JohnD
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Everything posted by JohnD
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maz, BLUE smoke is usually oil burning, which implies that the oil is getting into the chambers either down the valve guides or up from the crankcase. In the second case, a head overhaul is unlikley to help, so you should plane to pull the sump bring the pistons up, to see if the piston rings are worn or sticking in the grooves, and if the bores are in good condition. Simple inspection will show the last. On head work. New valve guides will be necessary if you find any slackness at all in 'wiggling' a valve in the guide. It should be firmly held. There has been some correspondence on the Sideways site about bad, new guides so beware. Only exhaust valve seats need steel inserts - the valves are steel - and new pushrods are rarely needed, unless you skim the head a lot and need shorter ones. Valve springs? I you want it for a road car, I'd keep the old ones. You local machinist will need to cut seats in the new steel inserts for you, but you should then grind them in, with valve grinding paste and a 'posser' or 'lapping tool', a wooden rod with a suction cup on each end. See eBay and many descriptions of the hand technique/ http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=valve+grinding+tool&_sacat=See-All-Categories JOhn
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Jesus, Johnnie, I've heard of getting your Dad to do your homework, but this is a bit much! You are part of the University of Auckland Formula SAE team, competing in the official, International, indeed Global, contest for small, student-designed race cars, and you want us to advise you on silencing? Away with you, you soncy student. Away to the library and your tutors and to do some work! Research on silencing is badly needed - little seems to have been published since Smith & Morrison http://www.amazon.co.uk/Scientific-Exhaust-Systems-Engineering-Performance/dp/0837603099/ref=sr_1_2?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1336723483&sr=1-2 and they showed that more is to be gained by tuning the pipes than fiddling with the silencer. You could be in on the ground floor! Exhaust Professor of Silencing? John
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I have a piece of pipe that will just slide over the end of the exhaust pipe. An internal fit would do as well, and a simple self-tapping screw will secure it. The pipe has two bolts though it at right angles, and the space between can be filled with wire wool. Just enough to satisfy the circuit regs. Lasts long enough for a track day, and you can restuff it any time. John
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Bainzy, You see the cutout in the Diff.mounting plate, in your own photo? That's where a single exhaust pipe should run, so yours is rather low. Can you raise it any at the front? And the Y-piece, where the single front-to-rear pipe divides, should be canted, so that the actual divider points down, and then the tail pipes point up. This allows a dip in the middle that clears the diff mount plate, for the rear of the silencer boxes to be higher and the tail pipes lower, clearing the valances. This pic of Silverback soon after it was built shows what I mean, although I cheated by removing the spare wheel well, doing without a rear valance, and even needing cutouts in the lower edge of the tailgate. John
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I actually tried this one.
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Xs fuelling with pooling in the inlets could allow running on for a short while. Or, with closed throttles, worn piston rings and xs crankcase pressure, you could be dieselling, running on engine oil vapour sucked up from the sump. That will go on until the sump is empty! John
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Are you concerned that 6 thou will take your CR too high, and want a thicker gasket to reduce it? What will the CR be with an ordinary gasket? Without doing the sums, I can't guess what that change would make, but I don't think that 6 thou is very much. I would recommend not guessing. You need to measure the present chamber volume, bore and stroke, and do the CR calculation. Don't forget to include gasket volume - an ordinary gasket will usually tighten to a thickness of 1mm. Custom gaskets can be made, from specialist gasket makers, to whatever thickness you want, but they are NOT CHEAP! John
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That regulator looks curious to me, in that it reads up to 10bar, 140psi, but the connectors are for push-on hoses with screw clips. Do you think that's sufficient/safe, Marcus, for LUcas Pi pressure? All the high pressure connections on OE Lucas and from the usual aftermarket suppliers of Pi gear are compression fittings. I suspect that it might do for modern EFI systems that run at less than 50psi. John
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Here's another solution. When I fitted O/drive, I couldn't be *rs*d to find and fit the OE switch, so put push-on/push-off switch on the steering wheeel, with a length of 'curly-whirly' to connect it. The tiny bracket on the wheel also carries a warning light. John
