RedRooster
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Everything posted by RedRooster
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Get the best fit you can with or without the clips, then a very small S/S self tapper to hold the edge the clips don't, a smear of waxoyl on everything internal & away you go. RR
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7598 wrote: didnt realise you had been in my car. :P I'd better lay off the pies for a while then :)
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Tell the passenger to loose weight? RR
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From experiance if yours just need a light overhaul it's easy, however if they are looking aged & are worn then really its a specailist job as they can do lots we can't & they come back looking like new too. RR
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490 wrote:Sorry for pointing out something obvious but - the Hi-torques also require both starter motor terminals to be connected together, i.e. one spins, one engages. It couldn't have been that simple? Thats true, also pattern solenoids are rubbish. the best ones have a red button so you can crank the engine by pushing it, got me out of a few problems over the years. Theres a couple on ebay at the moment for 99p which is a steal, i can't bid because they won't post to where i live, but if anyone here wins, i would buy the 2nd red top off them. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/130917795997?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
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3106 wrote: I have installed a new set of 6 X 14 Minators with the nuts provided and I have a good 1/2+ inch of thread in contact with the lugnuts. Is this not enough? How many turns do you get on the nut? When i fitted minilites the original studs where suffcient to get the nut on, but not long enough really, i went the Jigsaw route, but the Landy one seems pretty popular. RR
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4526 wrote:RR i'm thinking of that i can use the wheel nut from the spacer wheel ( that is metal) and with some washers pull it in ;) Worked at the back ones :P Hop to get the old ones out ? :-/ Tap em out with a hammer & a block of wood, easy, pull the new ones in with a nut, spanner & a socket over them. RR
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4526 wrote: They are 3/8 48mm studs from a Early Dolly Sprint , Jigsaw Racing also sells them ( also contacted him) . hopefully i don't need to get the hub of :/ But think it does need to come off , so another day of work .. hope they fit then ! ;) Will keep you posted ;) ;) You don't need to pull the hubs, they go in just.. Also don't use a windy gun, your snap them :-/ RR
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'for well over 10 years' so they say. http://www.canleyclassics.com/?xhtml=xhtml/product/catkit1.html&xsl=product.xsl
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2356 wrote:I'm now sitting about three feet higher! Weird isn't it, takes a while to get used to the new view. RR
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timbancroft61 wrote:http://www.wilshers-garages.com/ Peter Baldwin at Wilshers used to be a recognised SU expert. A very successful Mini racer. Seem to remember that he did marvels with Nigel Gair's revvy 2000 mk2 saloon. Used Peter a few times, always came away with a better running car. He's also pretty good at sidedrafts. RR
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2597 wrote: Any tips for ballancing carbs? I used one of these on the GT, nice bit of kit. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dellorto-Weber-synchrometer-carb-balancer-tool-made-in-Germany-not-China-/290682796527?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item43ae0b79ef
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Give Owen a call he sells all the bits to go with the foams. RR
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Take a look at the back of the fuse box, you may find one of the wire terminals has been pushed back giving you an intermittent fault. RR
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I'd go unmoulded you can tug them around to fit & they are always oversized so trim to fit, i'm sure someone else will be along in a minute to say moulded. RR
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Not had this with a Triumph but other classics, solution then was to make up an adjustable slave push rod. RR
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Why not ask Owen if he wants to start a new line & he could use your seats as templates :)
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Start here then have a think, http://www.wolfitt.com/ RR
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thescrapman wrote: Long Centre Branch. What you have on performance exhausts such as Minis where teh centre 2 exhaust ports are siamesed. Of no relevance to Triumphs..... :-) Sorry gents, grew up on A-Series motors. RR
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Thats a pretty good fit, like you say the first join onto the LCB is critical, it'll be interesting to see how much clearance you have once the cars back on its wheels & settled. I'm also using those clamps, well i would be if the things ever turn up in the post! RR
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Looks a better fit than mine was, have you a picture from the front to show how much the Y section hangs down? RR
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7271 wrote:Hi, I have just purchased two Phoenix Performance Exhaust Rear Silencers. They are looking great but I was shocked to see I can look right through them.... Is this normal? Shouldn't there be any muffling taking place? Did I buy the wrong ones? Thanks, Michel Does it fit though? the bends in mine were a bit out so the Y sat about 6" lower than it should of. RR
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1903 wrote: My biggest paranoia is that the bearings are worn out and need replacing Is this possible without knocking everything else out of whack? 50/50 in my experience, best to measure the old & new bearings thickness before you fit that way your have an idea, also use the freezer to cool parts before you fit & if you lucky at work an induction heater for the bearings, saves bashing them on (can't find the photo's of the last time i used my mates one, but it made the job so easy). RR
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1903 wrote: How do I go about checking the pinion preload? Do I need to buy another torque wrench, or is there another way? Ther's always another way, this is my 0-10lb/ft torque wrench :) even the tie wrap was 2nd hand. RR
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7235 wrote:hello RR, i have a home made bench folder, it works quite well, but the rest is all hand made. i will use the spare, i would`nt use that foam stuff if you paid me. Fair enough, but i've never had a puncture, ever, in 29 years, lot of other classic problems though. saying that i'll probably get two tomorrow. RR