GT6 M

Be wary using 3,8 - 1/2inch stuff, as the holes in the onions are smaller than the oil feed holes to the pump / filter. try and make your fittings in 5/8th, so the actusl hole in the fittings is 1/2 inch at best. far too many have been put on with too small a connector opening. M

No probs with Firefox browser John. But I tll ye, get there and have a look, I would not have thowt it possible to make a floor, boot, and NOT to be able to tell the difference to an OE item and thee,s things been done with a Hammer and Chisel,!!!!!! truely amazind what hes done with a hammer. he wants to sell em on over here, make a fortune for stuff that good, and that thick a steel too. M

Nope not after market OE stuff, about 8 years old. new AE ones were just the same style inside. M

A Merc too !!! original discs. and replacements were same shape inside. never seen vented like that, all i seen ev a spiral form M

My Marra  Rod, has had a pulsing brake pedal for a few days, and a noise to gaa with it. so got at it, and found this. a little scored,, front back side Inside,!!!! never seen this before, seen craks, but never this not a preety sight. M

Bruce, thats what I was saying about the inside of chassis be full of crap. that crap hold moisture,so adds to prob. bang all owa with a hammer to get it off, then get it out the chassis, bet ye did nae think it going to be as bad,!!! M

already catered for,  :) car on a lean, jacked up that much, front wheel of the ground. rear veiw drivers side camber, with car tilted passenger side, it is quite effective. M

Nick you a brave man putting those sill trims on. My last GT had em on, and they are rot makers. you need to keep em well drained, well rust inhibited, just my experiance of em Ohh nice to see you joined the illuminated heater control club. If ye want to be really up market, then put a light into the glove box as well, its so easy to find stuff int dark M

jcarruthers wrote:But— we want camber change— yes? ??????, pray tell why Sir James.

Just for you m Boy, here ye are I used a bit of wood the same length as half the spring, and moved the bottom bit in / oot /up  / doon, untill I got some where where I wanted I could not get it perfect with this, but the spring took care of the odd degree out on the car, as stated before. its maybe a crude way of dooing it, but I like shed  tune  fiddlin ways.  :) :) NOTE, the full bump,and Droop settings on this mock up, are at least 2-3 inches moer travel than what can be got on the car, due to chassis and shocker restrictions. So these figs, would have been less,if done to actual movement ont car, follow,!!! Also these wernt final figs got, but no far off. it ran to quite a few pages of trial an error. but easy whenst on a bench set up. and this was an early set up, as I ended up wid the lower link  nearly 14 inches lang as opposed to 11 3/4 on here. M

gt one is 14 inches early, the latest ones were i think 1/2 inch smaller and also got a thicker feel to it. there a nice one on flea bay at the minute, at the moment its as the wee birdie sings, so get a bargain!! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121002368837?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2648 M

I cant be sure, but I think Karl changed the early version, after I had a chat with him. 2nd much better now,  said he was wanting to keep it standard as much as possible, so the same mounts can still be used on a GT So going by what he said it seems lodgical too keep lower links and location spots for em. Mr Arachnid, not if the roto spring is used, as it is the one reason that with longer lower links, the camber change is 0 as the spring actually bends inwards,so taking top link with it. with oot the spring , you will have about 1 deg neg on bump,and 1.5  deg positive on droop going by my mock up i made. come on Keith, bung some pics up Pleeeeeese,so us folk  with  a tinkerous disposition :) Myself, Im giving the BMW diff set up some serious thought again. the idea of 32 mph x 1000 rpms in  OD top is a bigg allure M

Just a thought Keith, are you aware the upright is angled doon wards about 3 degs, this to give castor So you need to really keep this angle. M

Sorrt to disagree Alec, but I dont think you can helicoil 3/16th plate very weel. best thing to doo, take them out,  they are held in by folds of metal flaps, only need to bent em back and they can be took out, whenst out, 2 options 1, make new ones 2, weld nuts on 3, weld extra plate on 4, plate and nuts. I went for  extra nuts,  for the simple reason that when tapped oot bigger, there is less thread per inch,so the thread strip even easier. thicker plate causes probs, as it wont fit where the other come oot, to my annoyance. so nuts and new plate / weld, will be best bet. M