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The point of phosphoric acid, unlike other organic acids like citric, is that iron phosphate is relatively insoluble. It dries to a hard rough surface ideal for painting. Washing off steel treated with citric will remove the iron citrate, and washing off excess phophoric acid is probably no harm. As for neutralising it, the chemistry gets complex and you might remove the phosphate. Wipe if you must but I prefer to just let it dry. It is, shall we say, mistaken thinking to leave any metal parts in an acid bath longer than they need to be there. Iron oxide is more vulnerable to acids than the native metal, but not so much that it won't be eroded. The weak, organic acids widen that window so that they will attack the oxide in preference to the metal, but they are not intelligent enough to stop when that is done! John
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Gary, If you haven't one, this is where you see why a workshop manula is useful. Here's a page from thr Spitfire WSM, of chassis dimensions. If the distance you wnat isn't mentioned, the drawing is accurate and you cam measure what you want and then scale it from a known dimension. The original in my manual is on a sheet only about A5, but I'll send you the best scanned copy I can if you wish, just PM me. John
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Look here, "bestquality03" whoever you are. I really, really dislike peole who offer petifogging criticism of the tiny mistakes of others. Don't argue with me, argue with Rimmers: http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID008077, who ahev the part, on that part num ber, in stock. If I have the part no. wrong, mea culpa. But if I describe a part as 'late GT6' when it's really 'late GT6 in America' or 'in 1500s', WHO BLOODY CARES, as long as the part number is correct? John
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I can't swear on a stack of Spitfires, but on other 'small chassis' Triumphs there is no projecting hub to engage with, locate and support the wheel. Vitesses, for one. I did exactly as you suggest, Spearson, on my Old Blue Vitesse (pic), with no problems. Subsequently, I moved on to wider steels and to Revolutions that require a similar spacer, and although racing does lead to axle failures, it's not the wheels that fall off, just the whole hub! I would have no hesitation is using the kit you have for road use, but use steel wheel nuts, not the O/e alloy ones, which are too soft. Chris Witor can supply steels. John
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OR, you pipe it, Front Right + Front Left Rear Right + Rear left then add a brake pressure regulating valve in the primary rear pipe. Voila! Adjustable brake balance, without the bother of two master cylinders! A late GT6 master is a tandem. Part No. 213690 A recess in the bulkhead is required. John
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Respect for the enterprise, and the workmanship, Theo, but universal alloy spacers cost about £3 each, and weight a lot less. See: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/4-X-5mm-.....C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318
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All, As there have been several enquiries about rear springs recently, I will append a chart that John Thomason published in the Courier, many years ago. I have added some data that I acquired, to fill some of the gaps that are still there. If anyone can fill those, please let me know. I'll post it as an image, as the register of tables always goes to pot when I post them on MsBs.
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Irish, Why is red ectoplasm coming out of the engine? Do you need to call GhostBusters? (Remember - DON'T cross the streams!) Nhoj
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I fitted a dual circuit to the Sb, because: I couldn't find a handbrake cable to fit (Vitesses never had long halfshafts) so I made a hydraulic hand brake. And the UK MoT regs demand a 'seperate' system for the hand brake. It's pushing the regs a bit, but my MoT man says if you have the handbrake cable fitted, how is he to know if that or the hydraulics are working? John
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Dawson, Sorry if I sounded censorious! Like you, many of us take safety seriously. For those who don't - if it wasn't for the cost in health care and benefits, which you and I pay for, I'd just think of it as evolution in action. Jhn
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Thoroughly agree with Freebird. The seat back is only lightly built. In a crash the weight of the passenger will be several tons, and this belt witl just crush down the seatback, allowing passenger to swing forward, striking head on front seats and probably releasing them from the belts completely. The anchor behind the shoulder should be less than 10 degrees above or below it. An anchor that allows the belt to run at less than 45 degrees below the shoulder is acceptable, but not this! An inertia reel on the floor behind is also acceptable, but there should be an anchor in the above position, that the belt runs through. If that is the part seen above the inertia reel, partly obscured by the belt, then it should be much higher! On the window sill, for preference and if that is strong enough. John
