&hash=item519f7efb08 A whole LOT cheaper than an original design radiator. It needs a bit of work to add brakets to the side, and I fabricated a new thermostat cover to take the outlet to the right instead of the left, but when you are achieving a saving of SIXTY EIGHT PER CENT almost anything seems reasonable. This replaced a reproduction Triumph-style radiator that developed a leak around the bottom hose. I tried having it repaired, but the radiator man commented that it was poorly made, probably in China or India. In particular the bottom connector was originally a tube that went right across the depth of the core, so tht it was well anchored. This copy was just soldered to the wall of the bottom tank, so that the seal was inherently weak. John