Bruce, thats the prob wid these old cars, its where ne one sees that ye got to look hard at. you gotta get as much as ye can out,or as Nick says,it,ll come back. the bonnet has got a few dubble panels,or folds, same as doors,tail gate, its where thees folds are, moisture gits in,and starts to play,wid the results shown on the bonnet ends, you can chop it all off,and weld a thicker bit of stip steel in, this will add strangth to this area then weld sheet steel to it, and fill, but,the flat panels warp like mad when heat gets on em. Whilst ye at it, I would be looking very very closely at the screen pillars, they rot frae inside to oot, and ye prob fin a big rust patch at bottom inside corner where rubber hides it. and there is very little strengh left in the pillar,   I pushed a Spitty one day Dad had got,  shoulder on the pillar , and the pillar bent, as there was nothing left of it. the rear hatch, will have rust on the inside,inside the rubber area,  try and fill the whole thing up wid a rust killer,and let t soak for ages,then fill wid wax oil, keep it warm, and see it ooze thru places., then drain, and it should be ok. dont drain it off, then it runs oot when sun heats it, and it come oot the two open holes at top, all owa what ye got inside, how doo I no this, !!! Also have a good look INSIDE the heater box,  in the engine bay. this is known for rotting thru at the bottom,and then wata gets into car. mostly over looked this bit. you say chassis looks ok,  dont look, bang, wid a big ammer, as this gives a good indication of the steels  health. look closely around the dip where the drive shaft is, water collects in this dip,and rots it away Bang chassis all over, and then shake,or turn upside doon, and listen to the rust running aboot, cut hole in rear end, where tow eyes are,  and stand on end, and bang away some moer, this will loosen o the scale rust,and it will fall oot the wol that you made. its a real night mare, but rust in hidden places takes some getting out, its a constant fight, if any left to carry on playing.   good luck. M

    Quoted from tengah spitfire     Impressive     Also while on the subject of width     Bjorn Walderguard use to use 3" wide tyres with just 15 PSI on his Rally Porsche in the snow.     He told me the narrow tyre cuts through the snow and the lower pressures flexes the tread more so stopping the snow from compacting in the tread, another main cause of traction loss. the Trials cars I have a go in, run 5 PSI max,on skinny tyres, and go where even a 4x4 can go,!!! M

Such a system can be made to be very safe.  If you are seriously skeptical of this, then you should avoid aircraft. Says Julian. BUT, div aircraft no have 2 back up systems,(think)(think)(think) M

this is the latest version of the  modded back end. just incase any yan intrested. M

come on Keith, get some pics up. ;) M

339 wrote: Keith I have dumped my AVO's for GAZ and find them far superior.  The dampening rates on the GAZ I find much more suitable to the GT6.  GAZ will make you a pair of height adjustable units to suit if you give them the open and closed dimensions and they are very reasonably priced which helps!!!!!  If you use AVO's be prepared to change the bushes every 1000miles!!!!!  GAZ use full width bushes. True, I find both the spax,and the avo,s too hard for the rear. BUT, AVO will, at no extra cost if they are got from them alter the valving,so settings become softer at the bottom, but loose oot at the top I donrt think any yan has used either on a GT / Spitty, over 4, as it gets rock ard used ones can be altered too, but was told it would be 12£ +vat + postage basicly a rebuilt damper,or refurbished. the bush question is easily resolved, the same bush thats used in the spring eyes,the inner pivots at rear will fit. outer steel case,and inner steel bush. Cols on my line o tinking with the one sided coil owas. maybe some thing to consider ,!!! any thing with a rear radius arm thats short, will give rear steer. so maybe some thing else t consider. M M

quite easy really, you aint got much doon wards travel, as the drive shaft hits the chassis. So measure the down ward movement,and then the top,{ where you think it will go to } and you got what you after. looking at the first pic,you can get a good idea,  You really need adjustables too. I would have thought about 170 ish lbs would have been OK but all depends on how stiff you want it to be. the more upreet the spring,the less poundage that ye need. as a guide the GT frunts are 200ish as standard, BUT,the springs are inclined so much,that they loose effect. As  Alec says, speak to spring manufacturers, give em the weight of car at rear. and they will have charts to say wats wat. one thing that seems to quirk me mind is twist, due to having the coilowa on one side only, maybe just me, but would think two be better to even it up like what the Jag rear end has got any picks to put up.  we all like pics on here. ;) as im sure a few others be intrested, I am, as any thing tinkered  wid is of intrest to me. :) ohh here is the other pic that did,nt come up. M

If you aint got the geometry reet, then there be even more camber change than original set up and also the top wish bone has got to be very stiff,to stop twist. the rear spring actually helps alott in camber reduction,and also location. If ye going some where along this line, it may be better. as its still got top spring location!!! or this set up,  this is an early set up, latest uses a whisbone from diff to link adjustment. prob is,the bushes are not solid inside,and also alot of links/ joints to make move ment. M

they are these wid a large mark up. been around a while now, were sold originally by a bloke int US http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/Car-Parts-/14239/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=triumph+conrods m

some 185 70 15 tyres for sale, good  price at the moment. grab a bargain !!! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRAND-NEW-X-KUMHO-SPORT-ECSTA-V700-185-70-15-V70A-89V-k60-MEDIUM-TRACK-DAY-TYRES-/251165015498?pt=UK_Cars_Tyres_RL&hash=item3a7a99fdca

Col, it was the land rovers, they had a separate stand alone yan. I looked into this, putting it onto diff end, so having 2 od,s as I got one in the shed, actually got it to doo same thing onto the auto PI i got of Dad, but it would no go on easy. this set up would have given 33 mph x 1000 rpms. would fit, BUTT, needed some work on chassis body area, so did nae carry on. but any one already chopping the car aboot,  then its a go go. M