RedRooster
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Everything posted by RedRooster
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Buy an active mask, they are not expensive nowadays & make starting the weld so much easier than prodding around in the dark. RR
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Doubt if your need that, the boot is small & mine is full of spares & a can of tyre inflate. RR
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Have you got a metal bender? RR
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Get a blanking grommet then punch out a hole in it for the tube. RR
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Wiring harness self made and enhance. Need plans
RedRooster replied to ernstmarkus's topic in Electrical
A second recommendation for VWP RR- 12 replies
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Wiring harness self made and enhance. Need plans
RedRooster replied to ernstmarkus's topic in Electrical
I didn't say that, you can fuse up whatever circuits you want, but i'd start with a new harness as a basis. RR- 12 replies
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Wiring harness self made and enhance. Need plans
RedRooster replied to ernstmarkus's topic in Electrical
Personnaly i would buy a new harness, then add in whatever else i needed, that way at least most of the colour codes are right. Use heatshrink & a permanent marker to identify the new wires. RR- 12 replies
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Well the bits under the headlights are available, i put new ones on mine. RR
- 281 replies
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184 wrote:Nice work John, Might need some advice in a couple of years as I fancy having a go at the ultimate kids toy car.. http://cars.uk.msn.com/news/is-this-the-world%E2%80%99s-greatest-toy-car Need a kid first. That is just sooo cool, build it anyway & just rent a kid, it'll be cheaper. RR
- 23 replies
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gt6878e wrote:i couldn't get the sump off mine from underneath......waste of time trying. Engine out job Sump came off easily enough on mine? RR
- 14 replies
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Having just resealed the front crank plate with the engine in situ, i agree with the comments above, not nice, but i had little choice as another lump of rusty metal was in the way the usual hoist location. I maked a jacking point for the front engine plate, with a bit of 25mm oak board drilled to clear the crank & pick up on the various fasteners at the front of the engine, the board was proud of the anti roll bar by about 2" enough to get a jack on it, i did have other back up stands in place just in case it broke! RR
- 14 replies
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nang wrote:Thje actual heating will affect the tensile strength of the axle, not just the bit you have welded, DON'T DO IT !! Tony. I agree, if the shaft is knackered its knackered get another one. RR
- 24 replies
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My manifold pipe was blocked too, strange as i cleared it out a few months ago, where does all the muck come from? RR
- 51 replies
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thebrookster wrote: I quite agree, the skim is a good idea. However, I am not certain where you are based greenie, but �36 might be bit hopeful if you live in England, particularly the south. For some reason your engine shop prices tend to be a bit higher?? Fer fecks sake don't get it done in France, 110 Euros!!! for the last four pot i had done & it was only a 3 thou skim. RR
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Drill a 3mm hole in the thermosat anyway as insurance. RR
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Just checked Vizzards bible, your right, he says to advance a new chain by 1 degree. The chain has 600miles on it, so hopefully the initial stretch is out, pity its 19years old :( RR
- 7 replies
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796 wrote:set it to 103 if ye useing a new chain, as in a short time , chain stretch will make it 105. follow,!! M I thought it was the other way around?
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Timed in at 106/107 on a new chain, so i'm happy with that, hopefully the new exhaust & carbs will make the most of it. Thanks again. RR
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Thanks lads, perfect timing excuse the pun, DTI's set up ready to time it in. cheers RR
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Does anyone know what to time a TR5 cam too, i've searched the archives but unsure if its 110 or 105 degress. RR
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OK Guys, you can do a better job cheaper with a bit of garage chemistry, most of the items you will already have so its also cheap. 1. Plastic tub, dustbin etc..you can use metal but the dog won't like it. 2. A battery charger, a basic one, around 4-5 amps. 3. Water, surely you must have that. 4. Washing machine powder, a couple of cups of. 5. A cut off of roofing lead, (you can use a scrap of steel though i have never done it that way) 6. Fill tub with water, add powder, stir. 7. Drape the lead over the tub so its in the water. 8. Battery charger +ve to the lead, -ve to whatever you want to degrease/ derust / paint strip. 9. Turn on the charger, within 30 seconds the water will bubble. 10. Depending on how fresh (not quick) the mix is or the mass of the object leave it go for 3-12hrs. An engine / rear axle will take a couple of days smaller objects like a flange say 6 hrs. 11. Once out of the tank brush down & clean off with spirits. Try it out & enjoy. RR
- 25 replies
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Non bio, non scented, but you have to use elcetrickery to make it work ;) and work it does :) RR
- 25 replies
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3815 wrote:Sourced from Asda.. 48p per bottle.. Sainsburys had ran out.. Are there other derusters out there.. Washing mahine powder, your missus should have some. RR
- 25 replies
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The tank does a good job, plus it's PH neutral so no problems with acid eating things away, heres a rear flange i did last week. RR
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Pretty sure it should just come to a stop. Low profile drain pan works a treat, i'll put it back on top of the dustbin when i'm done ;)
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