RedRooster
-
Posts
416 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Never
Content Type
Forums
Blogs
Events
Downloads
Gallery
Membership & Shop
Everything posted by RedRooster
-
8017 wrote:Its a simple one with a sprocket type wheel fitted where the rotor arm goes I guess it works using the Hall Effect with an optical switch and a sensor to time the spark anyway it works very well so I am going to keep it and I might fit the same to my MK1 if I can find a NOS one. Got 2 of them in a box in the attic, had a heap of trouble with them donkeys years ago, but in retospect that was probably due to the dizzy spindle being worn. You can have them for the price of postage plus a couple of pints. RR
-
Agree with M on this one, similar to my T9 conversion problems, an adjustable slave rod and a die grinder is your friend.
-
Does this help?
-
Bulldog clips are a good idea, nicking the clothes pegs not so ;) if you want to eat at tea time RR
-
Make sure you decent / new rear boards.
-
8112 wrote: So I have spent the last few weeks considering the sale of the GT6 and the parts and have been monitoring the adverts for a Decent yet relatively cheap TR7 FHC. It's a tough decision, but not driving a car is just doing my head in... Time for a beer to aid the thinking process. Ah a restoration low point, we all go though them (apart from sheepy who likes rust) at that stage, i haven't done much to the other project for a few months as i keep finding things i wish i hadn't, but i'll keep with it, if i sold it i'd never forgive myself. So keep the faith it will happen, sooner or later... RR ps, why don't you buy her another car? then you can keep the toys? ;)
-
I changed mine as a pair, i got a good deal and it wasn't much dearer than just buying the MC.
-
I'm sure i spelt mess differently Mr Moderator.
-
Yoko A-drives, good all round tyre;, good for rain, mud, cow shit and sun.
-
I have a set of adjustables on my wish list, as i spent a day or so setting up the front camber / castor, but could do little with the rear due to the fixed geometry. RR
-
Try Duck Oil instead, as normal oil tends to react with rubber. RR
-
Can't rememebr how you built the car up but if you did it on stands then the suspension wouldn't have been loaded. Best to have it on the ground, loosen the suspension bolts then re-tighten just the nuts, if you turn the bolts your putting stress into the rubber bushings. RR
-
You can still get the Delco dizzy's refubished as new. H&H did mine.
-
Before you do that, measure the centre of the joint to the end of the threads, more than likely the new ball joint will not be exactly the same length & your settings will be out.
-
redoxideVit wrote:I did mine BMC green because my MK 1 Mini Cooper was that colour. I thought BMC green was lighter than that, my Sprite engine is? i won't post a picture of a non-triumph engine incase it upsets anyone. Oh and you want to re-do your linkage, you will never get them syncronised like that as each carb has a different opening arc. For the GT6 i got some engine paint made up in the body colour, if i was doing it again i would paint it black though. RR
-
Nice job, doesn't sound like a motorbike which is good. I would take the thermal wrap off the manifolds though, i tried it once and rotted out a Janspeed manifold in a winter. RR
-
Straight 6 inside?
-
esxefi wrote: while the tunnel cover is out why not make an access plate so you can check the g/box oil level easily. :) I like the idea of that, has anyone done it before & whats the best way to fabricate one so that the cockpit stays dry? Also is a flap in the carpet a good idea, i think mine may fray. Anyway following this one closely as it's similar to my 'goodbye 2nd gear thread', got new master & slave cylinders to go in over the weekend hopefully, then i may or may not be in a similar gearbox out situation. RR
-
Lovin the paint job nice texture :) Good luck with the restoration.
-
cook1e wrote: The Original Girling one was going to cost more to fix than a replacement Lockheed one. Having just had a Girling professionally rebuilt, i can confirm that comment. http://www.jlspares.com/ Nice little company to deal with though.
-
Yes the diff, EP90 i recall. RR
-
Just set your type pressure to 5psi, your never notice the play :B
-
Has it got any oil in it first?
-
2806 wrote:New wiring harness before wrapping. Just a tip, when you've wrapped it cover those metal clips in adhesive heatshrink to prevent any chaffs. RR
-
Servo easier to drive but you will miss a bit of feel (actually quite bit) if your pushing on a tad. So for moping around then fit a servo, but for going for it, then no, depends how you drive, also depends on what brake set up you have, standard or modified. RR