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RedRooster

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Everything posted by RedRooster

  1. Pretty much the last thing to do on an engine that is in a high state of tune, will need balancing as well like mikeyb says. RR
  2. My old switch cover cracked, so i bought a replacement that cracked too! Got a band of large diameter heatshrink holding the cover on now, does the job & doesn't look out of place. RR
  3. 2597 wrote:I dont suppose you made any paper templates with dimensions John? Molten, i believe you owe me some ali bits, i did the last lot  ;) RR
  4. 3141 wrote:One more picture Where did you get the protectors from? RR
  5. Matress if you have one the tub is pretty light. RR
  6. Matress if you have one the tub is pretty light. RR
  7. [quote=thebrookster]Two things spring to mind here, one have you got the correct valves?  Sounds daft I know, but correct order is as follows: Rear of engine (cyl 4) E I I E E I I E Front of engine] Did that once in my youth timed perfectly to the exhaust valve, doh. RR
  8. Thought you were supposed to test the shell pre-load with feeler gauges, thats what Des Hammill suggests & he's a good engine builder & a good chunty read. http://www.bookfinder.com/dir/i/How_to_Blueprint_and_Build_a_4-Cylinder_Engine_Short_Block_for_High_Performance/1874105855/ RR
  9. Gt6s wrote: What are you using the twin SU's modified into throttle bodies ? Yes fuel return needs to be unrestricted, failing on this results in overly high pressure at low rpm, resulting in high fueling at low speed, unnessesary map complications. How do I know this ? You want the return to be a bigger bore than the pressure line, same as hydraulic circuits. RR
  10. Is your car LHD? if so the manifold will be different & better as the steering column will not be in the way, RR
  11. 666 wrote: 65mm from back plate to front plate Thanks mate. RR
  12. 666 wrote:I used webers for years now no isue at all easy to tune and set lots power good on fuel unless you want to go fast and then they use every drop of fuel very fast, you would need tr6 take off for heater and chop it down abit. How deep are your K&N's? RR
  13. Have you develped any new oil leaks? RR
  14. Think i have an old set spare if your desperate. RR
  15. Body colour, got the paint factor to mix up some high temp paint in signal red.
  16. 1704 wrote:Have a look at the Park Lane site, I've just recovered my seats in vinyl - £99.00 post free, see if the special offer is still on. Covers only I already had some foams last year from Owen. 8) Park Lane, good bloke, good quality. RR
  17. Just re-read the whole thread, your doing really well Scott, its all down hill from now on. RR
  18. 2504 wrote:Loving the Restoration Saga so far John!  :) Your cars gonna be a stunner when it done, and you've picked the best colour i think for a GT6, French blue!  ;) Oohhh a Sunbeam Tiger, Truly lovely! is it a Mk1 with the 4.3 V8 or the Super Rare Mk2 with the 4.8??  ::) Jordan 1966 Mk1 with the 260cu V8 :-) I won't clutter up this BB with Sunbeam stuff, but you can follow the restoration here if you like. http://www.sunbeamtiger.co.uk/index2.htm
  19. I've already bust my budget just buying this burnt out Tiger.
  20. Well impressed mate, it took me 17 years to do the same to mine. I've another one in the garage to restore if you fancy something to keep you busy. Cheers RR
  21. It'll be worth it in the end, just don't get too disinchanted by the rust monster. RR
  22. 1381 wrote:I have one of these, never thought of doing the trunnions with it. My method is a grease gun stored upside down in a bucket, as it doesn't leak if stored like that! I do the same :-)
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